McCulloch Chain Saws

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NMC-10 stroker

Listen up MC-10 based Mac lovers. Super 44A/55A, 1-70/80 through 1-72/82. Here's an IPL for the stroker kit.

http://rearenginekarts.com/MC10POWERIPL.PDF

This actually sparks a question I have about this particular engine, but I may save it for a new thread concerning the kart engines where the McCulloch, Power Products, West Bend, and Homelite kart engines can be discussed.

I'd be interested in the thread.
 
I know heimannm has a lot of McCulloch Chain Saws, as well as myself, I was wondering if anybody else has a few McCullochs in their collection of Chain Saws, and are they for work, or for display. Thanks for your input. Bruce.



Well I just added another McCulloch sign.



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super 250

does anyone know if a 1-81hd piston will fit in the super 250? i looked and it has the same bore and stroke.
thanks
 
I know its not classic iron like you guys usually banter around in this forum, but I've got a Mcculloch Pro Mac 440 VC, & I was wondering if anybody in here had any info concerning the size of the saw? All I can find anywhere is that is was made around 1986 in an Italian factory, (Acres Internet) & I found an IPL on Order Tree for it, but no other info to be found anywhere.
 
10-10s

I just got on ebay and typed in "10-10s" and the first thing on there was a mcculloch pro mac 10-10s in kinda dirty condition but all there. I think the bid was at around $10.50 or something like that. Who ever was wanting one, here's your chance..
 
McCulloch 550

I have a partial 550. It needs a flywheel and coil and shroud. What saws have interchangable parts?
Thanks
 
I got another 2014 and a 3516 in the pile of saws last month. Noticed right away they have a lot of crank endplay like the 2014 I raised from the dead.

Like a 1/16"!!! good grief gertie.

Is this just they way it is for cranks running in roller or needle bearings? I wouldn't expect any measurable endplay in radail ball bearing cranks.

Poulan tophandles have lots of crank endplay also I noticed.

T.T.T.:computer2:
 
The PM55 I have is a points set up.


CT

Mine looks old enough to have a points ignition. I just bought it a few months ago and haven't taken it apart so I wouldn't know. Somewhere in the McCulloch thread someone said they had electronic ignition, maybe they changed in mid-production or something. If mine has points I'm gonna leave it alone. It revs pretty well.
 
Just a silly thought, but looking on ebay for that 10-10s I came across another 10-10 which had a left side starter but on the right side he had the bar cover housing of one with a right side starter. Was just thinking it's probably possible to have both right and left side starters!
 
Just a silly thought, but looking on ebay for that 10-10s I came across another 10-10 which had a left side starter but on the right side he had the bar cover housing of one with a right side starter. Was just thinking it's probably possible to have both right and left side starters!

It is. Do it for poops and giggles if you feel the need. You'd just have to swap a LH start flywheel (which has the LH start pawls, springs, and pins) onto a RH start 10-10, in addition to swapping on the flywheel cover with the LH starter assembly. Alternatively, you could swap a RH start clutch (the pawls are on the clutch hub on the LH start Macs) and starter-equipped clutch cover onto a LH start Mac. Either way, you end up with a silly looking dual-starter McCulloch...:D

Same can be done on RH start big old Macs. I mocked up my 790 in this fashion, just for giggles. Should have shot a pic for fun. Didn't bother swapping the flywheel (or putting pawls, pivot pins, and springs on my flywheel as it's drilled fer 'em) because I've decided to keep that saw RH start after much deliberation. Turns out, a RH start McCulloch feels more natural to this southpaw afterall...
 
I have one e-Bay 10-10 that came to me with both LH and RH starters, don't remember if they were both functional or not.

I also recall seeing a video (probably from Australia) of a 10 Series saw with both LH and RH starters, and the electric start as well; three starting options.

There was an incredible amount of interchangeability with the old McCulloch saws...

Adding the LH starter to the 1-70/80 or 700/800 saws does require a different flywheel cover (like the ones from the SP105/125) as most of the stock units do not have provision for mounting the starter on the left hand side. There are a few old 1-70 Series type covers with the bosses that are not machined, I think I have one saw on the shelf like that.

Mark
 
I have one e-Bay 10-10 that came to me with both LH and RH starters, don't remember if they were both functional or not.

I also recall seeing a video (probably from Australia) of a 10 Series saw with both LH and RH starters, and the electric start as well; three starting options.

There was an incredible amount of interchangeability with the old McCulloch saws...

Adding the LH starter to the 1-70/80 or 700/800 saws does require a different flywheel cover (like the ones from the SP105/125) as most of the stock units do not have provision for mounting the starter on the left hand side. There are a few old 1-70 Series type covers with the bosses that are not machined, I think I have one saw on the shelf like that.

Mark

The cover on my 790, as well as one sent to me by Lee H. both have the bosses cast into the cover.....including 'dimples to aid in drilling the holes, and 'nut holders' (LOL) on the inside of the housing under the bosses, and the 'groove' around the air intake opening that the starter 'legs' index on.

Since the older saws of this engine series didn't have LH start, I figure that these cover castings were used at that time (with the propper machining) on the '2 man' saws, generators, welders, pumps, and other equipment that used these engines (but had a gearbox on the other end that wouldn't accomidated the starter units put on the RH start Mac saws).

the cover used on the 550/Super 550 and the 105/125 saws is a bit different (but could be used) as it has the kill switch mounted in it, unlike the 700/800/1-70/80 saws which have the switch mounted in the rear handle ahead of your thumb. Also, these covers have the rubber plug cover arrangement, while the 700/800/1-70/80 saws have the hinged cylinder/plug cover/hatch thingee. Again, I'm sure either style cover could be made to work just fine. The 105/125 covers seem to have more substantial 'bosses' cast into them than the other covers to.

I've also noticed that my 550 cylinder has a boss for a comp release cast into it (but not machined or utilized), while the 790's in my possession do not. Interesting. I'm also having some issues with the flatback carb on the 550. Primes, starts, and idles great. Won't rev, and acts like it's starving, no matter what I do with the HS and/or LS needles however. Gotta tinker with it more. May end up getting frustrated enough that I just swap on a Tilly HL...
 
You may have to pull the large (1") welch plug and see what's going on underneath. My other 550 has the check valve, and for some unexplained reason it stuck on me last year when I was preparing the saw to take to the PNW GTG that I never managed to get to. That saw had worked fine the few times I'd used in prior, and has worked well since dismantling the carburetor and unsticking it with some carburetor cleaner.

Yours will either have the same sort of check valve, or a "capillary seal" made from sintered metal and it sounds to me like it is either plugged or blocked. Last time I checked, Bob Johnson had the 1" welch plugs, or I'm sure you could find some elsewhere just as easily.

If you look at the profiles of the starter housings, the 1-40 thru 550 saws has quite a different look than the 1-70 thru SP125 saws. I think JJ has referred to the latter as "Super Series" engines before. If I'm not mistaken, the "Super Series" covers are not as deep as the others either.

SP125
167206d1294275477-mcculloch-sp125-2-2-jpg


550
167207d1294275537-mcculloch-550-0-jpg


Mark
 
I'm also having some issues with the flatback carb on the 550. Primes, starts, and idles great. Won't rev, and acts like it's starving, no matter what I do with the HS and/or LS needles however. Gotta tinker with it more. May end up getting frustrated enough that I just swap on a Tilly HL...

When talking to Bob Johnson, when rebuilding the 797, he had recommended shooting some PB blaster in through the HS hole to help break up and clean any debris in there. He was saying the PB blaster will clean without hurting the primer. Might not work, but it might too. Wont hurt.
 

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