McCulloch Chain Saws

[leeha]

My lastest buy......

I know i really shouldn't be buying more Macs..need the money for house renovations and an trip to OZ to check the place out for our
intended move at Xmas....But it's a super 250..i missed out on the last two...
Just arranging the freight now.

Not a bad Super 250 at all. Very nice.
You don't see many with the yellow top
cover without the side holes.

Good score.


Lee

 

[turtle561]

here's your pic

 

[tomdcoker]

The 125's will have allen bolts.
It's the kart motors that have
the slined bolts and require the
special wrench.




Lee

I havwe 2 125 parts saws and they have the splined bolts. Tom

 

[Teddy.Scout]

Not a bad Super 250 at all. Very nice.
You don't see many with the yellow top
cover without the side holes.

Good score.


Lee

Some one mentioned the yellow cover s were Canadian distributed models.
Not sure though.

 

[Teddy.Scout]

I havwe 2 125 parts saws and they have the splined bolts. Tom

Hey Tom,
Want to trade off a piston?

 

[tomdcoker]

Hey Tom,
Want to trade off a piston?

One of the pistons had something to go through the motor and ruin it. The other one has the rings stuck in the grove and I have not been able to get them out. Tom

 

[Goball]

One of the pistons had something to go through the motor and ruin it. The other one has the rings stuck in the grove and I have not been able to get them out. Tom

You might try soaking the piston in Automatic Transmission Fluid or Carburetor Gunk.

 

[pafire]

Thanks:msp_smile:

 

[rwoods]

I still need help.

Surely someone knows how to remove the wrist pin from a 101B rod and piston. I have tried a bolt and small nut (nut sized to slip through the needle bearings) and have tighten the bolt against flat steel inserted between the bolt end and the piston wall but the tension feels too great. I don't want to bust the piston. The cylinder is .050 overbore already and I haven't located a replacement piston. Thanks, Ron

 

[rwoods]

I havwe 2 125 parts saws and they have the splined bolts. Tom

Tom, I believe you are on the money. According to my IPLs for the 101B, 125 and 125C all use the same spline bolt #110720. Ron

 

[54stude]

Surely someone knows how to remove the wrist pin from a 101B rod and piston. I have tried a bolt and small nut (nut sized to slip through the needle bearings) and have tighten the bolt against flat steel inserted between the bolt end and the piston wall but the tension feels too great. I don't want to bust the piston. The cylinder is .050 overbore already and I haven't located a replacement piston. Thanks, Ron

The piston pin could have been installed cold into a hot piston, and it could be a press fit.

You could call a engine rebuilder to ask about a damage free way to take it apart.
Good luck!

 

[Teddy.Scout]

Besides the bearings, seals and hardware being easy to get!
The pistons just suck putting in and taking out!
I always come out with no finger nails!

 

[tomdcoker]

You might try soaking the piston in Automatic Transmission Fluid or Carburetor Gunk.

It has been soking for about 2 months. Tom

 

[rwoods]

Besides the bearings, seals and hardware being easy to get!
The pistons just suck putting in and taking out!
I always come out with no finger nails!

With the removable head getting the piston in and out is no problem. But getting the wrist pin out with a solid side piston has me stumped. I have checked the kart sites that sell McCulloch tools but the tools all appear to be drivers to install bearings and pins not remove them. Ron

 

[rwoods]

It has been soking for about 2 months. Tom

Tom, have you tried a sharp chisel on the gap end of the ring. You may be able to break the ring and take it out a piece at a time. Of course you need to be very careful not to mess up the groove. Ron

 

[54stude]

With the removable head getting the piston in and out is no problem. But getting the wrist pin out with a solid side piston has me stumped. I have checked the kart sites that sell McCulloch tools but the tools all appear to be drivers to install bearings and pins not remove them. Ron

Could you expand a "spreading type" concrete anchor into the inside diameter pin, and then use a slide hammer on it?

 

[tomdcoker]

Tom, have you tried a sharp chisel on the gap end of the ring. You may be able to break the ring and take it out a piece at a time. Of course you need to be very careful not to mess up the groove. Ron

Yes, I have tried that.
It is the thin ring type and anything you use to pry it out is small and it will slip off. It has been soaking in P B blaster for about 2 months or longer.
I also used some Kroil at one time. the Kroil is highly rated, but it did not work.
I think kerosene will probably work better, but I never remember to get some when I go to town. Tom

 

[nallac]

Thanks Lee and turtle561 for the pic.

I should add i paid $100nz $82 US for it...


heres the blurb from the auction,
McCULLUCH SUPER 250 CHAIN SAW WITH GOOD 24" SOLID TIP BAR AND 404 CHAIN. CHIN SAW NEDDS CARB OVERHAUL AS MOTOR ONLY STARTS WITH PETROL PUT DOWN ITS THROAT. WOULD BE GOOD FOR SPARES OR COLLECTOR NO BRAkE ON THIS OLD MODEL SO REALLY JUST LOOKING FOR A SALE ON BAR AND CHAIN WILL THROW IN SAW.

Bloody PC world, we can't advertise a Chainsaw over here as a Chainsaw if it doesn't have a chain brake.....
It looks like a chainsaw, sounds like a chainsaw, cuts like a chainsaw but can't be one with out a Friggin Chainbrake.

Hopefully only a carb kit and clean up and gap of the points and she will be a goer.


Why did they have to change how to put a pic up???.
Hey kyle i tried putting the pic up your way [im g]image url [/ img] took the gaps out and pasted in the pic url but no go?..

 

[rwoods]

Could you expand a "spreading type" concrete anchor into the inside diameter pin, and then use a slide hammer on it?

That is certainly an idea to consider. I bet however there are a few folks on this thread that have been down this road and will speak up once they catch up. I can wait as I have too much at stake to screw up the piston. Like my other stumps, this will probably result in one of those duh moments for me once the proper procedure is explained. Ron

 

[Goball]

The piston pin could have been installed cold into a hot piston, and it could be a press fit.

You could call a engine rebuilder to ask about a damage free way to take it apart.
Good luck!

I have no experience on that particular saw but have removed press fit P/pins on a number occasions. Primary thing to do is to make sure you have a backing for the piston. I made one by drilling a hole in a piece of hardwood the same size (a little bit big is OK - smaller no good) as the piston OD. Drill the hole on the "with the grain" side so that you're pushing into the endgrain. Saw the wood piece in half so that the piston will lie comfortably in it and drill a hole slightly larger than the P/Pin so that when you're pushing the pin out, it has somewhere to go. I use my vise as a press using a long socket slightly smaller that than the pin. If/when the pin starts to move using "reasonable" force on the vice, spray some penetrant/WD40 into into the socket side. If there evidence of carbon in the piston boss, clean it off as best you can. Next turn the piston over and push the pin back in and a little bit more to expose the bore. Clean the carbon from that side. You might have to turn the piston over a few times till is obvious that the pin is going to move continuously past the eye of the con-rod. I take no responsibilty for any problems or broken pieces.