McCulloch Chain Saws

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Thanks Todd, good info. So if acres is correct a 7-10 should be a 2" bore? I'll see if I can get a measurement on it.

By lower strap, I assume you mean the strap coming from the back of the handle up and underneath? I'll look but I think there were 2 screws under there.

No worries if its a mutt, as long as its a good running mutt and I think it should be, besides it was a cheap mutt. :ices_rofl:

I might get time this weekend to do some on it.
 
Cool saw Mark. I have a 7-10 fully adjustable SDC, and I like to run it as well. It has been on the shelf for awhile, need to get it out.

Look forward to seeing your saw hogging in some wood.
 
Yeah, Mark, it should be a 2" bore. If you have the carb off, it'll be easy to check...much easier than pulling the muffler which involves pulling the whole saw apart!
You are correct on the strap. I see it is steel, and most of the early ones with RH start were aluminum. All the 3 screw straps I have seen are steel though.
Most likely, the handle assy. you have came off a factory equipped SDC saw. The NOS replacement kit I have has the slot for the deadman throttle lock out and lots more holes for the screws and dowel pins for the E start models. A one size fits all of sorts.
I guarantee you it'll put a grin on your face with a good chain and short bar. I'm waiting on an 8 pin .325 sprocket for my 5-10 project with a 16" to take advantage of the high RPM capability. Not as much torque as a 245, but it should impress if you let the saw do the work and keep it in the powerband.
Let me know if you need any odds and ends, as I probably have it.
 
A 7-10 WTF?

Hey Mac guys, I picked up a 7-10 yesterday and have a question. This carb box is drilled for 2 sets of carb adjusting screws? Never seen this. Wonder if the tank halves have been mixed and matched? The bottom ones have been plugged with some type of nylon rivets?

Mark H has always been high on his 7-10 so I picked this one up to see for myself. It was a ebay deal and the seller was only 4 miles from my house so the $37 bid got it with no shipping involved. The auction showed only about 90lbs compression but he said it started and run good so I went ahead and picked it up.

I asked him how many times he pulled it over and he said two or three times. :msp_smile: I got it home and rechecked it and it was blowing almost 160lbs. :ices_rofl: It runs alright but not good, carb aint adjusting well at all and probably needs a kit. I'll get it up and running soon and see how much snot its got.

Got the recoil off as it had a couple screws broken off in it, what a PITA drilling those out. As you can see I got one done with one more to go. I see Acres list these as 15.6lbs, I dont think there that heavy though.

What do you guys think of this double carb screw setup?

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I'm not sure but I think I may have one similar to that one. It's probably a 10-10 because I only have one 700 and several 10-10s. I guess it's possible they made it to accommodate 2 different carburetors?
 
This is what my 7-10 looks like:

large.jpg


I might add that this is a very snappy and powerful saw, even for it's weight. I dunno what the compression is, but it is very difficult to start without the decomp.
 
Mark - I think you'll like the 7-10, pretty snappy little saw.

whatscooking - The Power Mac 6 was before the Mini Mac; not as many were made but it is claimed to be a much better saw. One old McCulloch dealer/tree service guy I knew said it was the best bucket saw ever.

Mark

Snappy? I thought you said they were full of snot? :hmm3grin2orange:

Oh well snappy is good, but I'm going to put a 28" on it and see if its still snappy. If I ever get time!



This is what my 7-10 looks like:

large.jpg


I might add that this is a very snappy and powerful saw, even for it's weight. I dunno what the compression is, but it is very difficult to start without the decomp.

Thanks for that, still confusing even more now since my top cover has the idle screw in it and yours is in the bottom. Looks like it will be easier to adjust on the top one though.

I think I'll put some tape on the bottom holes and fill them with JB weld from the backside to plug them off for good.
 
i got my cp125 up and running tonight, even made a few cuts wow!!! it is by far the loudest saw i have ever used and had great power:rock: Now i have to find a new clutch spring the chain would not rest so i pulled the clutch an found the broken spring. does any one know the part # or what will work?
 
This is what my 7-10 looks like:

large.jpg


I might add that this is a very snappy and powerful saw, even for it's weight. I dunno what the compression is, but it is very difficult to start without the decomp.

Is that screw in the bottom half of the tank/handle the idle screw? If so, it looks like you got yet another variation. Ron
 
Is that screw in the bottom half of the tank/handle the idle screw? If so, it looks like you got yet another variation. Ron

My serial is 11-11115 or some such. A buncha ones ending in a 5.

Here's that compression:

[video=youtube;f47ha3OHY7c]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f47ha3OHY7c[/video]

And it is ridiculously loud!!!!!!!!!
 
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wyk, that is awesome... Can't hardly pull her over!! Funny watching you try to get her to fall on her own, then tossing it around on that recoil rope with feeble attempts to get her to turn over... :D

That's more or less what my 850 does when you hang it from the recoil rope. Though if you let it sit on the recoil for long enough (few minutes) she will drop a little, stop, and hang there for another few minutes. It's possible it's still not broken all the way in yet, and given these yellow things last so long, that's exactly what I suspect...


ModifiedMark, nice 7-10... looks like one of those 'hey, I found all of these parts in the back... I'm gonna build something.' saws, as mactodd mentioned in his post... looking forward to a video of that one. :cheers:



No soda blasting of the 790 parts done today. Did the front brakes on a friend's van, but I have tomorrow to work the saw parts. I also improved the design of the soda blaster, and will include a video of it operating and how it picks up the soda.

I'm thinking I need to get the 790 thread going again... probably when I get the cylinder and piston back from the machine shop, hopefully sometime next week.
 
small macs

Hi guys! A little foray for me from old poulans to newer small macs. Got a couple in a trade, neither needs much it appears. One is labeled a 3216, the other is a refurb that looks near identical.

One needs the purge/primer bulb and lines, the other needs the H screw for the carb, and some of the plastic is cracked, previous owner did a duct tape job on bridging what is missing, lol!

Anyway, best place to get parts? The bay wants like 12 and shipping for a primer bulb, seems rather excessive, or is that around what I should expect? And the fuel lines in general, size? Cross ref for some cheaper generic parts?

Sorry these aren't old six cube monsters to talk about, but hey, they both pop and fire OK as is, might as well get them going good.

Neither one looks to have been used much at all, original looking chains, bars look near new, very little crud under the plastic and who the heck designed it to come apart like that? HAHAHAHA Screw happy... the one with the crumbly lines and the chunk where the primer bulb is just looks like an ethanol victim. Technically I think I could slap together what I have for one good runner, but would rather fix both of them..just because. Going to be raining all week and want to get my ducks in a row for some repairs, to grab some parts maybe in town if they are common, those two macs and my third poulan 3400 just needs new lines. The macs though..no idea who works on them around here, so might have to be order online from a sponsor or something.

thanks in advance, guru-sans!
 
The 7-10 I got has a chain brake on it. It looks nearly identical to my Pro 10-10A except for the muffler. I don't hear much about them while there is ample reading on the PM700. Wonder why the difference in popularity. I am thinking of using a 20-24" bar.

I think the PM700 is electronic ignition, and the 7-10 is points...not sure if that matters.

Thanks Todd, good info. So if acres is correct a 7-10 should be a 2" bore? I'll see if I can get a measurement on it.

By lower strap, I assume you mean the strap coming from the back of the handle up and underneath? I'll look but I think there were 2 screws under there.

No worries if its a mutt, as long as its a good running mutt and I think it should be, besides it was a cheap mutt. :ices_rofl:

I might get time this weekend to do some on it.

Is that screw in the bottom half of the tank/handle the idle screw? If so, it looks like you got yet another variation. Ron


There were dozens of variations of 7-10's made over the years. They will have a 2" bore (stock). I've seen three different AF cover decals, two different carbs (single and dual needle SDC's), saws with and without chainbrakes, different ignitions, different comp release/kill switch/throttle lock setups (Mark there's a 7-10 variant with a 'multi-function' button similar to what's on a 245SA), and both chromed bores and iron liners. I'm sure there are many more minor variations that I haven't seen. My saw has an AF decal like Mark's, a two needle carb, no chainbrake, a black clutch cover, a points ignition, a 'normal' comp release valve in the head, the side-button throttle lock, sliding kill switch, and an iron cylinder liner. Check out this website. Find your serial number prefix (should be a 10, 11, 12, or 13....followed by a hyphen and your SN) and model # in the index. Click the correct listing, and you'll have your exact IPL. Scroll through to see the dozens of 7-10 IPL's.....

"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"
 
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Manuals

Mark

I got the manuals.

Thank you :bowdown: Thank you :bowdown: Thank you :bowdown:

There's a ton of great information their and I realy appreciate it.

Thanks

ODW
 
Hi guys! A little foray for me from old poulans to newer small macs. Got a couple in a trade, neither needs much it appears. One is labeled a 3216, the other is a refurb that looks near identical.

One needs the purge/primer bulb and lines, the other needs the H screw for the carb, and some of the plastic is cracked, previous owner did a duct tape job on bridging what is missing, lol!

Anyway, best place to get parts? The bay wants like 12 and shipping for a primer bulb, seems rather excessive, or is that around what I should expect? And the fuel lines in general, size? Cross ref for some cheaper generic parts?

Sorry these aren't old six cube monsters to talk about, but hey, they both pop and fire OK as is, might as well get them going good.

Neither one looks to have been used much at all, original looking chains, bars look near new, very little crud under the plastic and who the heck designed it to come apart like that? HAHAHAHA Screw happy... the one with the crumbly lines and the chunk where the primer bulb is just looks like an ethanol victim. Technically I think I could slap together what I have for one good runner, but would rather fix both of them..just because. Going to be raining all week and want to get my ducks in a row for some repairs, to grab some parts maybe in town if they are common, those two macs and my third poulan 3400 just needs new lines. The macs though..no idea who works on them around here, so might have to be order online from a sponsor or something.

thanks in advance, guru-sans!

My local lowes has those primer bulbs for a few bucks.
 
7-10

Modifiedmark

I posted this before but it seems timely to throw it in again.

View attachment 215767
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Video: [video]http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x467/OldWoodEye9/?action=view&current=MOV07-10McC.mp4[/video]

This is my 7-10. From the front of the oil tank out the bar measures 24 inches.

I think the video shows that it's pritty snappy.

ODW
 
My local lowes has those primer bulbs for a few bucks.

--thanks man! I wondered if they were common generic off the shelf ones or not. The fuel line I will try to just match up, got a few chunks that are intact enough to see if they can be sized against a roll of tygon at the local dealers.

I just didn't want to have to order an official big bucks OEM part.
 

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