McCulloch Chain Saws

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I'll keep that in mind. I am not going to tear into it till I finish my two other projects currently all tore apart. I am playing in the Big Mac world. A SP 125 and a 380.
Thanks
 
I also had a local Batteries Plus make a set for my 3-10E, nothing more than 5 sets of two cells each in a sleeve, I connected them together in the saw myself by soldering leads to the batteries. I am glad I did it and for a couple of years they held a charge and would start the saw when they were charged up, but they are now failing and I can only get it to start when it is connected to a car/truck battery with a set of "jumper cables" I rigged up.

My store charge me nearly $80 for the set so I won't be doing that again. I understand other stores will put them together for a lot less.

Mark

Have heard the cheapest way to buy these rechargeable batteries is inside the battery pack of a Chinese rechargeable drill.
 
I have a N.O.S. muffler for a cp125. Its brand new, never been ran. Would anyone be interested in it in trade for a sp125 muffler?
 
A MM30 finally got the best of me. Had the thing apart 5x to do carb work. Saw kept flooding out. Change to another rebuilt carb and not enough gas. Go to a 3rd carb and its flooding out again. Flipped it in the parts bin.....NEXT!:clap:

P.S....spark was hot as a bastard, shocked the crap outta me and compression is good. dont even tell me how to fix it because the only way its coming apart again is for parts on another saw!

Nevermind this post, it was bothering me all night but i went at it one last time with success!
 
MINI carb adjusting issue

I got the MM30 running but it doesn't want to take a tune. Opened both H and L screws 1 full turn, cranked down on the idle screw a bit to get it to run and it started right up.

After warming it up with a full tank of mix I proceeded to adjust the L screw, leaned it a bit till it started to break up then backed off and richened it a bit until it would run like crap and then put it in the middle somewhere, only it never idled like crap when rich so i just took a educated guess.

Then i went to H screw, revved the death out of it until it was screaming, backed off a 1/8 of a turn and got the familiar 4 stroking sound, nice.

At this point it would rev up with a little bog when initially hitting the throttle so back to the L screw to richen it up. Now i cant find the spot on the screw where it has a clean take off to full revs. I have to throttle it slowly and then when you are at full revs its fine, let off the trigger it dies.....WTF.

I set the idle so the chain doesn't walk, that's fine. It will idle. Get on the gas, throttle it up to a full rev then dies after you let go of the throttle. I dunno what else to do. Air filter is decent, its obviously getting enough fuel to run at high RPM. Maybe there is some crud left in the carb. Maybe im tuning wrong.......Any Ideas?
 
You need to let us know what the problem was, to aid others in resolving similar problems in the future.

Mark

I did another carb swap but the reason i think it was flooding out is because there was no fuel filter in the tank. In the tank of the mini's there is a rectangular shaped filter at the bottom approx 2" long. In the tank I had someone had cut the filter and only used a little piece of it.

The fuel pick up is at the bottom of the tank and I believe without that filter and a full tank of gas you are forcing the fuel into the carburetor, not sucking it. You need that filter! I swapped tanks with a decent looking filter and here I am with it running and now some carb issues:dizzy:
 
What if something got in the carb from running with no filter? That filter is a ----- to get out. I tried on a broken tank once just to see if it came out easy. Nope. Occasionally eBay has that filter.
 
Been working on the SP 125. I was wondering since I don't have a bar and chain for it. What bar and chain and rim should I get? I would prefer to go 3/8 .050 and something in the 30 ish length.
View attachment 264927
 
Been working on the SP 125. I was wondering since I don't have a bar and chain for it. What bar and chain and rim should I get? I would prefer to go 3/8 .050 and something in the 30 ish length.
View attachment 264927

On a big inch saw like these 125's i would go
either 404-.063 or 3/8-.063 Not sure i would
try .050 gauge. Not much meat on the driver
and you could risk braking a chain with that
much power. If you go with 3/8 try an 8 pin
rim. 404 either 7 pin or if your saw is healthy
go with an 8 pin rim.




Lee
 
Thanks for the info. The saw had a 8 pin 3/8 rim on it. It is pretty shot tho. I will have to do some searching. No .050 gage! 3/8 .063
I was going to put the clutch back on when it hit me. What do I want to do here?
 
Like Lee said, depends on the engine's health. My stocker blows 185psi and pulls a 4' bar's worth of. 404/.063 with an 8 and doesn't sweat.
 
I haven't actually tested the comp yet. It is for sure stock and has plenty of use. It's not scored and looks pretty good thru the exhaust. I don't plan on re ringing it yet. I prob won't run it much and not until next spring. I am far from ready to run. I have a list of parts to gather.
 
What if something got in the carb from running with no filter? That filter is a ----- to get out. I tried on a broken tank once just to see if it came out easy. Nope. Occasionally eBay has that filter.

Nah, carb was swapped out when I swaped the tank out with the good filter. Ill give it a go again tomorrow. Either the L adjustments are very sensitive or the L circuit is effed in the carb.


Wheres eccentric, hes like a tuning tard i mean wizard:D
 

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