McCulloch Chain Saws

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Nah, carb was swapped out when I swaped the tank out with the good filter. Ill give it a go again tomorrow. Either the L adjustments are very sensitive or the L circuit is effed in the carb.


Wheres eccentric, hes like a tuning tard i mean wizard:D

Hey now! That's what I call a backhanded compliment....:givebeer:

What condition are the crank seals in? Is the oiler diapragm in good shape? A vacuum leak would play hell with your idle mixture tuning. When you get it idling right, does it change idle speed/quality when you tip the saw to the left or right?
 
Hey now! That's what I call a backhanded compliment....:givebeer:

What condition are the crank seals in? Is the oiler diapragm in good shape? A vacuum leak would play hell with your idle mixture tuning. When you get it idling right, does it change idle speed/quality when you tip the saw to the left or right?

Not sure on the seals, I dont break em down that far. Its not worth it IMO. As far as I saw the idle was fine when it was just idling, after reving it up it would die instead of returning to an idle. Throttle responce was little to none, have to feather it up to get it to rev, im sure most of you know what I mean.
 
Hey now! That's what I call a backhanded compliment....:givebeer:

What condition are the crank seals in? Is the oiler diapragm in good shape? A vacuum leak would play hell with your idle mixture tuning. When you get it idling right, does it change idle speed/quality when you tip the saw to the left or right?

That's sure been my experience with vacuum leaks.

Learned that from The T wizard
 
Not sure on the seals, I dont break em down that far. Its not worth it IMO. As far as I saw the idle was fine when it was just idling, after reving it up it would die instead of returning to an idle. Throttle responce was little to none, have to feather it up to get it to rev, im sure most of you know what I mean.

I've had saws with vacuum leaks behave just like that (including the Mighty Homelite 750 that I recently replaced crank seals on). Didja do the 'tilt test' while it was idling?
 
I've had saws with vacuum leaks behave just like that (including the Mighty Homelite 750 that I recently replaced crank seals on). Didja do the 'tilt test' while it was idling?

I leaned over a bit and it was ok :D


I'll fire it up again and turn it on it's side and what not tomorrow, what am I looking to see/hear? Fast idle?
 
"I have a potty mouth":D

They are easy to work on, especially after you take em apart 10 times in a row.:dizzy:

They're even more fun when they decide to be dificult to the point where your boss calls back to the shop to find out why you're not getting through your day's workload...

Well, had a lot of success with them up until now. Can't win em all....I'm hitting the sack, I got a saw to tilt tomorrow:D

That doesn't work as an answer to the boss's call...:D
 
They're even more fun when they decide to be dificult to the point where your boss calls back to the shop to find out why you're not getting through your day's workload...



That doesn't work as an answer to the boss's call...:D


I can understand that but guess what, its not 1980 anymore. The nightmare is over for you oldieonekanobie:D
 
three rivet bar tip

For those who are interested there is a brand new three rivet bar tip item no. 300821249464 buy it now for $12 on ebay.
 
I had one MM with all kinds of issues, replaced seals (tested it before and after to confirm) and no more problems after that. Seals are pretty cheap, and it is a good exercise to take one down all the way once in a while to gain some experience. You won't be out too much even if you make a mistake on a MM.

Mark
 
Nice red oak today.

Lazarus and I took on a nice double trunk with big forks red oak today. Have I ever told you guys I love PM 800s? Well the affair continues. I did save the over 3 foot trunks for the SP125Cs; I'll get them some other weekend. Lazerus is wearing a 24" bar and an 8 pin. Just enough load on the saw where you have to do your part. I used a less thirsty Germany saw to buck up the under 20" stuff.

Back to the PM800s, I have been remiss in reporting back to you on the replacement chain adjusters I made using allen head screws and the square adjusters from some newer MAC. I haven't broke one yet. So far they work just like by 125s, the nut loosens a little as you saw which means the bar nuts are carrying the load as they should. IME the oem screw and nut are both weak and one or both tend to bend so the nut always stays tight and takes every impact. The only downside so far is the allen head. While it allows you to turn it from an angle as I had hoped, if you don't clean the oily sawdust out it will continue to pack up until you can no longer get the wrench inserted. Then you have to find something small enough and strong enough to dig out all the compacted sawdust.

Late in the day, the clutch guard broke off Lazarus as I was cranking him. He is now the ultimate noodling machine or an accident waiting to happen. My vote is an accident waiting to happen although I did finish up the last 15 minutes without it. :msp_smile: Ron

Today's Red Oak:

View attachment 264997View attachment 264998

The ultimate noodler:

View attachment 264999View attachment 265000View attachment 265001
 
I had one MM with all kinds of issues, replaced seals (tested it before and after to confirm) and no more problems after that. Seals are pretty cheap, and it is a good exercise to take one down all the way once in a while to gain some experience. You won't be out too much even if you make a mistake on a MM.

Mark

Well, you make a valid point but id replace the seals on one of the dozen long blocks I have sitting on a shelf and then swap em. :D
 

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