Mark, in my unsolicited opinion the most awesome use of your BP399 would be this:
Tri-Flyer: A 3-Place Hovercraft
Tri-Flyer: A 3-Place Hovercraft
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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cpr
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How much of the guts are left on that Town & Country muffler?
mad murdock
ArboristSite Guru
Anyone else notice all the Mac's in the haul posted by C 90 Saw on the chainsaws thread? He got quite a lot, looks like one of paccity's hauls! Lots of good yellow stuff in the mix!
Jim - I think I would prefer something designed for dry ground, preferably with rubber tires.
Town & Country A.K.A. Loud and LOUDER "muffler"
Mark
Town & Country A.K.A. Loud and LOUDER "muffler"
Mark
ramzilla
ArboristSite Guru
Well fellas I scored today on a Yella Belly! I had posted a link to a craigslist add in the I saw it on ebay thread about a Pro Mac 700 with a bow bar setup on it. I went and looked at it and brought it home along with a little Homie for less than I would have paid for the bow setup. Drained the old fuel out of both and got both saws running good within a few minutes! 
The saws were the guys father's that passed away and are both in good shape. Even I feel like I suck on this one.
The saws were the guys father's that passed away and are both in good shape. Even I feel like I suck on this one.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
Howdy guys. I picked up a 1971-72ish 10-10A a few days ago and need an air filter. This one has the round topped filter. I found an IPL for the saw, but the part number listed doesn't match with any 10-10 replacement filter I can find. I'm guessing that the part number must have changed at a later date or that they are out of production. I know that the later ones went to a flat filter. My uncle is under the impression that one of the stens filters is the correct replacement, but since the part numbers don't match, I'm not so sure.
The saw started and ran after a little fiddling with it, both manual and auto oilers work. Just needs a bar and an air filter to start cutting wood.
The saw started and ran after a little fiddling with it, both manual and auto oilers work. Just needs a bar and an air filter to start cutting wood.
I believe that filter is not being made by anyone now. NOS ones still pop up on ebay, try these part numbers: 91456 89458 86397. The only ones on there now are outlandishly priced, if you are patient you can find a new one for 15 bucks or so.
Looks like a conglomeration of stuff.
From what i see, It might have been a CP at one
time but now has an SP motor with CP rear
cylinder cover and fuel tank. SP fan housing and
recoil. SP filter cover with CP decal. SP muffler.
So who really knows what this thing started life as.
Lee
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks for the info.:biggrin: I'll see what turns up.
BTW, In my blissful ignorance I posted my GTG in the firewood forum. I had it moved so it is now in the chainsaw forum. Give a holler if interested.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/234023.htm#post4276570
Jim
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/234023.htm#post4276570
Jim
you could go to a fabric store and get some synthetic (non-organic) tight-weave material and fit it to your filter frame with some glue. done it, works fine.
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cowroy
Addicted to ArboristSite
[video=youtube_share;sFa8o5ISTJc]http://youtu.be/sFa8o5ISTJc[/video]
I have been wanting to mess with a front tank saw again for a while, but too many other projects kept getting in the way. One of my new chain saw friends in IN told me he wanted a center pull saw (dad was a long time McCulloch dealer) and looking in the attic I found a nice example of a D-30, may have come from Stude54 but I don't remember precisely now.
I started to take it apart last night for a good cleaning and discovered one of the "ears" that hold the carburetor to the intake were broken so I will have to change the airbox to correct that. Of course on this model that means taking it all apart...better for cleaning anyway.
I didn't take any "before" shots and only a few during disassembly but this will give you a taste of it anyway. One of the nice things (?) about the D-30 and 36, like the 1-40 that followed, no oil tank or oiler to mess with. Bar and chain lubrication were automatic from "heavy oil and crank case residue" scavenged from the crank case and directed to the bar through some channels cast into the saw.
The starter mechanism on these are a real marvel. Actually pretty easy to work on, but sound cheesy when you are trying to start the saw.
Virtually all of the large frame saws were built with a removable crank case cover. After pulling the flywheel and removing the 6 screw holding the cover on, two are tapped 1/4-20 to aid in pulling the cover off.
That brass screen in the bottom is over the pick up port for the bar lubrication. Did I mention the saw was intended to run a 10:1 mix so there was enough oil left over for bar and chain lubrication?
Like several other models of the day, the D-30 had a removable head.
That's all for now.
Mark
I started to take it apart last night for a good cleaning and discovered one of the "ears" that hold the carburetor to the intake were broken so I will have to change the airbox to correct that. Of course on this model that means taking it all apart...better for cleaning anyway.
I didn't take any "before" shots and only a few during disassembly but this will give you a taste of it anyway. One of the nice things (?) about the D-30 and 36, like the 1-40 that followed, no oil tank or oiler to mess with. Bar and chain lubrication were automatic from "heavy oil and crank case residue" scavenged from the crank case and directed to the bar through some channels cast into the saw.
The starter mechanism on these are a real marvel. Actually pretty easy to work on, but sound cheesy when you are trying to start the saw.
Virtually all of the large frame saws were built with a removable crank case cover. After pulling the flywheel and removing the 6 screw holding the cover on, two are tapped 1/4-20 to aid in pulling the cover off.
That brass screen in the bottom is over the pick up port for the bar lubrication. Did I mention the saw was intended to run a 10:1 mix so there was enough oil left over for bar and chain lubrication?
Like several other models of the day, the D-30 had a removable head.
That's all for now.
Mark
i'm in. thanks mark.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
I might do that. I'd like to use it this weekend and that might be my only option. I'm debating whether to stay with a 16" B/C or go to a 20". The 16" mcculloch bar that's on it right now is in really bad shape. The chain is also binding up in the sprocket at the bar nose, so I'm wondering if whoever swapped in the rim sprocket used an 8 tooth rim instead of the standard 7 tooth. I haven't pulled it apart to check yet, but it's all can I think of.
Hey Gents,
Made the "125 Club" this week
Saw came as advertised and well packed, which is always a bonus. The description indicated no spark...that is accurate. However, the magnet side of the coil lamination was covered in heavy sap/sawdust and oil residues...you could not see the lamination at all. I'm hoping a simple degrease will do the trick as that as worked on other saws with similar issues.
The red paint comes off pretty easily, I did a "test" cleaning in the middle of the mark...brake clean takes it off. Gotta love the Mac finish which typically holds up very well to brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) as long as the paint is not oxidized...otherwise it comes off too, BTW
View attachment 290697
View attachment 290698
View attachment 290699
Saw has MONSTER compression....though I don't like the discoloring below the rings.
View attachment 290700
I have a question on the brake, which is lacking the Pivot Lock and I think the spring might be broken. It looks the same as the 10-10 and the SP80+...is it?
Any help on this would be great, I know the Brake is rare...part of the reason for the investment.
That NOS Mac bar from a few weeks back is going to look goooood!
-Andy
Made the "125 Club" this week
Saw came as advertised and well packed, which is always a bonus. The description indicated no spark...that is accurate. However, the magnet side of the coil lamination was covered in heavy sap/sawdust and oil residues...you could not see the lamination at all. I'm hoping a simple degrease will do the trick as that as worked on other saws with similar issues.
The red paint comes off pretty easily, I did a "test" cleaning in the middle of the mark...brake clean takes it off. Gotta love the Mac finish which typically holds up very well to brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) as long as the paint is not oxidized...otherwise it comes off too, BTW
View attachment 290697
View attachment 290698
View attachment 290699
Saw has MONSTER compression....though I don't like the discoloring below the rings.
View attachment 290700
I have a question on the brake, which is lacking the Pivot Lock and I think the spring might be broken. It looks the same as the 10-10 and the SP80+...is it?
Any help on this would be great, I know the Brake is rare...part of the reason for the investment.
That NOS Mac bar from a few weeks back is going to look goooood!
-Andy
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ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
Hey Gents,
Made the "125 Club" this week
Saw came as advertised and well packed, which is always a bonus. The description indicated no spark...that is accurate. However, the magnet side of the coil lamination was covered in heavy sap/sawdust and oil residues...you could not see the lamination at all. I'm hoping a simple degrease will do the trick as that as worked on other saws with similar issues.
The red paint comes off pretty easily, I did a "test" cleaning in the middle of the mark...brake clean takes it off. Gotta love the Mac finish which typically holds up very well to brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) as long as the paint is not oxidized...otherwise it comes off too, BTW
View attachment 290697
View attachment 290698
View attachment 290699
Saw has MONSTER compression....though I don't like the discoloring below the rings.
View attachment 290700
I have a question on the brake, which is lacking the Pivot Lock and I think the spring might be broken. It looks the same as the 10-10 and the SP80+...is it?
Any help on this would be great, I know the Brake is rare...part of the reason for the investment.
That NOS Mac bar from a few weeks back is going to look goooood!
-Andy
The part number for the latch is 91235a now i believe that this part number is only applicable to the latch on the SP125C ... Sorry
Sweet 125 minosi, I almost tossed a bid in on it.
But saw funds are a bit low at the moment. Spent
my quota for a few weeks. Those 125's with chain
brake are tough to find. I wouldn't worry to much
about the discoloration on the piston. The rings could
be just a tad week. I would sink it in some big wood
and see how she cuts. I have no advise on the chain
brake parts. Someone else may chime in.
Lee
But saw funds are a bit low at the moment. Spent
my quota for a few weeks. Those 125's with chain
brake are tough to find. I wouldn't worry to much
about the discoloration on the piston. The rings could
be just a tad week. I would sink it in some big wood
and see how she cuts. I have no advise on the chain
brake parts. Someone else may chime in.
Lee
Thanks for the # McBob
Looks like there is some cross-over:
http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-McCulloch-10-10-Pro-Mac-60-Super-Pro-81-Chainsaw-Chian-Brake-Latch-91235A-/261136293511?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cccef9e87
Does the spring cross over as well?
Going to order one of your cd's one of these days!
-Andy
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