McCulloch Chain Saws

[8433jeff]

I might do that. I'd like to use it this weekend and that might be my only option. I'm debating whether to stay with a 16" B/C or go to a 20". The 16" mcculloch bar that's on it right now is in really bad shape. The chain is also binding up in the sprocket at the bar nose, so I'm wondering if whoever swapped in the rim sprocket used an 8 tooth rim instead of the standard 7 tooth. I haven't pulled it apart to check yet, but it's all can I think of.

If the chain follows around the drive sprocket well, then those two are matched. Sounds like the bar is not. Seven or eight tooth on the drive only affects chain speed/torque.

But you needed a new bar anyway.

 

[machinisttx]

If the chain follows around the drive sprocket well, then those two are matched. Sounds like the bar is not. Seven or eight tooth on the drive only affects chain speed/torque.

But you needed a new bar anyway.

I was under the impression that if you swapped to a different number of teeth on the drive that the sprocket in the bar needed to match. Now that I think about it, that doesn't make sense anyway. I didn't look very close, so it could be trying to slip between the sprocket and the bar. As far as I can tell, the chain is following the rim as it should.

 

[ozflea]

Just what a real man needs



And i have the yellow t-shirt here as well nothing like matching accessories

McBob

 

[heimannm]

Brake parts

According to my IPL's, the latch is the same for the SP60/70/80/81 (91235) and the SP125, the handle or lever is the same part number as well (91251).

The spring has a different number on my IPL's, 91239 for the 10 Series and 91411 for the SP125. I expect you can make the 10 Series spring work. I have an SP125 clutch cover for the brake without any of the parts, I will have to try fitting the 10 Series parts to the 125 cover and see how it looks.

The brake band for the 125 is clearly different than the one for the 10 Series saws, now I have to try to find a brake band and the anchor pin for the 125...

Mark

 

[ozflea]

Bloody hard bits to find i suspect a lot of cutters from that time period simply just chucked them or the replacement cover was fitted without the lever and sundry bits

The lever would jam on the back of your hand when at the bottom of a large bucking cut

McBob.

 

[3000 FPS]

McCulloch 1-60

I have a saw here I believe is a 1-60 but so far have not found any numbers anywhere to say what it is. So I am looking for a confirmation on what I believe it to be as a 1-60. If there are some hidden numbers somewhere and I can be pointed to that area that would be appreciated also. The chain is 1/2" and the bar is around 32". I pulled the muffler and the piston and cylinder look good. That is about as far as I have gotten with it so far.

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[leeha]

Thats a sweet lookin 1-60 you got there.
Don't usually see them in such nice shape.



Lee

 

[heimannm]

Look at the bottom of the saw, the model number will be stamped on the left hand side of the "T" in the casting, the serial number on the right.

This one could not decide if it wanted to be a 1-76 or 1-86, ended up 1-76...

Mark

 

[3000 FPS]

Thats a sweet lookin 1-60 you got there.
Don't usually see them in such nice shape.



Lee

Thanks Lee. I have not tried to start it up yet and want to gather some more information on it before doing so. I was up in Wyoming and bought a 40 foot semi-trailer for storage. The saw was inside the trailer and I offered the person alittle extra cash and got it.

 

[3000 FPS]

Heimannm I looked to the left of the T and the stamp is very faint. I got a set of magnifiers out and I can make out a 1-?0. The number after the 1- looks almost like a 5 but I know that a 1-50 is direct drive not a gear drive. I suppose the 5 could be a 6 because it is faint and the paint also make it difficult. So for now I will settle on 1-60.

As I proceed with the saw I will come back with any questions. Thanks Roger.

 

[ozflea]

I have a saw here I believe is a 1-60 but so far have not found any numbers anywhere to say what it is. So I am looking for a confirmation on what I believe it to be as a 1-60. If there are some hidden numbers somewhere and I can be pointed to that area that would be appreciated also. The chain is 1/2" and the bar is around 32". I pulled the muffler and the piston and cylinder look good. That is about as far as I have gotten with it so far.

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I have one here as well but not as nice a looking saw as this one

McBob.

 

[machinisttx]

Heimannm I looked to the left of the T and the stamp is very faint. I got a set of magnifiers out and I can make out a 1-?0. The number after the 1- looks almost like a 5 but I know that a 1-50 is direct drive not a gear drive. I suppose the 5 could be a 6 because it is faint and the paint also make it difficult. So for now I will settle on 1-60.

As I proceed with the saw I will come back with any questions. Thanks Roger.

Lay a piece of paper over the stamped area and then lightly rub a crayon/marker/pencil over the paper. The depressed areas won't take as much color as everything else.

 

[joeymt33]

I have a saw here I believe is a 1-60 but so far have not found any numbers anywhere to say what it is. So I am looking for a confirmation on what I believe it to be as a 1-60. If there are some hidden numbers somewhere and I can be pointed to that area that would be appreciated also. The chain is 1/2" and the bar is around 32". I pulled the muffler and the piston and cylinder look good. That is about as far as I have gotten with it so far.

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Those numbers look like 1-76 to me. How did that motor get into that saw? If its a 1-76 motor, that would make a little more power at 99cc. Sweet saw

 

[RandyMac]

Those numbers look like 1-76 to me. How did that motor get into that saw? If its a 1-76 motor, that would make a little more power at 99cc. Sweet saw

It should look like this

1-50
1-60

with the 1-50 lined out or ground off.

There are many dual or even triple McCulloch model numbers.

 

[OldDeadWood]

Posted by Mark H. on page 1329 # 19922

Hay Mark: This realy doesn't have anything to do with anything But!!!

This is a picture of my lair. Roughly in the middle of the shot is a clock, made for me by my oldest son who is a repurposer. That's someone who makes something new and different out of something old, like end tables out of treddle sewing machines. He also likes to tinker with saws, with me, and he is a journymen tool and die maker. So he can make almost anything out of anything.

I just thought the clock was cool and I look at it every day.

ODW


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[rwoods]

Granddaddy's 1-60

Here are some shots of my Granddaddy's 1-60. It is a little dirty as it was put on the shelf as is over thirty years ago after a kickback sent me to the ER. I still have the original straight bar but the bar adjuster and chain has been misplaced. Ron

This little unprotected are is what got me. Busted three knuckles on the shield and the chain got the fourth knuckle. I'm sure there is plenty of my DNA still there.

Curiously this unguarded spot is the same place that got my father's thumb on his 640/840 ??? when he was logging. His saw was equipped with the more modern removable guard. He wrote McCulloch after his accident and they sent him a a new guard that had a removable tail that covered this area. It was a fitted design. The tail was removed with your scrench so you could get to the oil cap underneath. I can still see my dad opening the box in our living room and explaining it to me. Even as a young kid I was impressed with the workmanship. I have never seen another like it. Maybe one day I'll find his old saw.


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[struggle]

Tonight I pushed the wrist pin out on the PM800. Man that thing is in there tight:msp_sneaky:

I heated the rod with a small propane torch and used a set of blocks shaped to the piston contour and with a socket and brass hammer got it out.

Correct if there is a better way but tomorrow I was thinking of heating the rod rather hot and freezing the pin to install the new piston. I don't have a press. I would assume a propane torch wouldn't cause any issue with being to hot. I will have friend over as I think an extra hand might be helpful to speed up installation.

 

[stinkbait]

Tonight I pushed the wrist pin out on the PM800. Man that thing is in there tight:msp_sneaky:

I heated the rod with a small propane torch and used a set of blocks shaped to the piston contour and with a socket and brass hammer got it out.

Correct if there is a better way but tomorrow I was thinking of heating the rod rather hot and freezing the pin to install the new piston. I don't have a press. I would assume a propane torch wouldn't cause any issue with being to hot. I will have friend over as I think an extra hand might be helpful to speed up installation.

You need a big vise or an arbor press. I've done quite a few 10 series in a vise. Very smooth.

 

[ozflea]

Tonight I pushed the wrist pin out on the PM800. Man that thing is in there tight:msp_sneaky:

I heated the rod with a small propane torch and used a set of blocks shaped to the piston contour and with a socket and brass hammer got it out.

Correct if there is a better way but tomorrow I was thinking of heating the rod rather hot and freezing the pin to install the new piston. I don't have a press. I would assume a propane torch wouldn't cause any issue with being to hot. I will have friend over as I think an extra hand might be helpful to speed up installation.

Well really the propane torch isn't the way to go there must be a special tool i'm sure for wristpin removal anyway after you get her all done and started give her a good rev then you'll know weather the wrist pin is still staight and true.

McBob.

 

[rwoods]

You need a big vise or an arbor press. I've done quite a few 10 series in a vise. Very smooth.

Or a threaded rod, large socket (or thick fitted washer) to spread the load on the piston, some nuts and washers. Not original to me - something I learned from the MAC pros on this thread. Ron