McCulloch Chain Saws

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Better? No, just different. If you want true raw power, with the old style chainsaw, the 797 is it, the 125s can seem tame next to one.

Have you ever run any super 797s? I would like to know how they run compared to the standard 797 and what the super means a far as differences? I know mine even with low compression just completely amazes me... The cylinder still has cross hatching on it, but you can really hear the atmosphere slipping by the rings. I would love to get it right this summer. The saw still has its read owners manual and dont use used oil stickers on it, paint looks great, the exterior of the cylinder looks allmost new as well.

this is the saw that was stolen and recoverd THANK GOD!!!

http://arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81327&d=1225928059
 
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You use the existing coil. I've converted many using the "Mega Fire" solid state module. It's very easy and takes all of 20 minutes.

I converted my Homelite Super XL using the Mega Fire module and it made it start and run much better than with points. Real easy to do...just follow directions included in kit. Seems like there's one or two wires to splice, nothing to it.
 
points to electronic ign

Can you say some more about how you make this change on other saws?
 
Got to be careful with the Ryobi as some of them have rev limiters. The Poulan 2000s do not. This saw has a Poulan 2000 ignition in it.

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Can you say some more about how you make this change on other saws?
Basically you just bolt it in with the screw that held the points in place, then you connect a couple of wires, I think maybe one to ground and one goes to the coil or something like that. It works on all saws with points. Like I said, the instructions come with it.

I found an old Stens catalog with instructions in it: Bolt it onto the saw where the points were, this unit contains a blue and a white wire; cut the wire that went to the points from the coil (small wire) and splice it to the blue wire. Also connect the blue wire to the kill switch. The white wire goes to ground. I paid $9.95 for mine years ago; now they're $15.00
 
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Thanks,guys.You all have been a lot of help.My sp125c and cp125 run fine right now,but who knows what the future holds later on.I just did sell 2 Poulan 2000 chainsaws :(.I still got a Craftsman (Poulan 2000) so I will take a look at that one.I will also see about the Mega Fire set up also.I sold a Homelite 330 yesterday to a fellow and he seen my SP125C on the floor and wanted it instead.Of course I said NO!!!
 
Mega Jolt for saws

I've seen these for autos, but not for saws. Where do you get one?
thx
 
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electronic ignition

Yes I think it is. Have you had good service from these in chainsaws?
 
Picked up a 1-72 off ebay a few weeks back. I posted a thread on it. It had a good condition Town & Country muffler on it that I took off, cleaned, and painted to try to preserve it as I understand they've become rather rare. So here's a look inside one.

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The spring-loaded bolt turns to raise the baffle into place blocking the exhaust port to quiet it.

I wonder if this was around today, how long it'd take for someone to sue for burning their fingers?

A look inside.

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While I was painting this thing the other night, I had a very neat thought. I love this hobby because I was certain that, at that moment, I was probably the only guy in all of creation who was messing with one of these.
Tonight I had my 4 year old son Christian do the honors.

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The carb got rebuilt last night. All I need to get is a fuel line in the morning and she'll be good to go.

I'll get a video and we'll see if the claim of 50% quieter is true (gotta love marketing types :monkey:).
 
Devil Beaver 2.0

Houston....We have spark.

The NOS coil from Calvin fixed the spark problem! :clap:

The directions in the package must be whack however because there is not continuity between the plug wire and the lamination stack. It says resistance between the lamination stack and the plug end must be less than 3000 ohms but there is absolutely no continuity one either the good coil or the bad. Yet, one sparks and one does not.

Now, I have the air gap set at either .009, what is the correct gap for this little devil?

Also, has anyone that has ever worked on one of these tried to run it in a vise or something to make sure everything works before putting the Rubiks cube case back around the engine? I assume that's how the factory does it...

Finally, How the bleep do you change the fuel filter??? :chainsaw:

CLOSER to a running goofy little dinky chainsaw...:clap:
 
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Houston....We have spark.

The NOS coil from Calvin fixed the spark problem! :clap:

The directions in the package must be whack however because there is not continuity between the plug wire and the lamination stack. It says resistance between the lamination stack and the plug end must be less than 3000 ohms but there is absolutely no continuity one either the good coil or the bad. Yet, one sparks and one does not.

Now, I have the air gap at either .009 or .012 but don't have my caliper to measure my shim stock. What is the correct gap for this little devil?

Also, has anyone that has ever worked on one of these tried to run it in a vise or something to make sure everything works before putting the Rubiks cube case back around the engine? I assume that's how the factory does it...

Finally,
How the bleep do you change the fuel filter???
:chainsaw:

CLOSER to a running goofy little dinky chainsaw...:clap:

very very patiently and carefully .012 for starters can always go down if needed i have a extra coil if you hear anyone needing one
 
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Houston....We have spark.

The NOS coil from Calvin fixed the spark problem! :clap:

The directions in the package must be whack however because there is not continuity between the plug wire and the lamination stack. It says resistance between the lamination stack and the plug end must be less than 3000 ohms but there is absolutely no continuity one either the good coil or the bad. Yet, one sparks and one does not.

Now, I have the air gap set at either .009, what is the correct gap for this little devil?

Also, has anyone that has ever worked on one of these tried to run it in a vise or something to make sure everything works before putting the Rubiks cube case back around the engine? I assume that's how the factory does it...

Finally, How the bleep do you change the fuel filter??? :chainsaw:

CLOSER to a running goofy little dinky chainsaw...:clap:

Update: Acres says .012 air gap for coil. I will update that tomorrow.

Any advice for tuning it outside the case? Should be able to hold it somehow and start it with a dril????
 
Started the 1-72 this morning. Gosh what a frustrating process putting the carb in is on these with the fuel line designed like that. Anyway, it's making the same weird noise my 795 made when I first started that one, too. Oh, well. At least this time I know where to look. I'll pop the flywheel tonight and check the points all out. Gotta get ready for church right now.


Oh yeah...

Is the T&C quieter closed than open? Not really... :monkey:
 
Started the 1-72 this morning. Gosh what a frustrating process putting the carb in is on these with the fuel line designed like that. Anyway, it's making the same weird noise my 795 made when I first started that one, too. Oh, well. At least this time I know where to look. I'll pop the flywheel tonight and check the points all out.
Gotta get ready for church right now.


Oh yeah...

Is the T&C quieter closed than open? Not really... :monkey:

Just got home from there myself how was it this morning ?
 
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