McCulloch Chain Saws

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Brian - if it is a basic saw with no colored stop switch and no throttle release in the handle, it is a 7-10. If the stop switch is red and it has a throttle release in the handle, it is a PM700.

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PM610 - you will have to translate that request into English; why are you boiling the piston?

Mark
With the interchangeability of the parts on these saws sometimes it's hard to tell what you have. I have two 10-10 saws one PM700 and a PM55 and they look very much the same. I haven't looked but I guess they still have numbers on the bottom.
 
HeRoze - the breaker points assembly for the 640 is 50076 later changed to 88806, same parts used on all of the saws with a left hand start from the 1-40 up through the 660. Unless they are actually broken or missing, you should be able to polish the points using some fine emery paper, go to 400 or 600 grit and try to make them shine like a mirror.

a palmer jr - the 10 Series saws don't have the model numbers stamped on the crank case, but have a model/serial number tag that is normally riveted somewhere inside the air box.

Mark
 
HeRoze - the breaker points assembly for the 640 is 50076 later changed to 88806, same parts used on all of the saws with a left hand start from the 1-40 up through the 660. Unless they are actually broken or missing, you should be able to polish the points using some fine emery paper, go to 400 or 600 grit and try to make them shine like a mirror.

a palmer jr - the 10 Series saws don't have the model numbers stamped on the crank case, but have a model/serial number tag that is normally riveted somewhere inside the air box.

Mark

I went out to the shop and looked and that is correct. Funny thing though, even the airbox is removable on these saws. Not that I would do it, but it looks like you could make your "lowly" 10-10 into a fake 700 or 10-10s if you only had an air cleaner cover and airbox from the latter. I guess if you're gonna buy a higher dollar saw you can't tell strictly by using the serial number or did I miss something? Thanks Mark
 
HeRoze - the breaker points assembly for the 640 is 50076 later changed to 88806, same parts used on all of the saws with a left hand start from the 1-40 up through the 660. Unless they are actually broken or missing, you should be able to polish the points using some fine emery paper, go to 400 or 600 grit and try to make them shine like a mirror.

Mark

Mark,

Is there a 'new' number for the 57765A points used in the RH start saws? Do the LH start saws use the same 50074 condensor as the RH start saws? Also........is there a 'new' part number for those? I see lots of different numbers on feebay, and would like to know what to grab if it's cheap enough, and what to pass up.:cheers:
 
HeRoze - the breaker points assembly for the 640 is 50076 later changed to 88806, ===
Mark

Great - I noticed the 88806's are everywhere, and couldn't find the cross-reference. the points aren't broken, but are a bit worn. i can clean them up, and have cleaned plenty 'back in the day'. if I can get new ones for around $10 I will probably do so; it will have new parts where needed and provide someone with a reliable saw.

Mark et al. - what would be an adequate IPL to grab to have the more current part #s on the common parts? I would rather not bug ya'll when I could look it up myself.

thanks,
Vic
 
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Looks good Ron, let me know if you need some "help" testing it.

HeRoze - send me a PM with your e-mail and I can send an IPL for the 640, then look for McBob's CD on e-bay, for $30 you will have a few hundred to look through.

CRM - I see in one place both the Mac 15 and 250 show 102742, other 250 IPL's show PN 69891 but I suspect they are the same, just a later number.

Aaron - 57765 have been upped to 88807

Mark
 
Looks good Ron, let me know if you need some "help" testing it.

HeRoze - send me a PM with your e-mail and I can send an IPL for the 640, then look for McBob's CD on e-bay, for $30 you will have a few hundred to look through.

CRM - I see in one place both the Mac 15 and 250 show 102742, other 250 IPL's show PN 69891 but I suspect they are the same, just a later number.

Aaron - 57765 have been upped to 88807

Mark

Thanks Mark!:cheers:
 
Looks good Ron, let me know if you need some "help" testing it.

HeRoze - send me a PM with your e-mail and I can send an IPL for the 640, then look for McBob's CD on e-bay, for $30 you will have a few hundred to look through.

CRM - I see in one place both the Mac 15 and 250 show 102742, other 250 IPL's show PN 69891 but I suspect they are the same, just a later number.

Aaron - 57765 have been upped to 88807

Mark

Thanks for the info.
:cheers:
 
Brian - if it is a basic saw with no colored stop switch and no throttle release in the handle, it is a 7-10. If the stop switch is red and it has a throttle release in the handle, it is a PM700.

Mark

Thanks Mark!!! Looks like I have a 7-10, got lucky and my gamble paid off. On the down side, I need to find a new crank, there is a pretty big chip missing out of the flywheel side key way. Its missing the muffler, and it will need new rings for sure. Other than that it is just extremely dirty, and needs a good cleaning. I dont have an IPL yet, but will these rings work 87166, auction listing says its for 7-10, but also says they are wide rings? Dont know if that means oversize or not. I will try to get a couple of pics this evening.
 
Thanks Mark!!! Looks like I have a 7-10, got lucky and my gamble paid off. On the down side, I need to find a new crank, there is a pretty big chip missing out of the flywheel side key way. Its missing the muffler, and it will need new rings for sure. Other than that it is just extremely dirty, and needs a good cleaning. I dont have an IPL yet, but will these rings work 87166, auction listing says its for 7-10, but also says they are wide rings? Dont know if that means oversize or not. I will try to get a couple of pics this evening.

Some Macs have the thin rings, (ring is a thin profile, as viewed from the side) and some have the thick rings (ring has a thick profile, as viewed from the side) If you take a clear picture of the piston through the exhaust port, I could probably tell you which rings are on your saw.
 
Some Macs have the thin rings, (ring is a thin profile, as viewed from the side) and some have the thick rings (ring has a thick profile, as viewed from the side) If you take a clear picture of the piston through the exhaust port, I could probably tell you which rings are on your saw.

I just figured that out going through Fish's parts data base. I have the thick ring version. I was thinking oversize, but it has a chrome lined bore and cant be bored out. So I found some rings on ebay that will work, just need to find a muffler and crank.
 
I just figured that out going through Fish's parts data base. I have the thick ring version. I was thinking oversize, but it has a chrome lined bore and cant be bored out. So I found some rings on ebay that will work, just need to find a muffler and crank.

It's also possible you could find a parts saw cheaper than buying a few parts individually. I've had several of them in the past but am currently sold out. Ebay is a good place to look.
 
Got me a nice 1-76 to restore

I think that this is going to be the first Mac that I restore. I have built a lot of mac saws with new engine parts, but never fully restored one by painting it. This saw doesn't seem to have any broken or bent parts. It has 135psi compression, so hopefully a fresh hone and a new piston assembly will revitalize it. It does have some kind of wierd governor on it.
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Only downside is the flatback carb. I have never had any luck with them. I guess I will have to figure it out on this one. I could never get the one on my 440 to draw any fuel, even with a new kit, and after flushing all the passages several times.
 
That sure is a clean saw for it's age Stink, are we looking at powder coat & chrome? I've been thinking about doing some restoration, but the War Department made a surprise inspection and doesn't understand why we need so many old yellow saws when we have so many new orange ones. Not sure if I can slip a blast cabinet, compressor, wash tank, and oven onto the need list without looking at furniture, paint, and window treatments! Looking forward to lots of pics!
:popcorn:

John
 
Thanks! It will probably be a while before I start the build. I don't like to start anything like that without having all the parts I need first. I have been making a parts list so far. Probably won't do any powder coating, but it will get some nice new yellow enamel. How rare are the 1-76 saws? How hard is it going to be to find a piston assembley? This one has a really nice front handle that is covered all the way around. The pics don't show it well, but the handle is in great shape.
 
That sure is a clean saw for it's age Stink, are we looking at powder coat & chrome? I've been thinking about doing some restoration, but the War Department made a surprise inspection and doesn't understand why we need so many old yellow saws when we have so many new orange ones. Not sure if I can slip a blast cabinet, compressor, wash tank, and oven onto the need list without looking at furniture, paint, and window treatments! Looking forward to lots of pics!
:popcorn:

John

Need me to hide some of those yellow saws from the war department? I have an empty loft in my pole barn...
 
Nice saw stinkbait!!! Persevere on that flatback, I hung in with the Super 250 and finally got it. That air vane governor seems weird, but I have them hooked up on several of my saws and believe it or not, they work! It does add an extra element to the tuning, however.
 
Nice saw stinkbait!!! Persevere on that flatback, I hung in with the Super 250 and finally got it. That air vane governor seems weird, but I have them hooked up on several of my saws and believe it or not, they work! It does add an extra element to the tuning, however.

Thanks! This is a pic of my latest build in case you didn't see it. SP81 with fresh piston and rings and electronic coil.
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