McCulloch Chain Saws
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OldDeadWood
ArboristSite Operative
McCulloch v Sears/Roper
I thought my 1-40 needed a bunch of work because my Sears/Roper could keep up with it and in many cases beat it.
View attachment 215780
I tuned the 1-40 untill I was blue in the face but could not get any more out of it.
McC 1-40 Video [video]http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x467/OldWoodEye9/?action=view¤t=MOV0McC1-40.mp4[/video]
Sears/Roper Video[video]http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x467/OldWoodEye9/?action=view¤t=MOV0Sears3_7.mp4[/video]
After reading the post on page 804 #12053, by madhatte, I took a better look at my 1-40.
I found that my 1-40 was as detuned as the one madhatte described. The center exhaust port
was not drilled and there were only two transfer ports on each side of the cylinder. The poor
thing can't breath.
If I get the chance, in the next couple months, I'm going to make a project of opening her up
and trying my hand at a little porting as well.
ODW
I thought my 1-40 needed a bunch of work because my Sears/Roper could keep up with it and in many cases beat it.
View attachment 215780
I tuned the 1-40 untill I was blue in the face but could not get any more out of it.
McC 1-40 Video [video]http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x467/OldWoodEye9/?action=view¤t=MOV0McC1-40.mp4[/video]
Sears/Roper Video[video]http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x467/OldWoodEye9/?action=view¤t=MOV0Sears3_7.mp4[/video]
After reading the post on page 804 #12053, by madhatte, I took a better look at my 1-40.
I found that my 1-40 was as detuned as the one madhatte described. The center exhaust port
was not drilled and there were only two transfer ports on each side of the cylinder. The poor
thing can't breath.
If I get the chance, in the next couple months, I'm going to make a project of opening her up
and trying my hand at a little porting as well.
ODW
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Yep. I remember seeing those new at a dealer in the mid '90s. Basically a PM700, which is an 'updated' 7-10A. That saw is set up like my PM700 (aside from paint scheme and decals). Same op-pres lever (that doubles as a throttle lock) and muffler cover type chain brake equipped clutch cover.
My PM700. Wearing the 28" Super Pro roller nose bar from my SP-81. It now has an NOS Windsor 24" Speed Tip. I need to take the numbers from that bar to figure out what mount it is. I've heard/read that Windsor never made a D176 mount bar.....................but my Windsor sure looks like an Oregon D176. It may be a TMX (which is the Windsor name for a D276 type McCulloch mount), but it has the "extra" oiler holes (for an Echo or Poulan saw) that one usually sees on a D176 bar (rather than only having the slots from the adjuster holes to the bar groove). I'll shoot a couple pics and post the bar numbers tomorrow. Meant to do that a while ago, but forgot...
My 7-10A.
Aaron those variations dont surprise me much. I'll bet back in the day a Mac dealers parts man would want to shoot himself by the end of each day trying to figure all that stuff out.
It appears my handle/tank assembly is a 2-10 leftover. But the serial in the carb area states it is a 7-10. I can not find an IPL specifically for my serial range(11-11115)
Ok wheres mine?
While Marks 7-10 has an extra set of adjuster ports, Mine has none! I guess his saw got mine! Seriously, any ideas on this? This is a 6-10 with an SDC carb. No holes on either side. Id assume I have to set the carb to maybe 1 1/4 turn out and hope its right or have to take the whole carb off to re-set! Ill drill holes before that happens. Ideas please. This one is on my bench right now, just waiting on a carb kit.
While Marks 7-10 has an extra set of adjuster ports, Mine has none! I guess his saw got mine! Seriously, any ideas on this? This is a 6-10 with an SDC carb. No holes on either side. Id assume I have to set the carb to maybe 1 1/4 turn out and hope its right or have to take the whole carb off to re-set! Ill drill holes before that happens. Ideas please. This one is on my bench right now, just waiting on a carb kit.
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The IPL's aren't listed by serial number range. Take the "11" SN prefix, then look for the model number.
Here's an example of what I'm talking about. My 7-10A model # is 600052D. My serial number is 12-204XX (I 'x-d' the last digit out because I'm paranoid). The IPL I'd look for would be 12-600052D. That's how they have 'em listed on that site.
This is my IPL listing on that site.
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/McC...12_600052D_7_10A_10_71_to_12_75_IPL_91123.pdf
Here's the site again.
"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"
You probably have a single needle carb. The idle speed and idle mixture screws both stick out of the carb at an angle (so you can reach them with the screwdriver). The 'regular' L and H needle bores are undrilled on that carb casting. That's how the single needle SDC on my SP-81 was (although the speed is still adjusted by a screw through the tank on that saw). My 7-10A has the H and L needles accessed through the rubber boot in the tank, and the idle speed screw passes through the upper tank half. Same thing with my PM700. Your 7-10 may have short H and L needles that must be accessed with the AF cover off. I had a 10-10A that was set up this way. PITA to adjust. There are also fully adjustable SDC's with short needles, plus "intermediate" extensions that key into the needle screw heads and then pass through the grommets on the lower tank half (holes for these are in Mark's "six hole" 7-10 mystery saw).
Check out the IPL I listed above. There are a couple dual needle SDC variants, plus a couple single needle SDC variants listed. They are short dual needle, long dual needle, single needle with external idle speed adjustment (on tank), and single needle with internal idle speed screw (on carb). These are all in ONE IPL (out of dozens). As Mark said...............the life of a McCulloch parts man must have been a real hair puller at times...
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I traveled over to Northeast Iowa today (Little Switzerland) to help some friends cut a little wood. Beautiful farm tucked back in a large valley, several spring fed streams wandering through, trout in a tank, and lots and lots of trees. They had a few logs drug out, weather has been too warm lately to let them get serious about dragging logs out so they only had a few red elm, walnut, some miscellaneous elm, and log piece of cherry.
I used my PM800, one of the SP81's, a pair of Titan 57's, and the Dolmar 7900; I hade a couple other saw along including one of my SP105's but we didn't that today.
I still have some work to do on the PM800, a little bar oil is being forced into the crank case when you work the manual oiler and I will have to replace the manual oiler on one of the Titan 57's but at lease everything started and ran very well. The SP81 is pure joy to run (make sure you have your hearing protection), in fact is seems a bit stronger than the PM800. It's probably not a good idea to run the Titan's after running the 7900 but I wanted to compare the two 57's each with 18" bars, one dressed with 3/8 chain and one with .325. Based on the first test I'd say 3/8 is the way to go but I'll compare them again after touching up both chains by filing.
Mark
I used my PM800, one of the SP81's, a pair of Titan 57's, and the Dolmar 7900; I hade a couple other saw along including one of my SP105's but we didn't that today.
I still have some work to do on the PM800, a little bar oil is being forced into the crank case when you work the manual oiler and I will have to replace the manual oiler on one of the Titan 57's but at lease everything started and ran very well. The SP81 is pure joy to run (make sure you have your hearing protection), in fact is seems a bit stronger than the PM800. It's probably not a good idea to run the Titan's after running the 7900 but I wanted to compare the two 57's each with 18" bars, one dressed with 3/8 chain and one with .325. Based on the first test I'd say 3/8 is the way to go but I'll compare them again after touching up both chains by filing.
Mark
You probably have a single needle carb. The idle speed and idle mixture screws both stick out of the carb at an angle (so you can reach them with the screwdriver). The 'regular' L and H needle bores are undrilled on that carb casting. That's how the single needle SDC on my SP-81 was (although the speed is still adjusted by a screw through the tank on that saw). My 7-10A has the H and L needles accessed through the rubber boot in the tank, and the idle speed screw passes through the upper tank half. Same thing with my PM700. Your 7-10 may have short H and L needles that must be accessed with the AF cover off. I had a 10-10A that was set up this way. PITA to adjust. There are also fully adjustable SDC's with short needles, plus "intermediate" extensions that key into the needle screw heads and then pass through the grommets on the lower tank half (holes for these are in Mark's "six hole" 7-10 mystery saw). Check out the IPL I listed above. There are a couple dual needle SDC variants, plus a couple single needle SDC variants listed. These are all in ONE IPL (out of dozens). As Mark said...............the life of a McCulloch parts man must have been a real hair puller at times...[/QUOTE]
This Carb is an anomaly then. It DOES hat the angled idle screw, but also has a high and low needle in the traditional spots, short ones too. No way you could adjust this carb when its mounted.
This Carb is an anomaly then. It DOES hat the angled idle screw, but also has a high and low needle in the traditional spots, short ones too. No way you could adjust this carb when its mounted.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Hey Joe..............
I see a spray bottle with "white bleach" written on it on your bench. I hope it don't have bleach in it anymore. Bleach is DEADLY on magnesium. Starts white death on contact, and is difficult to stop. Don't ask me how I know.....
Edit:
Just saw your latest post. I have seen a short dual-needle SDC with an angled idle speed screw before. It was on a saw that had the H and L needle 'extension shafts' running through grommets in the lower tank half (in the locations where Mark has plastic plugs). My guess is that somebody took a single needle carb (with integral idle speed adjustment screw) out of your saw, and replaced it with a dual needle carb intended for a different saw. I suggest drilling access holes and fitting plugs......
Also noticed two more things............................................you spelled "bleach" with two E's ("Bleech"), and there's something BLUE in the bottle now. Window cleaner? Premix? Just giving you a bit of ribbing for the "Bleech"...
I see a spray bottle with "white bleach" written on it on your bench. I hope it don't have bleach in it anymore. Bleach is DEADLY on magnesium. Starts white death on contact, and is difficult to stop. Don't ask me how I know.....
Edit:
Just saw your latest post. I have seen a short dual-needle SDC with an angled idle speed screw before. It was on a saw that had the H and L needle 'extension shafts' running through grommets in the lower tank half (in the locations where Mark has plastic plugs). My guess is that somebody took a single needle carb (with integral idle speed adjustment screw) out of your saw, and replaced it with a dual needle carb intended for a different saw. I suggest drilling access holes and fitting plugs......
Also noticed two more things............................................you spelled "bleach" with two E's ("Bleech"), and there's something BLUE in the bottle now. Window cleaner? Premix? Just giving you a bit of ribbing for the "Bleech"...
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I see a spray bottle with "white bleach" written on it on your bench. I hope it don't have bleach in it anymore. Bleach is DEADLY on magnesium. Starts white death on contact, and is difficult to stop. Don't ask me how I know.....
haha Nooooooo. Its Bleech white. The stuff for cleaning tires. I cut it with water, works great for de-greasing saws and doesn't fade the paint like other solvents.
As an aside, i did see the effects of chlorine, actually just the vapors. My cousin had his dads xl 12 in the shed next to his pool chemicals and like you said, it had started to errode the paint and eat into the mag, I showed him in time tho.
Im pretty sure your right about the carb swap. Im gonna drill some holes I guess
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mactodd
ArboristSite Operative
I see a spray bottle with "white bleach" written on it on your bench. I hope it don't have bleach in it anymore. Bleach is DEADLY on magnesium. Starts white death on contact, and is difficult to stop. Don't ask me how I know.....
Makes a good battery though! I remember experiments in elementary school where we made light bulbs come on by attaching one wire to a piece of mag, and dipping it in Clorox, and the other wire just dangling in the Clorox. Of course, the mag got used up though. Bubbled like an Alka-Seltzer!
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Good stuff Mark! A member here (who I won't name......he can speak up if he wants to) has a PM850 that we've been chatting back and forth about (when not flinging insults and jabs.......he's a character). He's having the exact same issue as you're having with that PM800. Bar oil is getting into the crankcase, mostly when he hits the manual oiler. I told him to pull the tank front and unbolt the auto oiler pump, as the base gasket for the pump is most likely letting oil get drawn/forced into the impulse passage. Thought the o-ring inside the pump may be leaking too (or instead of the gasket). I haven't pulled one of those apart for a long time. The pump is held to the roof of the oil tank by one bolt that's accessable with the tank cover off correct? The 10-series service manual says to remove the fuel tank when working on the auto oiler. Is that really needed?
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Well that explains it. I never heard of the stuff. Sorry my friend....
I had some parts saws stored in a little shed which got some mildew growing on the drywall. Sprayed some bleach (cut with water) on the mildew to kill it. Well that worked.........but the bleach mist also attacked the magnesium on the parts saws......:censored:
McCulloch 10 Series direct drive saws
It is possible to service the automatic oil pump simply by removing the cover from the oil tank. The only reason to remove the fuel tank is if there is a problem with the manual oiler or inlet check valve, or to replace the pick up line.
The o-ring in the oil pump doesn't really do a lot in the way of closing off the oil passage, it is just there to stabilize what they call the piston ring.
Mark
It is possible to service the automatic oil pump simply by removing the cover from the oil tank. The only reason to remove the fuel tank is if there is a problem with the manual oiler or inlet check valve, or to replace the pick up line.
The o-ring in the oil pump doesn't really do a lot in the way of closing off the oil passage, it is just there to stabilize what they call the piston ring.
Mark
While Marks 7-10 has an extra set of adjuster ports, Mine has none! I guess his saw got mine! Seriously, any ideas on this? This is a 6-10 with an SDC carb. No holes on either side. Id assume I have to set the carb to maybe 1 1/4 turn out and hope its right or have to take the whole carb off to re-set! Ill drill holes before that happens. Ideas please. This one is on my bench right now, just waiting on a carb kit.
I have a 10-10S that has the adjuster holes and a 3-10 that has them, my two other 10-10 saws do not have the holes. I guess you could take the top off and adjust it if you had something flexible enough.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Thanks Mark. That's what I remembered.
Looks like you were in my old stomping grounds. Very pretty country indeed.
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
I traveled over to Northeast Iowa today (Little Switzerland) to help some friends cut a little wood. Beautiful farm tucked back in a large valley, several spring fed streams wandering through, trout in a tank, and lots and lots of trees. They had a few logs drug out, weather has been too warm lately to let them get serious about dragging logs out so they only had a few red elm, walnut, some miscellaneous elm, and log piece of cherry.
I used my PM800, one of the SP81's, a pair of Titan 57's, and the Dolmar 7900; I hade a couple other saw along including one of my SP105's but we didn't that today.
I still have some work to do on the PM800, a little bar oil is being forced into the crank case when you work the manual oiler and I will have to replace the manual oiler on one of the Titan 57's but at lease everything started and ran very well. The SP81 is pure joy to run (make sure you have your hearing protection), in fact is seems a bit stronger than the PM800. It's probably not a good idea to run the Titan's after running the 7900 but I wanted to compare the two 57's each with 18" bars, one dressed with 3/8 chain and one with .325. Based on the first test I'd say 3/8 is the way to go but I'll compare them again after touching up both chains by filing.
Mark
You must have crossed the border, Mark. Iowa is flat, and there ain't no fish. I don't even know why you own a saw, ain't no trees either. Thats why Wendell moved.:msp_biggrin:
Ozzie
ArboristSite Member
Another Hoosier 7-10A
ModifiedMark, good find, and local too. I have a "normal" SDC if you want to simplify that carb. PM me if interested. Free gratas!
Here is mine w/ 20" hard nose bar. Feals lighter than my 028S but I use the S due to having a chain break. Just my personal preference.
Anyway have fun with your latest project.
-Ozzie
ModifiedMark, good find, and local too. I have a "normal" SDC if you want to simplify that carb. PM me if interested. Free gratas!
Here is mine w/ 20" hard nose bar. Feals lighter than my 028S but I use the S due to having a chain break. Just my personal preference.
Anyway have fun with your latest project.
-Ozzie
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
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