McCulloch Chain Saws

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Hey fella's
Hope y'all are all doing well. I posted a question on May 31st about material used to wrap a McCulloch chainsaw bar. I found a post from a quite a few years back that mentioned some interesting options. They recommended automotive heater hose, rubber tubing from online dealers, cold shrink tubing, etc. So I'll throw the question back out there again with this new info. Have any of y'all restored an older chainsaw with these materials? Or have y'all had any success with other types of material? To me, the easiest option is to go down to O'Reillys and pick up some heater hose but I'm all ears for what other options are available and if they have proved durable. Thanks for y'all time fellas

Scott
 
Are you talking for like a wrap handle?

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 
Ok guys whats the od of the handles? Im at work so cant measure but... this is milk line is a nice soft rubber has a 15.7mm id and stretches to 25mm kinda size iv got it up against an inch galvanized pipe for comparison and its pushed over the threading machine handle and thats 25mm. It feels just like the factory handle. In nz u can get it anywhere and its very very durable.20180608_130106.jpg 20180608_130143.jpg 20180608_130221.jpg
 
Ok guys whats the od of the handles? Im at work so cant measure but... this is milk line is a nice soft rubber has a 15.7mm id and stretches to 25mm kinda size iv got it up against an inch galvanized pipe for comparison and its pushed over the threading machine handle and thats 25mm. It feels just like the factory handle. In nz u can get it anywhere and its very very durable.View attachment 656621 View attachment 656622 View attachment 656625

One thing you want to be sure of is that the hose is fuel resistant. You don't want a handful of goo if it isn't.
 
I've got one of those places right around the corner from where I live too.They sell milking machine parts,hoses,etc.I've been there to buy siphon hose for my wine making.The real test will be if it's petroleum product resistant.
 
Wetting the handle and inside of the rubber with water + dishwashing detergent also helps slip them on. It does make a mess while you are working on it so be prepared.

I have heard others mention some kind of cushioned tape like you would apply to bicycle handlebars works miracles too.

Mark
 
I would think a good pair of high impact gloves would be easier. Lol! You do wear gloves when your cutting wood?!?
 
Yea bike tape works but doesn't look factory for the restoration guys. Im a mountain biker and my mates would give me as***les for having roady stuff on my saw haha. Gloves yea I wear them mainly for handling wood rather than the saw though. So wich saws came with rubber originally? I see alot with and without was it an option or only certain models? My pm10-10 has none I kinda assumed the 10-10 as the budget first full size mac and didn't come with those kind of luxuries but then I see some that have the rubber. Are they just retrofits from a higher spec model?
 
Well guys milk line tubing 15.7mm id 4mm wall thickness looks really close to the original and feels spot on I am absolutely stoked with it. A good work out getting it on though golly. Now I used waikato/skellerup tubing but all the brands are much of a muchness. Will only work with half raps of Course. But any way on to the next job rebuilding the broken section of the pm 800 clutch cover.20180608_195329.jpg 20180608_195441.jpg20180608_200704.jpg
 
Jethro,

That does look like a great sub for the factory wrap. Good job finding it! I bet it was a bugger sliding it onto the handle though!

Rob
 
I haven't tried it but it make sense. Some guys have plugged the end of the tube and added an air fitting and blow compressed air into the tube once it has been started to make it easier to slide the tube on. It needs to be cut longer and then trimmed off once it's on the bar.

I'm going to give it a try once I find some appropriate tubing.
 
How do you remove the piston wrist pin on a PM800? Is there a hidden snap ring to remove? Or is it just pressed out using something like a deep socket of the right diameter? And how do you manage to get the needle bearings back together in the new piston when inserting the wrist pin?

Thanks,
Rob
 

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