Thats shiiiiiinnyy
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Its good to have 1 or 2 parts saws just better to get them cheap.
I have a smoked 10- 10 that contributed to 3 runners and a right hand pull that got another one cutting.
You could add a wing to the museum with what you could get for those on ebay. LOL
And I tried to check compression on my PM8200 last night without much luck. It has brand new rings and I've only run it a couple of times since rebuilding it. My compression gauge topped out at 100psi, though I could barely pull the saw over more than a few times. Clearly a problem with my tester. A best guess would be somewhere in the 170+ range.
I'd say yours is closer than mine!
Well, since the 7-10 turned into a dumpster fire, I switched to the Super 250. Have yet to run it, but it does fire on prime (sounds so good), and I can pick the saw up by the pull start - which is saying something when the PHO weighs in at ~20lbs. Haven't put the guage on it yet. Excited about this and it looks to be in pretty good condition, aside from the tank rot I posted a while back. So... new tank courtesy of Bob (that one hurt a little), and reassembly pending a couple gaskets and bolt grommets. Oil pump is kinda crusty, but functionally feels very smooth. I assume the carb will need to be run through, but I'm gonna try it out as-is and see what happens.
The oil tank bolt/nut situation cracks me up, just... why? You have to take the tank apart just to bolt it up? Not a big deal, just griping. I actually found it funny because this is my first one like this, so after unbolting it I'm like "what's that rattling sound in the oil tank?"
Good thing though, because the oil tank breather felt was just laying in the tank instead of being secured via the cotter pin, and honestly the tank popped apart with no problem - going to re-use the gasket as it didn't adhere/tear.
Still need a bar and chain. The clutch sprocket should be a .404 based on the numbers I saw (51774B) so I'm debating whether or not I want to try and find a .404 sprocket nose bar or just go hardnose. I've read a LOT of posts about one vs the other, but have yet to find a post about the real world difference other than the whole hardnose in dirty wood situation. That said, I'm thinking this would be pretty sweet:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-MC...IN-COMBO-125-250-300-450-550-D44/142856934727
The oil tank bolt/nut situation cracks me up, just... why? You have to take the tank apart just to bolt it up? Not a big deal, just griping. I actually found it funny because this is my first one like this, so after unbolting it I'm like "what's that rattling sound in the oil tank?"
Good thing though, because the oil tank breather felt was just laying in the tank instead of being secured via the cotter pin, and honestly the tank popped apart with no problem - going to re-use the gasket as it didn't adhere/tear.Still need a bar and chain. The clutch sprocket should be a .404 based on the numbers I saw (51774B) so I'm debating whether or not I want to try and find a .404 sprocket nose bar or just go hardnose. I've read a LOT of posts about one vs the other, but have yet to find a post about the real world difference other than the whole hardnose in dirty wood situation. That said, I'm thinking this would be pretty sweet:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-MC...IN-COMBO-125-250-300-450-550-D44/142856934727
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ML12
ArboristSite Guru
All this talk about gear drives and big chain!
I took my 55 out for a spin on the weekend, I think the rakers need to be taken down as it doesn't seem to cut all that well. It has the giant 5/8" mac pintail chain on it.
I rebuilt this one with new seals, bearings and rings a few years ago. It runs beautifully.
30" hard nose bar makes for a very heavy saw.
I took my 55 out for a spin on the weekend, I think the rakers need to be taken down as it doesn't seem to cut all that well. It has the giant 5/8" mac pintail chain on it.
I rebuilt this one with new seals, bearings and rings a few years ago. It runs beautifully.
30" hard nose bar makes for a very heavy saw.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Also had this S44A out to noodle some fir rounds. It cut great until it go so choked up with chips that it just stalled. One of my favourite saws!
Took in this old model 73 recently along with a model 47. It's complete, turns over and has good compression. Piston and cylinder although a little grimy appear to be in decent shape. The paint is pretty rough. Looks like at some point in its history it got a paint job. Nothing is busted but the carb diaphragm is pretty stiff and the bowl gaskets are quite crusty. I'm going to do a full restoration on it. I've already got a nos pto side main bearing and seal along with the flywheel side crank bearing. I'm going to try and find the flywheel side seal and see if I can track down some bearings and seal for the transmission and sprocket. The bar that came with it is an original 32" mcculloch bar and 1/2" Oregon 9c chipper chain. I'm stripping it down now and soon will be getting ready to get parts in the sand blaster. I've really grown to appreciate the old Mcculloch saws and old Homelite as well. Mcculloch saws had a big impact on our area here in northern idaho and were go to saws for many here. The super pro 81 and 10-10 especially were very popular here for many years!
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Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Saw starts and runs for little bit. Then it revs up and stalls out. Pretty sure gasket between carb and block is shot. Where can I find a replacement? I’m clearly not using right keywords as I keep getting carb kit results!
A what now?
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
gear drive chain, its huge compared to 3/8" pitch. This stuff makes 1/2" look small.
Let's see lots of pictures, I'm working on one also. My neighbor gave it to me. 
If you are asking about your PM8200, it has a gasket between the carb and the tank, then a rubber boot to the intake insulator, then a gasket between the insulator and the cylinder.
Ron
For restoration purposes the hard nose bar is great... but honestly I don't care for them in daily use.Well, since the 7-10 turned into a dumpster fire, I switched to the Super 250. Have yet to run it, but it does fire on prime (sounds so good), and I can pick the saw up by the pull start - which is saying something when the PHO weighs in at ~20lbs. Haven't put the guage on it yet. Excited about this and it looks to be in pretty good condition, aside from the tank rot I posted a while back. So... new tank courtesy of Bob (that one hurt a little), and reassembly pending a couple gaskets and bolt grommets. Oil pump is kinda crusty, but functionally feels very smooth. I assume the carb will need to be run through, but I'm gonna try it out as-is and see what happens.
The oil tank bolt/nut situation cracks me up, just... why? You have to take the tank apart just to bolt it up? Not a big deal, just griping. I actually found it funny because this is my first one like this, so after unbolting it I'm like "what's that rattling sound in the oil tank?"
Still need a bar and chain. The clutch sprocket should be a .404 based on the numbers I saw (51774B) so I'm debating whether or not I want to try and find a .404 sprocket nose bar or just go hardnose. I've read a LOT of posts about one vs the other, but have yet to find a post about the real world difference other than the whole hardnose in dirty wood situation. That said, I'm thinking this would be pretty sweet:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-MC...IN-COMBO-125-250-300-450-550-D44/142856934727
If I was gonna cut with it more than expeditions or gtg's I'd adapt a modern sprocket nose to it , in my opinion it just works better and is alittle easier on the thumb when oiling with a push button.
I've adapted modern bars to McCulloch, Remington, and big homelites and have enjoyed cutting with the cheaper selections.
Thanks! This is more along the lines of a real world answer I was looking for. From what I've read, it's not hard to adapt a D009 to fit, so I might go that route. Do you modify bars to fit, or use adapters? Or both. I've read other threads about bar adaptation, but curious what your experience is since you mentioned it.
Brownthumb
ArboristSite Operative
Well for the big homelite using a D009 bar mount is pretty close , the slot needs wided maybe a mm and the adjustment holes bored just a little ,same is pretty much the same for the Remington. The 10 series mac is one I've done a k095 husky bar for but it oils through the adjustment hole on top so any bar you put a slot down from the rail is gonna oil.
I did use a D025 mount for my 088 and that required using my dremel to make a taller oil slot along the bar and widening the slot from 12mm to 14mm for the bar studs.
The only adapter I've used is a spring cut to the bar width and slide over the studs or a factory s clip that was supplied with XL-12 bars.
All these were pretty doable in an afternoon and if you get a cheap bar you won't screw up an expensive antique or pricey custom built bar.
Air filter? Yeah no joke .
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