mission failure

[Mitchell]

few pic sof a job I did the other day. 2 hours and no pay argh... How would you folks tackle this...
No access for machines. I sucked up 40' on my 9/16 line before i even started to apply pull. Im guessing cable or a static line would have helped. I have a 3g come along I should have tried on a direct pull. Also, the stump was leaning 20 degrees away from pull direction. I messed around with different things but my when prussics started to fail and slip I had to admit defeat... I was out of time and they were not to worried about it anyways.

 

[treeclimber jul]

Hard to tell what you were trying to do. Nice clear pics though

 

[Mitchell]

sorry

I was trying to flop the wind throw back down. Winching with a 3g winch on a 5 to 1 MA on a 200 foot bull line. I had sorted a few smaller ones out for the neighbours already. Im guesing the thing was 5 plus tonnes and was 10' high by 20' wide.

 

[treeclimber jul]

when prussics start to give thats not good. Maby if you were able to get higher on the ancer tree it might have helped, but not being there... easy to say how, but words are cheap.

 

[(WLL)]

looks like a waste of time and useless equipment abuse. if the stump stays why does it matter how it lays? if they dont want to pay to remove it than id leave it how it is.

 

[gr8scott72]

looks like a waste of time and useless equipment abuse. if the stump stays why does it matter how it lays? if they dont want to pay to remove it than id leave it how it is.

I agree, leave it or grind it where it sits.

 

[Sprig]

Hard to tell what you were trying to do. Nice clear pics though

Like messin up a picnic No idea either Will read on............




Serge

Edit> okay, read it, hm, couple of sticks of 80% comes to mind

 

[hornett22]

i'd be higher for an anchor point as well.

i'd have more chain in there too.i agree,leave it.

 

[CJ-7]

A D-8 with a winch might have flopped her back up, but for what?

 

[AngelofDarkness]

A D-8 with a winch might have flopped her back up, but for what?

What won't a D-8 move?

 

[Mitchell]

tidying up

They wanted the stumps over to tidy things up a bit and allow a little more ocean view. Next time they know to call me when they fall; as the fresh roots will snap them back. In fairness a flush cut stump level to the grade is much more ethetically pleasing [to them] then a 10' foot by 20' wind throw stump in your back yard. The retentention strip between the ocean and their back yard stops them from seeding it but they can clean it up. Personally I like it just the way it is....

Higher anchor would have helped but I had no high point behind and my in line redirect was a low stump.

D8 would have been real nice, although it is suprising how many times I have had to fall trees as the d8 could not push em over. I worked with a d11 in the bush once, wow, makes an 8 look like a toy.

 

[AngelofDarkness]

Theres a D11? Wow.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caterpillar_D11

I stand corrected.

 

[BC WetCoast]

They wanted the stumps over to tidy things up a bit and allow a little more ocean view. Next time they know to call me when they fall; as the fresh roots will snap them back. In fairness a flush cut stump level to the grade is much more ethetically pleasing [to them] then a 10' foot by 20' wind throw stump in your back yard. The retentention strip between the ocean and their back yard stops them from seeding it but they can clean it up. Personally I like it just the way it is....

Higher anchor would have helped but I had no high point behind and my in line redirect was a low stump.

D8 would have been real nice, although it is suprising how many times I have had to fall trees as the d8 could not push em over. I worked with a d11 in the bush once, wow, makes an 8 look like a toy.

Could you not buck the log off at would have been low stump height?

Next option, would be to take a pressure washer out there, blow all the dirt off the roots and then cut the roots one at a time. Providing they are willing to pay for it.

 

[Aaction]

Clean it up best you can, then split it apart with wedges and jacks. Once you get the first chunk out, it gets a lot easier.

 

[TimberMcPherson]

Get in gas powered water blaster, a pick and prybar, clean off the roots and cut them off with old saw or axe, that will take a little size off them. Or start making thermite.

 

[Mitchell]

bucking

Could you not buck the log off at would have been low stump height?

Next option, would be to take a pressure washer out there, blow all the dirt off the roots and then cut the roots one at a time. Providing they are willing to pay for it.

I did buck the tree off the stump; unfortunately it wants to fall into the log; it had me diving out face first when it partially went. I suggested the pump and water treatment, but the cost had them settle on planting clematis. If I had my way I would dynamite it ha ha...

 

[eljefe]

Hi,
Nice pictures and nice view. I can see why they don't want to look at a root ball. However, I will try and describe a method I have successfully used in the past. I hope my english is up to the job. Use a long 6 inch by 6 inch timbper or a log, as long as you can handle 10 feet, at least. It will be setting not quite upright, like a flagpole but will lean a bit toward the stump. The bull line will go across the top of it and this will be your redirect- 10 or 12 feet in the air above the sump. It should set closer to the stump than to the achor. Stand to the side and you will see that you now have an angle of pull that is higher- better. The pressure on the timber is mostly verticle- parrellel to the grain- so a 6 by 6 plenty strong. Once the timber is sort of verticle- not more than a 20 degree from verticle lean- it is not safe to be close to, hold it in place with lines to either side. The only two safe places are behind the anchor and behind the stump. As you pull, you might want to block up the stump, so as not to lose the distance you have gained. As the stump comes up it will reach a point where either it falls nicely back into place or the timber will kick out. Whether this method will work for you, I can not say. I can say it has worked for me on many occasions. One last thing, as my dad would have said, "Stay the hell out of the way of the timber, Bud." If the ground is soft and the end starts to sink into the ground, do not put a flat piece of wood under it. this is not safe it just allows the butt end to have something to skid on. Bolt some cross pieces a few incher above the bottom. As the cross pieces come in contact with the ground they will stop the downward movement of the butt end of the timber into the ground and the little stub of timber below that will act to keep the butt end of the timber in place. Best of luck.

 

[Mitchell]

great advice

Hi,
Nice pictures and nice view. I can see why they don't want to look at a root ball. However, I will try and describe a method I have successfully used in the past. I hope my english is up to the job. Use a long 6 inch by 6 inch timbper or a log, as long as you can handle 10 feet, at least. It will be setting not quite upright, like a flagpole but will lean a bit toward the stump. The bull line will go across the top of it and this will be your redirect- 10 or 12 feet in the air above the sump. It should set closer to the stump than to the achor. Stand to the side and you will see that you now have an angle of pull that is higher- better. The pressure on the timber is mostly verticle- parrellel to the grain- so a 6 by 6 plenty strong. Once the timber is sort of verticle- not more than a 20 degree from verticle lean- it is not safe to be close to, hold it in place with lines to either side. The only two safe places are behind the anchor and behind the stump. As you pull, you might want to block up the stump, so as not to lose the distance you have gained. As the stump comes up it will reach a point where either it falls nicely back into place or the timber will kick out. Whether this method will work for you, I can not say. I can say it has worked for me on many occasions. One last thing, as my dad would have said, "Stay the hell out of the way of the timber, Bud." If the ground is soft and the end starts to sink into the ground, do not put a flat piece of wood under it. this is not safe it just allows the butt end to have something to skid on. Bolt some cross pieces a few incher above the bottom. As the cross pieces come in contact with the ground they will stop the downward movement of the butt end of the timber into the ground and the little stub of timber below that will act to keep the butt end of the timber in place. Best of luck.

I think what your describing is a cantilever. Brilliant, simple and effective. that would have worked, oh well next time. Dynamite would still be more fun...

 

[phased1]

Hi,
Nice pictures and nice view. I can see why they don't want to look at a root ball. However, I will try and describe a method I have successfully used in the past. I hope my english is up to the job. Use a long 6 inch by 6 inch timbper or a log, as long as you can handle 10 feet, at least. It will be setting not quite upright, like a flagpole but will lean a bit toward the stump. The bull line will go across the top of it and this will be your redirect- 10 or 12 feet in the air above the sump. It should set closer to the stump than to the achor. Stand to the side and you will see that you now have an angle of pull that is higher- better. The pressure on the timber is mostly verticle- parrellel to the grain- so a 6 by 6 plenty strong. Once the timber is sort of verticle- not more than a 20 degree from verticle lean- it is not safe to be close to, hold it in place with lines to either side. The only two safe places are behind the anchor and behind the stump. As you pull, you might want to block up the stump, so as not to lose the distance you have gained. As the stump comes up it will reach a point where either it falls nicely back into place or the timber will kick out. Whether this method will work for you, I can not say. I can say it has worked for me on many occasions. One last thing, as my dad would have said, "Stay the hell out of the way of the timber, Bud." If the ground is soft and the end starts to sink into the ground, do not put a flat piece of wood under it. this is not safe it just allows the butt end to have something to skid on. Bolt some cross pieces a few incher above the bottom. As the cross pieces come in contact with the ground they will stop the downward movement of the butt end of the timber into the ground and the little stub of timber below that will act to keep the butt end of the timber in place. Best of luck.

That sounds like good advice, I'll have to file that one in the ol' brain for later.
If you tried the suggestion from above plus left the tree about 8 or 10' long from the stump and tied off to the end of it you'd have two levers working for you as it comes upright.....
I've had to right lots of blown pines with a mini excavator and it was often easier if the stump was left 5 or 6 feet long and flush cut afterwards.
Good luck next time!

 

[Mitchell]

hind sight

That sounds like good advice, I'll have to file that one in the ol' brain for later.
If you tried the suggestion from above plus left the tree about 8 or 10' long from the stump and tied off to the end of it you'd have two levers working for you as it comes upright.....
I've had to right lots of blown pines with a mini excavator and it was often easier if the stump was left 5 or 6 feet long and flush cut afterwards.
Good luck next time!

is 20 20, but that combo will work for most scenarios for sure. Thanks