Most under rated chainsaw????

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I remember narrow kerf blades first on table saws. On my 353, the guide bar has a little more flex, so it might not hold up as well to heavier use. And the chain is a little harder to find. But it makes sense that it would make better use of the available horsepower, and has worked well for me.

Philbert
what kind of use we talking here, ive never bent a bar i bent a tip on my 372 slightly after a log rolled the wrong way i dont understand how people bend bars unless it was a freak tree problem my incident was not listening to my gut about switching sides to finish a cut i just was trying to get it done. set it in the vice quick tweek. love that old sandvik windsor got to get a tip finaly blew it out after running the 8 pin i think the carlton tips will work since there the same manufacturer i guess from what ive figured out
 
I have not personally bent a bar, but I have seen many that were bent, pinched, etc. I am happy with the narrow kerf for my use, but some other guys like heavier duty components.

Philbert
Bar bending an 063 is also common in the logging industry. I've also seen firewood collectors do it, or put it this way: they keep showing me bent 063 bars and ask me to straighten them as best as I can. It seldom works very well. Once bent, they are usually toast.

There is one other advantage to using an 050 bar. After it has a few hundred hours on it, the bar will usually accept 058 chain as well as 050. Once the groove gets as wide as 0.057", the 058 chain will usually fit. You can check this with a feeler gauge collection.
 
This thread started with a Mac 10-10 as an under rated saw. In another thread I mentioned that my uncle left Mac for Jonsereds about 1970. A 10-10 is about 1970. I would put my rubber mounted 13lb Jonsereds 52 (produced starting in 1971) against any Mac 10-10. A 10-10 is one my earliest recollections of a chainsaw. Under rated is not a term I would use to describe them.
 
Bar bending an 063 is also common in the logging industry. I've also seen firewood collectors do it, or put it this way: they keep showing me bent 063 bars and ask me to straighten them as best as I can. It seldom works very well. Once bent, they are usually toast.

There is one other advantage to using an 050 bar. After it has a few hundred hours on it, the bar will usually accept 058 chain as well as 050. Once the groove gets as wide as 0.057", the 058 chain will usually fit. You can check this with a feeler gauge collection.
ya ive seen them were downm that does work i had a bar like that dont think all the hours were from me lol but some of these other bars i got are getting there but there .058 anyways i had got my sandvik 24" bar rails rolled last summer still havent ordered a tip for that got to soon
 
This thread started with a Mac 10-10 as an under rated saw. In another thread I mentioned that my uncle left Mac for Jonsereds about 1970. A 10-10 is about 1970. I would put my rubber mounted 13lb Jonsereds 52 (produced starting in 1971) against any Mac 10-10. A 10-10 is one my earliest recollections of a chainsaw. Under rated is not a term I would use to describe them.

the old jonsereds are nice
 
I remember narrow kerf blades first on table saws. On my 353, the guide bar has a little more flex, so it might not hold up as well to heavier use. And the chain is a little harder to find. But it makes sense that it would make better use of the available horsepower, and has worked well for me.

Philbert

The NK bars are fine in 13 and 15", so I assume they are in 16" as well. The real issue is there is no "yellow" chisel chain availiable in .325 NK.
 
i love my 353 re work the muffler and an it breaths much better just a nice saw. fell in love at first site my first decent saw it pulls a 18 3/8 bar well for me. thinking about going back to .325 with an 8 pin its tricky to get the 3/8 chain on the bar with the bigger rim on that saw tight but it goes on got to roll it on then easy after is stretches. just don't go overboard with the depths. but ive gone to a couple chains a year from 4 chains and less files also the only reason i dont run the .325 right now but for tipping trees its fine but bucking on the muddy rained on timber on the ground eats .325 chain. now i got an old 372xpg when that thing warms up its an animal of 70ccs

By all means go back to .325 on the 353, and think 7-pin instead of 8-pin. ;)
 
The MS250 is by far the best of that class Stihl saw, cut almost as fast as a 290 and is light Steve

It is light and has decent power for its size - but apart from that it is totally appalling! A vibe monster with an overwhelming feel of soft plastic, and a really bad air filtration. Working on it is a major PITA.
 
It is light and has decent power for its size - but apart from that it is totally appalling! A vibe monster with an overwhelming feel of soft plastic, and a really bad air filtration. Working on it is a major PITA.

Your right, I wasn't saying it a great saw by any means, just a lot better than a MS290 which barely cut faster and is heavy, When working on a MS250 you have to wonder what the engineers were thinking. Steve
 
Back to under rated chainsaws. One I haven't heard mentioned is the Poulan 3000/3300 and their Sears counterparts. First saw I ever bought new was a gray Craftsman 3.0 with an 18 inch bar. Still have that saw and its on its 3rd bar. I used that saw to cut up many seasons worth of fire wood along with using it when I was doing lots of landscaping on the side.

They are a little heavy but the anti vibe set-up works real good and they are super easy to tear apart. The oiler is adjustable. Mine will cut right along with a friends stock Stihl 260. I had a Sears best 3.3 that was near mint that I sold some years ago that I wish I had back. That saw would flat out, outcut any Farm boss or a 455 Rancher. Mine would pull the stock 20 inch bar just fine, but it liked an 18 much better.

You hear all the talk about the much heavier Poulan 3400/3700 all metal models. I'm not a fan. Just to big and heavy for me and they are shakers for sure. Give me revs over weight and torque.
 
Right now the running saws we have is a Stihl M180 and a Husqvarna 455 Rancher. I've had the MS180 for about 5 or 6 years, good little saw for what it made for. About 3 years ago a bad storm brought down a huge arse limb off of an Oak that has a trunk over 60" across that and the limb was way more than the MS180 could handle and it was a Sat. evening and the cows couldn't get by it. The only place around that was open was Lowe's so off to Lowe's we went and bought a 455. Yea it's a tad heavy for it's size but so far it has ran like a champ, my brother has used it here for us more than anyone else and he has a stable full of Stihl's and he liked the saw but did say it seemed a bit heavy. If it had been any other time we would have bought something from a saw shop. If the 028WB I had worked on would have ran more than hour and a half after having worked on we could have took care of with it. One day I'll get my trusty ol' 028 running again, I've had it for about 30 years and it used to be a good saw.
 
By all means go back to .325 on the 353, and think 7-pin instead of 8-pin. ;)
ya definately im going to try the 8 pin though i crave chain speed lol. if there is a double reply i had problems posting the first reply. i will try the 7 and 8 the way my saw runs im sure it will pull the 8 this saw has great upper mid range power for that chain speed and thinking about some basic port work widen the intake and exhaust and i tad higher duration on the intake by playing with the skirt. hmm the piston skirt shape could change things too ? were can i get info on this kinda stuff around here, i want to learn ! lol
 
...... and thinking about some basic port work widen the intake and exhaust and i tad higher duration on the intake by playing with the skirt. hmm the piston skirt shape could change things too ? were can i get info on this kinda stuff around here, i want to learn ! lol


A lot have been posted here on that subject, start digging trough the archives. ;)
 
I would say the McCulloch 10-10 E and 3-10E with Electric start Very good idea but did not last and nobody talks about them like they were never made. I thought it had a starter motor with teeth on flywheel like Briggs but no just uses a coil on flywheel and brushes on motor to help it spin and charges the battery, they are only electric start chainsaw in the world that are built like this, the other saws are or a little bit different with starter kits but not part of the saw.
 

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