ms 261 8 tooth sprocket

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I agree. Only the strongest 90cc or bigger saws are really better off with an 8-pin rim, IMHO.

So if your running a 3/8x7 on a 261 arent you doin the same thing as .325x8 ?..seems like alot of guys run 3/8 on 261s and they never complain...the one you did for me rips with an 18" bar and .325x8
 
I gave up on 8 toof sprockets.
Even on 70cc + saws.

It depends on the bar length and what you use the saw for - my MS361xp was very happy with 3/8"x8 and a 15" bar for limbing, and a little more. My 1970 Jonsereds Raket 621 never had anything but 3/8"x8 on it, but that is of course a lower rpm saw, that really needs it.
 
So if your running a 3/8x7 on a 261 arent you doin the same thing as .325x8 ?..seems like alot of guys run 3/8 on 261s and they never complain...the one you did for me rips with an 18" bar and .325x8

See post #12.

On the 50cc saws I have compared on, the cutting speed was the same (21LP vs. 73LP), but .325x7 was just a tad faster (in both 7 and 11" birch) on both saws. Those saws were a stock (minus spark screen) NE346xpg and a PS-5100SH, the same 16" bars and chain was used on both saws.

New chain, filed two strokes before use, and one light stroke between "sessions".
 
An 8-pin 3/8 rim running regular 3/8 is WAY too big for any 50cc saw, ported or not.
All I had on hand was and 8 pin so I tried it. The 7 pin is on order. But I was surprised at how well the saw cut compared to the stock. 325 set up. The full 3/8 8 pin was a bit much until I went to the skip chain and opened up the muffler the rpms came up and no bogging at all even in dried oak. I compared this set up against a stock 18" 362 tonight and beat it cut after cut. It might be way to big but it sure cuts my log pile good. I'll let you know what the 7 pin does when I get it.
blsnelling, Would you suggest running the low profile 3/8? vs the full? My problem with the .325 was pinching and clogging in the wood pile. The full clears the saw chips great and no pinching.
Any input is appreciated.
 
I got a couple saws that a 8 is faster with a pretty long bar but there not your average saws. I don't believe I've ever ran a stock saw that would handle a 8 with 28" plus full comp but my idea of handle and someone else's can b lots different. I can't imagine any 60cc saw liking a 3\8 8 at any bar length.
 
I can run a 36" full comp with a 8pin on a 066 i have but I wouldn't say I can lean on it, and it's 240lb of compression and is very very strong.
 
18 and 20" bars are a whole different world compared to 30+ bars. I just recently found out how much saw it does take to turn a long chain with a big gear.
 
I don't know about short bars but 2 foot and up it takes a mighty strong saw to b any faster with a 8. I'm talking about stout 90cc saws much less 60cc ones.


I agree with you in the case of the big saws and long bars the 7 pin would help. And you guys could be right in the end of this experiment. But for now

It seems its all about gearing with this saw.
IMO This 261 cm revs damn high with .325 chain and 18" bar using chain speed to make it cut. I think it cuts very good for a 7 pin .325 but not as great as the 3/8 set up. They just don't clear the chips well in the cut clogging and pinching the chain in the bar. They have a ample supply of torque in the engine, so I decided to use the added weight resistance of the full 3/8 chain to lose a few thousand RPM( no load). Then I used my 8 pin to speed up the lighter RMF skip chain and exhaust work to gain some back. This combination gave the 3/8 8 pin a huge advantage over the stock set up with no clogging to date.

My tach is broken so I can only go by the noticeable hearing on the RPM change. I will get a new tach to verify my findings.

So far Its out cutting our stock 362 3/8 7pin with 18" bar and is lighter. I'm researching all the stihl chains and drivers now. I think the ps 3 would be faster cutting but I'm not racing just having fun and working with it around the house. I'm not a pro just messing around. Any suggestions? I might just give them a try.
PS I'm thinking of seeing if this 362 carb will fit it what do you think? Your input is appreciated!
 
I don't know about short bars but 2 foot and up it takes a mighty strong saw to b any faster with a 8. I'm talking about stout 90cc saws much less 60cc ones.

You've just not ran the right 65cc saw. :)


Now don't get me wrong, I'm not advocating that everybody should run an 8 pin. It takes power to turn em. 90% of the time I run 7 pin rims on all my firewood getters. Most of the time 20" bars too.

But all my work saws are stock....
 
I have a 034 that runs a 3/8 8 with a 18" bar very well, it's much faster with 3/8 than 325. Sprocket size depends on how u fix a chain and how u use a saw, if u can lean on any saw I have its dull but that's how I set one up, my saw with somebody else's chain may run a bigger gear or need a smaller one, there's to many variables to say one sprocket will run x amount of chain on any saw.
 
I have a 034 that runs a 3/8 8 with a 18" bar very well, it's much faster with 3/8 than 325. Sprocket size depends on how u fix a chain and how u use a saw, if u can lean on any saw I have its dull but that's how I set one up, my saw with somebody else's chain may run a bigger gear or need a smaller one, there's to many variables to say one sprocket will run x amount of chain on any saw.

Agreed. :cheers:
 
I
You've just not ran the right 65cc saw. :)


Now don't get me wrong, I'm not advocating that everybody should run an 8 pin. It takes power to turn em. 90% of the time I run 7 pin rims on all my firewood getters. Most of the time 20" bars too.

But all my work saws are stock....
The only stock saw I have is a 390xp and only have one saw under 70 cc.
 
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