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UPDATE: I believe I have successfully installed the clutch side seal. I lubed it with 2 stroke oil and then tapped it into place using a 19mm deep well socket. I am not sure how to confirm it is in properly, but it looks to be seated flush, blow the lip on the case, and does not appear damaged. went in fairly easy with light tapping and some minor adjustments at the end.
Both sides are in, and the look like the are in properly, however I must note that it takes a bit more effort to turn the crankshaft, though it does turn freely and sound ok. Is it possible that I installed the seals to deep which is causing the resistance when I try to turn the crankshaft?
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You probably have the bearings side-loaded. They aren't in line with the axis of the crank. I would put the FW nut on the end of the shaft and give it a few whacks, and take a board and hold it on the clutch end of the crank and whack it a few times. This will usually square everything up. Sometimes you have to back the case bolts off and tap the ends of the crank. Then turn them in a few turns, tap the crank, and repeat until you have it cinched down.
FYI, new bearings and seals are going to feel a little tight. But it sounds like your's are too tight.
If I've been following this correctly, he hasn't changed the bearings, only the seals. He's not likely to have side loaded the bearings just changing the seals is he?
CD might be worth checking if the service manual gives a dimension for the depth of the seal. I'm not sure it does, but if you can wait a few hours, I can take my vernier gauge to my old crankcase later today and give you an approx depth from that? Shame to have to pull a newly installed seal if you don't have to.
I re-read the thread and I guess I'm confusing it with an 026 rebuild thread as I didn't see any mention of replacing the bearings.
I do have some concern that he may have some shrapnel floating around in the bearings, though they usually just make the crank stop as opposed to making it difficult to spin.
While it is possible to seat the seals so deeply that they bind the crank, it is nearly impossible to seat them that deeply and not have them pop into the crankcase. If the seal lip is pretty close to flush with the top of the crankcase and it looks fairly square with the case, I would guess it is just the seal binding some and will relax with some run time.
OP, can you post a pic of the seals installed?
I've just noticed this too. Look at the shoulder on the crank on mine just above the seal lip, you can't see this shoulder on yours, so maybe your crankshaft it already off centre?
I've just noticed this too. Look at the shoulder on the crank on mine just above the seal lip, you can't see this shoulder on yours, so maybe your crankshaft it already off centre?
Was the resistance felt before or after the piston/cylinder was put back on?
I went through a similar scenario when I put new bearings and seals in my 044. The seal does not seal against the shoulder on the crank. It seals against the oiler bushing, It doesn't look right...I know, but its the way it is.
I had to make a phonecall to Tennessee to figure that out.......where's Randy when you need him .
I went through a similar scenario when I put new bearings and seals in my 044. The seal does not seal against the shoulder on the crank. It seals against the oiler bushing, It doesn't look right...I know, but its the way it is.
I had to make a phonecall to Tennessee to figure that out.......where's Randy when you need him .
to reiterate what I told possum, my boss' dad seems very confident that the seal is in level and the compression will align/slightly push the seal out. He says the oil pump will provide resistance on the other side. To be clear, you think the seal is installed too deep and needs to be reinstalled? Thanks for jumping in!
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