Muffler Bolt issues with my Poulan PP295

[Trout 2003]

The Poulan PP295 I use for limbing will not run for more then a couple seconds right now before shutting off and I am trying to get to the spark arrester to clean it but can't for the life of me get one of the muffler bolts out. I got one but can't get the other. Before I go buy a serious torque driver I wanted to be sure that I wasn't trying to remove something that can't be removed. The poulan manuals aren't the best and I am new at this "at home maintenance" of my saws. The bolt is super crazy tight though so I am afraid I am going to snap it off once I get enough leverage with the right touqer. Any suggestions for making this easier or anyone have a similar experience??????

 

[PES+]

Do you know which type your have?

A pic would help as there are three different variations.

If it is the bolt into the cylinder heat will help.

http://wssemw.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF

look it up and tell me which type muffler you have and which bolt is stuck

 

[Trout 2003]

I've got the type 3 and the bolt closest to the chain in the one that is currently stuck.

 

[PES+]

So it is the one down inside the muffler?

Take off all plastics that you can remove and CAREFULLY heat the cylinder boss where the bolt screws in........use the smallest torch you can find, beg, borrow etc

Then when it is hot you can spray some penetrating oil with the extension tube into the tube in the muffler where the bolt is and behind the muffler between the muffler and the cylinder.

PB Blaster works pretty well but BE CAREFUL......the stuff can ignite pretty easily at high temps and it will make you hairless in an instant.

Do it outside and keep your body away from it.

Once you get the bolt to start to turn....work it back and forth a bit

IE loosen it until it starts to get hard to turn then retighten then loosen rinse and repeat (add penetrant in the muffler bolt hole)

 

[PES+]

Just so I am certain of which bolt........which number on the IPL?

#14 or #15?

 

[Trout 2003]

Part #14 it is. The one on the left. I hate it!

 

[PES+]

OK....that was the one I thought you meant

 

[djmercer1]

i have a pp265 that had extremely tight muffler bolts. on mine the bolt finally gave but i did feel it twist/start failure. if the bolt breaks of in the cylinder take care and you can remove the stub without damaging anything else. my muffler also had a spacer sleeves over the bolts to maintain the muffler shape when the bolts were torqued down, these can also cold weld to the bolts, so it may not only be the thread seized.

when i took the muffler of mine, i removed the spark arestor screen, opened the muffler louvre vents and removed the carb limit caps. tuned properly the saw is now a different animal and im not totally ashamed to use it.

 

[Trout 2003]

Sounds cool but for now I just want to get it up and running again and am pretty sure that is the problem. I hope I can get that bolt loose without breaking it.

 

[Fish]

Put the other bolt back in and leave it alone. Don't risk it.

What makes you think that is your problem?

 

[Trout 2003]

General Maintance item I have never done (cleaning the spark arrestor). It could also be the fuel uptake assembly I suppose that sits in the gas tank. Basically the saw fire up and run great for 4 seconds and then dies, even when I pump the trigger and give it gas. Just seems to be chokes or starving for fuel. It does not at all appear to be an idle issue. Any other suggestions would be welcome. I know at some point that arrestor is going to have to be cleaned. It's a 2 stroke so it will need it just like any other 2 stroke.

I'm an new to services 2 stroke motors but I am also pretty handy and do not want to pay for a shop unless I really have to. Any advise is welcome as I learn.

 

[Fish]

Put the muffler bolts back in, you can break that one off some other time.

Take off the top cover, put your fingers on either side of the carb and
try to wiggle it, if you see any movement of that or the cylinder, or anywhere
follow that route first. Next, you need to go through the fuel system, but check the wiggle first, and get back to us.

 

[Trout 2003]

OK, I will try that later tonight when I return from cutting and get back. Thanks.

 

[Trout 2003]

OK, I finally got to look last night and there was no wiggle. Everything is solid as a rock. I bought a new fuel uptake/filter today and installed that as well as a new spark plug. Saw is still running the same. I can get it to fire and run but it dies within 3-5 seconds. When it is about to die if I pull the choke out it fires back up. I can keep it running by choking in an out if that provides any info.

With this saw issue and my 6 years old sons eTon 2 stroke 40cc quad not firing I am seriously in 2-stroke hell right now! I go to bed in a bad mood every night.

 

[Fish]

You need to go through the carb, rebuild it...........................

 

[kevin j]

if the choke helps, it's not exhaust restriction.
+1 vote on carb or fuel pickup.
does it overfuel and die? had an old poulan do that within couple seconds evry startup..
or can you run it forever on choke?

 

[Trout 2003]

Obviously I have never done that before and it sounds difficult. Is it something that is easy to mess up. Like I said, I am handy in carpentry and things but an rather new to 2 stroke servicing. Just don't want to bite off more then I can chew. Would you happen to know of any info anywhere that I could refererence aside from the parts guide?

 

[Trout 2003]

I have no idea if it is overfueling. Not even sure how you would tell such a thing. I would hate to tear the carb apart only to find out it is something else, something more simple. It seems to be the last "obvious" thing remaining though.

 

[PES+]

The whole carb is not much $

The entire carb to swap out is around $40 new

 

[Trout 2003]

That's more like it I think. I'm shooting at the hip with this question as I should really inspect before I ask......is it tricky to swap a carb or just nuts and bolts?