Muffler Bolt issues with my Poulan PP295

[PES+]

Is there a good smaller shop near you?

It may not be the carb at all and you could very well end up with more in parts than the saw is worth before you get it fixed.

Coils can also cause your observed problems too so It is likely a good idea to have someone check it out as it may save you money in the end.

 

[Trout 2003]

I have a couple small engine shops near by that I could go to. Guess it's that hurdle of getting hammered for a diagnosis like I am going to get.

 

[PES+]

If you expect to get stung

You will believe you got stung no matter what you get charged and no matter what the outcome.

Go in with a good attitude and ask nicely and I bet you may be surprised at the results

HOWEVER

If the guy at the counter says "Oh a Pull-on piece of @#$%"

Leave and go on the the next shop

 

[Trout 2003]

That's not necessarily true. I just like to save the money whenever possible but when I have to I have to. Thanks for the advice.... I will take it and run with it!

 

[Fish]

Heck, ship it to me, I will take care of it no charge. It will cost you $11
each way, and maybe a few bucks in parts.

 

[Fish]

I am trying to get into chainsaw heaven, maybe blot out a few of my
red marks......................................................

 

[PES+]

I wouldn't trust him

He might put some of those Husqvarna parts in it

 

[scottr]

Hey Trout, are you trying to start your saw in the half choke (fast idle)position? The start procedure is on page 10 of the PP295 Type 3 owners manual. http://72.3.225.179/manuals/545123578e.pdf

 

[AngelofDarkness]

I have the opposite problem with the muff bolts on my PP330. They like to vibrate loose and come off.

 

[scottr]

I have the opposite problem with the muff bolts on my PP330. They like to vibrate loose and come off.

Does that make it loud and dangerous? My PP220 has something on the muffler bolt threads and the heatshield holes are stamped to help retain the bolts. What does your heatshield look like?

 

[Trout 2003]

Ya, I have started it correctly. It will run on fast idle for about 5 seconds before petering out and dying. I don't get the 20-30 seconds fast idle like they recommend.

Fish, you have a PM.

 

[Trout 2003]

Fish, you've exceeded you PM box capacity. trying to send you one. I'll try again in 30 minutes or so.

 

[superfire]

carb cleaner

run down and buy some carb cleaner in a spray can also buy carb cleaner that can run in the fuel tank. i run sea foam fuel cleaner in old gas too get the saws i fix for homeowners running close too normal. it will generally make the saw behave in a more normal way. carb cleaner run in the gas and spray in the carb is the first thing i would try before carb overhaul:monkey:

 

[AngelofDarkness]

Does that make it loud and dangerous? My PP220 has something on the muffler bolt threads and the heatshield holes are stamped to help retain the bolts. What does your heatshield look like?

No, the only thing that really makes my saws loud and dangerous is the operator!

My bolts just look like standard muffler bolts, similar to those on a Husky. No real heat shield there either, to speak of.

 

[Fish]

Ok I cleared out seven of them, I try to keep the ones that are "historic".

 

[scottr]

No, the only thing that really makes my saws loud and dangerous is the operator!

My bolts just look like standard muffler bolts, similar to those on a Husky. No real heat shield there either, to speak of.

AoD, they are standard muffler bolts but mine have a sticky pucky on the threads and the aluminum plate behind the muffler has three peened areas around each bolt hole to help make an interferrence to the threads. Look at the holes on your aluminum plate. Something that you could do is to take the muffler off and install the aluminum plate and bolts and you could see where to peen the aluminum plate.

 

[Fish]

Here is a pic for Trout

 

[Trout 2003]

Cool. I'm going to try and do it this evening or tomorrow. I would LOVE to get that thing up and running. It is so much lighter then the STIHL for limbing the small stuff.

 

[Trout 2003]

Take a pair of needlenose pliers and yank out the little plastic caps off of your carb mixture screws,
they are brown and tan, or red and blue.
Then turn each screw 1/2 turn to the left and start the saw. Let us know on the forum what that did.
I will put up a pic of the carb.

OK, so I jumped ahead a little and took the carb off the saw, gave it a good exterior cleaning, put it all back together, Adjusted the screws you mentioned about 1/2 turn to counter clockwise, fire up the saw and the same thing happened. It may have run on choke a few seconds long then it did before.

This was the first carb I had ever taken out so to me it was a huge step in teh right direction that I could pull it out and put it back together and have it act just the same......semi working. That's a small battle won in itself and I feel more confident now. I suppose I have to take the actual carb apart however to really clean it rather then just cleaning off the outside?? What should I try now fish???? This will be the basis of confidence for fixing the sons 2 stroke quad too.

 

[Fish]

Yes, take it off again and take it apart. On the side with 4 screws,
there is, under the gasket and diaphram, a spring/lever/needle.
Remove this as well, over a box or pan, so you don't lose that spring.
Remove the gasket/diaphram from the other side as well.
With a can of carb cleaner w/straw, blow out all of the tiny holes, especially the one under the screen, hold it up to some light to verify that it is clear.
Check the diaphrams for tears or stiffness, if so, get a new kit, walbro
k20-wat. Reassemble, using the pic I supplied for reference, and that should take care of it. There are more things you could do in the carb, but this will
take care of most problems.