Muffler Mod-ms310 And Ms361

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I'm waiting on a muffler mod on my MS310 until its fully broke in. From reading on this site, you'll have to remove the limiter caps and reinstall after adjustment. Other than that it is how inventive you want to be with putting new holes in your muffler.

Have both of you run each others saws for a comparison? I got the 310 because I didn't figure the 361 was worth the extra $200. I cut about 4-6 cords of hardwood per year and have been impressed with the 310. Would you say the 361 is worth the extra?

I have run both saws alot, and I would say you would forget about the 310 if you had a 361, but I felt I wasn't getting 200-250 dollars more, I feel the 310 is more bang for the buck. the 310 will cut anything the 361 will, and if it doesn't well you proably need a bigger saw anyhow, save the 250 and put it towards a 441/460. The 361 is a little more nimble feeling, and the anti vib is awesome. but not 250 awesome!!!
 
Just like a dragster,more power less fuel economy.but i like the sound of mods.:chainsaw: :chainsaw:

I agree to a point, but that didn't work that way in my Powerstroke when I put a 80hp chip ,larger exhaust and intercooler I got a LITTLE bit better mileage pulling, but on the street no way, I drive it like a hot rod it's to fun not to.
 
Mike, I always liked ya, but this is sounding kinda sappy-esque. Modded mufflers only (not internal engine mods) might increase fuel consumption 1/10 tank...It is not like we are talking a 2:1 ratio over a stock saw. I am talking about minimal open increase, not a 2" hole...

Look at the MS 460 vs the older 046 mags that had a dual port cover and larger side outlet hole....They didn't get that horrible cut milelage you are talking about......

There is a point when muffler mods hurt performance( well not really performance, but wasted fuel and extra noise).

The big fuel consumption comes from woods porting.

I know this from first hand modding. There is also a point that you can make a saw run better than stock with internal mods, and not lose all the practical fuel economy, but the saw will not run to its full potential. It is a trade off.

Long story short, muffler mods aren't going to cut your fuel milelage by a drastic amount. We are talking 1-2 cuts difference per tank, not 10.... as long as they are done within reason. that is one area where the 80% port area comes into play
 
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I have run both saws alot, and I would say you would forget about the 310 if you had a 361, but I felt I wasn't getting 200-250 dollars more, I feel the 310 is more bang for the buck. the 310 will cut anything the 361 will, and if it doesn't well you proably need a bigger saw anyhow, save the 250 and put it towards a 441/460. The 361 is a little more nimble feeling, and the anti vib is awesome. but not 250 awesome!!!

Agreed!! I haven't run a 361 and understand that it's a better saw, but the price difference just didn't seem worth it.

Like others have said, I would wait until the warranty is up on the 361 to do the mod. The warranty on my 310 is up in about a month. I'm getting really excited to rip off the muffler and gut it!!

Also, this gives me chance to test my theory. With a the power increase from a muffler mod, the 310 should put out about as much power as a stock 361. If you would be so kind, try running the modded 310 next to the stock 361 and let us know how it goes!! :chainsaw:

:cheers:
 
Anyone in Akron, Ohio that would be willing to show a few of us how to mod the muffler and re-jet it or just adjust the fuel on a couple 310's and a 361?

:newbie::chainsawguy:
 
Anyone in Akron, Ohio that would be willing to show a few of us how to mod the muffler and re-jet it or just adjust the fuel on a couple 310's and a 361?

:newbie::chainsawguy:
how far you wanting to go with it? it will use more gas but cut faster
 
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Second, where does the extra gas go? Into the environment. Unburned gas is a VOC, pollution. That's how it makes more power, by moving the charge forward, thereby spilling fuel into the exhaust.
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here we go ... why stop there ? lets do precious mother earth a favor and go back to manual hand saws ,walk to our destinations despite the distance and wear animal skins instead of modern clothes made in polluting clothing factories :dizzy:
 
Yep. Or just mod saws. The 310 mod is easy as pie. Drill a few holes in the muffler under the cover plate. Then tweek the H screw on the carb. Done! 10% gain in power. Probably 10% less fuel efficient. As F'stang says, so what?

The 361 is a lot harder to mod. They crimped the muffler halves, and filled it with crap. Look at a 044/440 carb. Its just an empty shell. I am working on a redesigned 440 type muffler for the 361 now. We shall see how it fares.
 
Yep. Or just mod saws. The 310 mod is easy as pie. Drill a few holes in the muffler under the cover plate. Then tweek the H screw on the carb. Done! 10% gain in power. Probably 10% less fuel efficient. As F'stang says, so what?

The 361 is a lot harder to mod. They crimped the muffler halves, and filled it with crap. Look at a 044/440 carb. Its just an empty shell. I am working on a redesigned 440 type muffler for the 361 now. We shall see how it fares.

So on the 310's you just take the three nuts off, take that cover plate off and drill holes in the screen mesh area? How far do you drill in? Thanks . . .
 
So on the 310's you just take the three nuts off, take that cover plate off and drill holes in the screen mesh area? How far do you drill in? Thanks . . .

Just drill into the front cover, once you have penetrated that you're good.
 
Yes unbolt the cover plate and then drill the holes. You'll want to remove the whole muffler and clean out the metal chips from the muffler.

Sounds good . . . thanks a lot for the advice! If anyone has pics of the MS310 muffler mod that would be cool also. . .
 
here!!!


this was my initial mod. i have since opened the muffler holes until they almost touch. i think my initial holes were 3/8" and 3/16". i did not change the deflector when i opened the muffler the second time.
it is a very effective mod......


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Nice thanks . . . How much adjustment was needed on the High and Low end of the carb? How would you know if it's too lean?
 
310 Mod

After the mod, how much richer do you want to adjust the H screw?
 
i don't know how much i turned it. what you need to do is to turn it until the saw 4 strokes (it sounds like the saw is "busting" out) at WOT (with chainsaws as in life, it is better to be too rich than too lean). here is a link with some audio files and tuning tips.

i would run my saw bf i mod it to learn what the 4 stroke sound is. it should be tuned that way from the dealer. then have at it.

http://chainsawr.com/?q=node/8
 
310

I checked mine fore dealership and it is all the way counter clockwise which would indicate max rich setting.
 
i forgot to mention that you will likely need to take a sheetrock screw and gently screw it into the limiter caps. then pull them off. this should allow you enough play to get your saw to 4 stroke. when you have the caps off, take a razor knife and remove the small tab on the limiter and then replace the limiters. this allows you to adjust the screw but prevents the L&H screw from backing out.

you saw may be set too rich from the dealer. some people have said they did not retune after a muffler mod. i think this may have to do with how much they opened the muffler.
 

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