My dad has a hard starting 084. Any ideas?

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I got the saw from my dad and pulled the flywheel off today. The keyway looks fine as does the key. Hmmm. It does have two positions in the flywheel. Why would it? Should I try putting it on with key in the other position? This is puzzling me. Any advise is welcome, thanks.
 
I got the saw from my dad and pulled the flywheel off today. The keyway looks fine as does the key. Hmmm. It does have two positions in the flywheel. Why would it? Should I try putting it on with key in the other position? This is puzzling me. Any advise is welcome, thanks.

The two different key ways are to accommodate different ignitions. You should not be fooling around with the flywheel's position unless you're changing
ignitions. Check the carbon build-up on the piston and in the combustion chamber.
 
What Jacob said. Dont mess with the FWK position.


No one else has mentioned rings. It is entirely possible your rings are failing. Do you have a compression tester? it would be nice to know what that thing is reading. If its in the low 100s then Id definitely slap some new rings on. Carbon buildup is also a possibility. And finally, if you squirt mix into the cylinder before starting, does it start right up? Could be something as simple as a hairline crack in a fuel line or a gummed up fuel filter.

Any of these things could make starting really hard, but Id personally start with a compression check.
 
I fixed it????

Just to give you all aheads up on what I did with the 084. I pulled flywheel, flywheel and key and crank looked fine. checked out top of piston, looked pretty clean. Pulled decomp out and cleaned it, it looked fine. I put it back together and It started fine. I let it sit outside and get cold and I started it again and what do you know it was fine. I gave it back to my dad and he was able to start it. I dont know if I did anything or not, but it is working good now. He hasnt used the saw in a couple of years because every time he went to start it the thing would jerk back so hard he couldnt do anything because he would get sore. I told him if it acts up again he may as well just give it to me:smile2:
 
A friend of mine had a 046 with the same problem. It kicked hard enough to snap the starter rope if you were lucky. Other wise, it ripped the starter handle out of your hand. The key way was perfect and so was the decompression valve. I had to file the coil holes to a slotted fashion. By slotting them, I was able to pull a few degrees of timing out. The start problem went away after that.
 
I will put money on it just being the comp of the saw, not the other ideas were bad, they were all great actually. But I have seen over the years you can pic up five saw's all of the same model, and they may start different have there own quirk, or be a bastard to pull, and one may be easier. My 660 has the traits andy has mentioned. I pull it, and get just past the compression, before I drop it. All my saw's I drop start anyway, makes it easier on me. But I am telling you the 660 I have, even one of my seasoned cutting parter's, It will bite you if you hit it wrong. There is nothing wrong with mine just high compression.
 
Shim it

found this thread too late but your problem was probably the compression release being too long and barley contacting the piston top.Went through this on an 660.made up a .040 shim on the lathe and no more problems.Might consider doing this now before carbon builds up and the problem returns.Just a thought...
Russ
 

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