My new (to me)372. What mods recommended?

[Mattyo]

some people get insanely lucky and pick up 350s for a song... keep in mind that ideally you are going to need to replace the top end, intake clamp, possibly bearings, seals, reseal the lower bearing cap, and ideally put a muffler suppose on... and a myriad of other things. you can't just buy them and run them ....they have inherent issues that need to be addressed. even if you pick up a nice one for $150, you may still end up spending more than you'd like. if you can buy from someone that knows what they are doing and has done the upgrades you may be better off.

look for the metal intake clamp...a necessity

 

[dustinwilt68]

Sure if a gd seller puts 1 up and has details about what is done I will try and get it, soon as I save up some money after xmas and buying the 372. If you are going to be letting 1 go, keep me in mind please.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I had a bad experience with a brand new 350 due to it's plastic crankcase. Ended up trading it up toward a 346NE and haven't looked back. It really was a shame and disappointing, I bought it for lighter duty work and for it's size and my intended use for it I found it to be quite a nice saw... But then it started puking all of it's bar oil all over my bench after 2 tanks of fuel run through it... Prior to that I always kind of admired the 340, 345, and 350 for what they were... It's just those damnable plastic crankcases.. I may end up with another at some point if the price is right or as a project, just because.... CAD

I know plastics are now used in alot of things nobody would even consider using it in even as recently as 10 years ago.. The material itself should be up to the task... I wonder why the issue?

Friend of mine had the exact same issue with a 460 Rancher he bought new and hadn't even been run other than at the dealer when they test ran it before they passed it over the counter to him. What gives??

 

[Mattyo]

I have rebuilt a dozen 455 ranchers and close to that for 350s. ONE ... BEAT UP... 455 rancher leaked from the plastic case.

frankly, after using the plastic cases, I wouldn't hesitate to use them again.

I threw out a 262xp plastic gas tank because it leaked... so it happens w/ pro saws too.

dustin, I will keep you in mind if I rebuild another 350...but frankly its not worth it. the hours that it takes, I don't make any $$ ... and I have done a lot of saws for fun, but I have run out of time. still, if I get ambitious I'll let you know

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Mattyo: At the risk of further distraction from this thread's topic, It seems that the plastic fuel tanks found on the XP's are pretty trouble free. My issue was with the bar oil tank, which as you certainly know is integral with the crankcase.

As I said, if the price was right I would still like to pick up a project 340, 345, or 350 to play with sometime.

 

[malk315]

I got really lucky -- got my 350 for $175 just trying to find the reserve price on e-bay and won it.
Already had metal intake clamp and in fantastic condition -- I just run it. No muffler loosening issue (which plagues that saw). I put a new bar on it and keep it sharp.
The 346's we have certainly beat it, but I still enjoy running the 350. Great saw to have especially if ya wreck the chain on another saw -- just grab the 350 and keep going, fix the other saw later.

Hope you can find one -- they do pop up every now and then.

 

[dustinwilt68]

Thanks Mattyo, I appreciate it.

 

[Mattyo]

Ride Red.... I have rebuilt quite a few husky saws, of plastic and mag flavor. I'm honestly not sure I see much advantage to the mag chassis. the chassis splits down the middle and has a gasket between, which, if you don't reassemble it right...leaks. there are issues with both types, but as of right now, i wouldn't rule out a saw based on a plastic chassis. for my use, the plastic chassis isn't the weak spot on the saw. on the 350's, the downside to plastic is the muffler melts THROUGH the chassis into the oil tank. obviously this is no good, and a weakness of plastic, but this is a foreseable remedieable issue.

oh, and I've got a bucket full of mag chassis that are useless. if I could put a 372 motor on a 350 chassis... i wouldn't hesitate. maybe one day I'll get a 3d printer and print a whole chassis ...hows that for a diy project?

Malk.... we HAVE to do another GTG....SOON

dustin... no prob dude...contact me anytime.

 

[Jet47]

I guess I am in the minority, but my 372 xtorq sports a 18" bar and on occasion a 16" bar. I tried a 20" and didn't like it, just seemed awkward and unbalanced to me.
My MM definitely helped, even with the 18" bar.

For what it's worth I have been a logger for 25+ years and have always been looking for the most efficient way to earn my living.

 

[dustinwilt68]

Thanks Mattyo, I appreciate it.

 

[dustinwilt68]

Well finally got some fuel ran thru the 372. I can't say it's the best saw ever made but it certainly puts a smile on my face when I use it. I dnt know enough to make statements and I dnt like to put anyone else's saws down, but if it puts a smile on your face that's what counts to me. So I hope everyone likes their saw as much as I like this 1 so far. Think my 359 will get some rest for a while. I also bought the 24" B&c today that was on saw originally for $30.00 with a new chain. My friend has some big maple he needs help with, so Friday we will get to use the bigger b&c.

 

[Full Chisel]

In Western Oregon, where a decent bit of timber is produced annually, I'd say that the most common size saws used over the last 20 years by fallers are 70.7 -76.5cc. 272/371/372/372xpw, 044/046 and newer variants (440,461...etc)

32-36" bars are common. Plenty use full comp(if it takes twice as long to grind 10 full chains vs. 10 skip chains, you're an idiot). Falling is clean wood, so full chisel is preferred.

I'd bet there are far more 32+ inch bars used than 28" and smaller. Use decent oil and there's no issues.

And yet somehow the armchair experts around here have decided even 28" is too long!

As always, it depends on one's application. For my use cutting eastern hardwoods...typically red or white oak but also hickory, elm, cherry, ash, etc. I would not want any longer than a 24" on a 372 unless I was running skip chain. The 372 is my "big saw" and handles a buried 24" well dogged in so I have been able to tackle trees in the 3-4' DBH range. I don't see the need for a 28"+ bar when I can just cut from both sides for trees this size. If I were to get into bigger wood than that, which is unlikely...I would probably want a bigger displacement saw anyway.

 

[dustinwilt68]

Full chisle, the same is true for me. My 372 is my big saw and doubt I will ever buy a larger bar for it then the 24". I to mostly cut firewood and oaks, maples, hickory and locust when I am lucky enough to find some. Had a great day, making the wood chips fly.

 

[bikemike]

I'd say port it pipe it timing advance 46" bar and chain anti kick back semi chiz k&n uni filter and some crome lug nuts for speed. some nitro fuel and last but not least chaps.. man it feels good to be back

 

[dustinwilt68]

Like the uni filter idea and MM is coming g soon as parts arrive maybe get it done nxt wk.

 

[bikemike]

Like the uni filter idea and MM is coming g soon as parts arrive maybe get it done nxt wk.

Need a vid of it or we won't believe you lol

 

[dustinwilt68]

I be happy to post video if I can figure how to post it, I am not very gd with tech. But I will try.

 

[bikemike]

I be happy to post video if I can figure how to post it, I am not very gd with tech. But I will try.

You tube first then it can be copied easy to site. But I'm more computer retarded than anyone on this site. Not ashamed to admit it, not proud of it either.

 

[dustinwilt68]

Ok. I try. Anyone have k&n part number for air filter for both the 359 and 372?

 

[bikemike]

Ok. I try. Anyone have k&n part number for air filter for both the 359 and 372?

Might just need to look at what's out there and fit it to the saw.