My new (to me)372. What mods recommended?

[Big_Wood]

This truly cannot be so.....if your a keyboard logger it is perfectly normal to constantly strip your saws down to get Qtips into places that cannot be seen from the outside. Forum loggers spend many minutes trying different size rims, chains, pricey pro bars to work out the best cutting formula. When this is achieved and every concievable bolt on accessory has been fitted, the saw has done its job and retires into the trading post still not run in with more polishing hours than run time. You need to do this stuff to understand the saws capability so you can advise others on forums.

LOL! Great post! Dustin, cheap mods are ones you do yourself. The best thing you can do for it is a muffler mod. Just do a search on here and read up on it. I would stray away from porting that saw if you have never done so. Practice on something less valuable.

 

[dustinwilt68]

K. Muffler sounds easy enough.

 

[Big_Wood]

Yep, here's a few I did recently lol they were mostly just beat up junker mufflers in the bins but figured I'd repair/mod them while off work. Now they are bolt and go if I need them.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Unless you are a full time arborist/logger porting a saw has limited benefits. A good muffler modification and sharp chain are what you need. Having owned many ported saws (and I did cut professionally) the lump in the pants isn't worth the money spent. Unless you know precisely what you are doing porting your own saw is bad advice!!!

 

[Josh B.]

Very nice saw and it will not disappoint, especially with that size bar. I have the X-Torq version and love it. If it were me I wouldn't do any mods until it's fully broke in. But if you must do something (I know the feeling) a muffler mod is cheap and effective.

 

[Full Chisel]

I agree with others who have suggested running the saw as is. Let's not forget that a 372 is already a VERY well running saw and will absolutely rip bone stock with an 18" bar and sharp chain.

I have a 24" bar on mine and see no reason to mod it whatsoever. The smaller saws...different story

 

[rahtreelimbs]

To the OP.......should you decide to run anything bigger than a 24" bar do yourself a favor and run full skip chain. Besides being easier on the power head your arms will thank you when it comes time to sharpen it. Knew a guy that ran full comp chain on a 36 inch bar. This same idiot ran a 42" bar on a 372.....bar studs aren't up to that task!!!

 

[Full Chisel]

To the OP.......should you decide to run anything bigger than a 24" bar do yourself a favor and run full skip chain. Besides being easier on the power head your arms will thank you when it comes time to sharpen it. Knew a guy that ran full comp chain on a 36 inch bar. This same idiot ran a 42" bar on a 372.....bar studs aren't up to that task!!!

Was his name Piltz?

 

[user 122190]

That chain will stay new for about 10 seconds.

That's a lot of saw to run an 18" bar.

Lol. Thanks, chain is brand new.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Was his name Piltz?

Naw.....he is a local dunce of a tree climber. One of those types that is hard to absorb suggestions from more informed people than himself!

 

[Full Chisel]

Naw.....he is a local dunce of a tree climber. One of those types that is hard to absorb suggestions from more informed people than himself!

Can't be him then...Piltz gives questionable to completely unreasonable suggestions to less informed, gullible people. He really knows how to make a saw run good though...slap an ignorantly long bar on an anemic plastic cased saw and let 'er rip.

Sorry for the tread derail...couldn't resist.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Can't be him then...Piltz gives questionable to completely unreasonable suggestions to less informed, gullible people. He really knows how to make a saw run good though...slap an ignorantly long bar on an anemic plastic cased saw and let 'er rip.

Sorry for the tread derail...couldn't resist.

Where are you located?

 

[Full Chisel]

I'm located in IL but Piltz is in Portland, OR.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=360824671067&alt=web

 

[dustinwilt68]

Mufflers look awesome! I think just the muffler mod will do for now. I dnt plan on going over 24" bar. And I dnt want to hurt the new saw for sure.

 

[barneyrb]

If you send out for porting Jamestown tn is the place

 

[Josh B.]

I keep a 24" bar on my 72 and it does the trick when I get into bigger wood. I have a full comp and a skip chain for it and there is little to no discernable difference to me on how they cut. A 22" tree will slow the saw down a bit, but if you don't put it on the dogs and try to force your way through that saw will just keep eating. That 18" bar is going to be fun on there. There is literally not enough cutters on that loop to slow that 72 down. It's gonna feel like a semi race saw...lol

 

[Philip Wheelock]

Lose the the 18" bar/chain and put a 20" b/c on it; 18" isn't enough for a 70cc saw. Keep the chain sharp and the saw in tune. That's all you need to do; a stock 372 is more than enough for firewood.

 

[Josh B.]

Lose the the 18" bar/chain and put a 20" b/c on it; 18" isn't enough for a 70cc saw. Keep the chain sharp and the saw in tune. That's all you need to do; a stock 372 is more than enough for firewood.

Define "not enough bar". Just curious about this perspective. Thanks

 

[Philip Wheelock]

Define "not enough bar". Just curious about this perspective. Thanks

Sure. Conventional wisdom is that a 60cc saw or strong 50cc saw will run an 18" b/c in hardwood just fine. Also, Stihl recommends a 20" bar for its ms362 model. 20" is the sweet spot for 70cc saws like a stock ms440 or 372xp in hardwood; 25" in softwood. 70cc's and 18" b/c combo doesn't make sense, especially if the saw is ported.

 

[Marshy]

The general consensus for the 372 is a 20-24" bar. If you have a 358 with 18" bar then I personally don't see the benefit of having another saw with the same size bar. The balance of the 372 is excellent with a 24"... It's all personal preference though.