My sad 350 story and the quest for advice...

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ZeviB

ArboristSite Lurker
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Holidays Greeting and Good Wishes to All!

Starting with a (maybe-not-so-short) story, I am seeking the advice of this vastly-knowledgeable hive of smart wood cutters. If you wish, just skip to "So, here's my question:" below.

It all started about 3 weeks ago while cutting firewood. My beloved Husqvarna 350 decided to part with its muffler and spat it away... Of course, I realized that this all my fault for not taking care of my slowly-but-surely failing muffler bolts: a few weeks earlier one bolt slipped away unnoticed, never to be seen again, and I just carelessly continued to operate the saw with the occasional tightening of the remaining bolt. Only after the 350 angrily spat that muffler and I was doing some online reading, did I realize that I was on the very popular road shared by many 350 owners... Upon further inspection, I realized that the thread of that remaining bolt was stripped in the cylinder head, thus allowing the engine to shoot away the muffler, declaring its victory with a roar that could wake up the dead...

Solutions such as helicoil or other inserts were usually not given favorite opinions or results from what I read. I was faced with two options: tap the head and use larger diameter bolts, or replace the cylinder and use new, original bolts. As I was contemplating the issue, I peeked through the exhaust port and discovered that the piston seems to be scored. Probably a punishment for my negligence in keeping an eye on the muffler and the bolts... Compression test came up with about 70-75. Time for a closer look! I took the cylinder off, and while the head itself was nice and smooth without any scoring signs - the piston was definitely a goner... Well, I guess the decision of what to do has already been made for me: so I ordered a piston/cylinder kit. Rush delivery, of course.

Two days later, my arms cradle the new piston/cylinder baby. It takes *much* less time to write about it than to install it - but I finally got it all assembled and bolted together. (I am going to skip the l-o-n-g time I spend troubleshooting mis-routed fuel lines, leaking connections, and fuel-tank vent that decided to jump ship...) At that moment, I also realizing that I forgot to order two new muffler bolts... Argh! Of course no Husky dealer in the area has these in stock, but I find in the hardware store a matching threaded rod! Threaded rods are Locktited in, heat shields and muffler follow suit, and two nuts secure the set in place. Voila - the moment of truth has arrived: time to pull some starting cord!

So I pulled, and nothing happened. And I pulled again, and nothing happened again. And I pulled some more. I dripped some fuel to the carb, pulled, and the engine barely coughed. It's Michigan, and it's cold, but I was steaming hot. WHAT IS GOING ON??? Ignition spark? - Check. Plug not soaking wet? Check. Primer bulb pumps the way it should, with the line to the carb spittting fuel when I push the primer? Check. Engine runs? NOT check... Somehow fuel delivery from the carb to the engine seems to fail. Time to get the carb off (again...).

Ta-Dah! right below the main opening of the intake, there's another smaller opening in the cylinder that is supposed to deliver pressure from the crankcase (as the piston goes down) to the carb and pump fuel. In the original head that I took off, this opening goes through straight into the cylinder cavity; in the new cylinder I put on, this opening is NOT going through, but instead it "bends down" where it's supposed to meet a matching opening in the crankcase body through the gasket, and from that point it (probably) turns again into the crankcase cavity. But since that is not the design of the crankcase on my 350 - that fuel-pumping opening was simply blocked! My bright revelation for that moment: if you can't pump fuel to the engine - it will not run... Bear in mind that at this point I'm about a week+ into this project. The prospect of requesting a replacement, shipping and waiting and exchanging the cylinder is not a happy one. And winter is not one that is known to be patiently waiting...

OK, remember my original two options? Time for a combo-meal: tap the old cylinder for larger muffler bolts, and install it on the new piston. Forget that darn wrongly-ported new cylinder head. So, remember the "Karate Kid" movie - "wax on - wax off, wax on - wax off..."? Here we go again: everything gets disassembled and reassembled all over again (have I already said that it takes *much* less time to write about it than to install it?...) The last bolts to go on are the new, larger muffler bolts. With Loctite. Not too tight. I swear. And...? New bolt strips new thread ! <Explicits>!!!!!!

Update: the guy who runs the workshop where I work, who was very helpful in helping me troubleshoot the problems with the chainsaw, just sent me an email "Go cut wood..." Apparently, seeing how upset I was with the saw, he just took it apart again, put a helicoil in the head, and it's up and running again.

But: I don't know how long it will last, and I cannot trust it as my main and only saw anymore. While I'm not a professional, I still cut about 5+/- full cord/year as a homeowner. This 350 has just been demoted to a backup saw.

So, here's my question:

What would you recommend as an equivalent replacement for the 350?

At some point in the near future I plan on supersizing with something like the Husqvarna 372XP for larger-diameter cuts. But it's too large/heavy for most average use; I need something between my Stihl MS190 and the future 372XP that will be reliable and easier to handle.

Thank you,
Zevi.
 
If buying brand new from the dealer, a Husky 545/Jonsered 2252. A 550XP is good too, it's a 545 with a little more power and 100.00 more expensive. Husky 555 is another good one, offering a little more grunt than the 545.

If buying used a 346XP is a great choice too.
 
to address one comment "main and only saw" is not a common comment on this forum...and rightly so. no such thing as a main and only saw. bars get stuck, saws poop out for random reasons, and it usually happens in the middle of an important job just before a snow storm. my opinion, 3 saws minimum. just in case you get 2 stuck in wood :)

next... old cat is right, some homework before you did anything would have saved you a world of hurt here....or at least potentially. I have a bunch of 350s and I like them a lot... they've been a challenge to go through all the potential issues and remedy them before emergencies happen, but in the end its quite a nice saw, and once you've had the p&C apart a few times, its only a few minutes to change out the P&C....

I'd stick w/ the 350 ... once you get the kinks worked out... you'll be fine. otherwise, take old cat's advice on the 550xp
 
Thank you for the input and advice (which I wish I seeked earlier... :().

I bought the 350 about 8 years ago, and it served me well. I was not joking calling it "my beloved" - it always started when I asked it, it feels good and balanced in my hands, and if the chain is sharp - it will cut anything I ask. And as I said -- I totally admit that its failure is my fault and mine alone.

For what I'm cutting 80% of the time, this size of saw is my go-to saw. If and when I get the 372XP, it will probably be oversized and overweighted for most of what I want to do. I use the 350 frequently enough, and given its history - I think that at that point it makes sense to consider it as a backup saw, and get a new one of that size. Heck - stepping into this discussion I originally thought to buy a new 350 (if they were available...) !

So, while I accept responsibility for the saw's problem, I'm looking for a new 350-like saw - not to replace it, rather to reinforce it...

@z71mike - Looks like the 346 was replaced by the 550, which is a bit more powerful and about 1 lb heavier than the 350. It's $530 at Alamia. I think the more direct replacement of the 350 is the 450, $375 at Alamia.
Somehow, the 545 is not listed on Alamia.

Good list, @MrGiggles -- I'm beginning to like that 550xp, but I need to digest the price a bit... It's about $150 more than the direct 350-replacement (450). When I get the 372XP they'll make a great duo.

Thanks,
Zevi
 
@z71mike - Looks like the 346 was replaced by the 550, which is a bit more powerful and about 1 lb heavier than the 350. It's $530 at Alamia. I think the more direct replacement of the 350 is the 450, $375 at Alamia.
Somehow, the 545 is not listed on Alamia.

Sorry, I'm just partial to older things :)

Saws, trucks, cars, bikes, quads, etc
 
Hey - at my age we tend to appreciate those who are partial to old things... :hi:
That old M109 is something I'm also partial to...
That, my friend, is not old :)

It's an A7! Good eye though.
 
I'm confused as to why you don't trust your existing 350 anymore. You stated that you've heard negative input regarding heli-coils. If the thread repair is done properly, the new steel threads are superior to the original ones. If needed, also add a bracket to the muffler to keep it from coming loose. Maybe I missed something?
 
I'm confused as to why you don't trust your existing 350 anymore. You stated that you've heard negative input regarding heli-coils. If the thread repair is done properly, the new steel threads are superior to the original ones. If needed, also add a bracket to the muffler to keep it from coming loose. Maybe I missed something?
Yeah, a properly done helicoil is fine.
 
Thank you for the input and advice (which I wish I seeked earlier... :().


Good list, @MrGiggles -- I'm beginning to like that 550xp, but I need to digest the price a bit... It's about $150 more than the direct 350-replacement (450). When I get the 372XP they'll make a great duo.

Thanks,
Zevi

The 545 is generally around 100 bucks cheaper than the 550xp, and it still has all the pro saw features (mag crankcase and clutch cover, adjustable oiler, etc.) They are physically the same, with the 550 having a little more aggressive tuning. They're Autotune as well. Contact Tlandrum on here.. He's a dealer that will give you a great deal. I paid 489.00 plus tax for mine locally with an 18" B/C, and that's on the high side.
 
Just outside metro Ann Arbor...
I've been to this place a few times. :rock: For me it was a mecca to the holy land!!!

Back to chainsaws... If it were me, I'd look at the 562. With it, you may not need the 372. I ran one of them and it was butter smooth. What is your spending limit? And you mentioned a 450. I'd steer clear and I say that with personal experience w/ one.
 
I'm confused as to why you don't trust your existing 350 anymore. You stated that you've heard negative input regarding heli-coils. If the thread repair is done properly, the new steel threads are superior to the original ones. If needed, also add a bracket to the muffler to keep it from coming loose. Maybe I missed something?

A friend gave me a seized 350 with a ruined piston. I cleaned the aluminum transfer off the cylinder, ordered a thirty dollar aftermarket piston, put it back together and I've been running it a lot for three years. I really like the saw. One more thing I still need to do is replace the plastic clamp on the intake rubber boot. My old Husky L series saws have never had loose muffler bolts, the brackets on the bolts prevent them from moving. Why aren't all muffler bolts locked on like this? muffler.JPG
 
Cool story, good read.

Get another junker 350, now that you have taken your runner apart some so you are familiar with it, and rebuild it. Then keep your eyes open for a 70cc something, a deal.

For the price of a new saw, you could wind up with three or four runners. I mean, you never know, I got given a 350 that is sitting in my pile to be fixed area, for free, for sharpening a guys chain for him. Didn't even know he had it, was just doing a friend a favor, he goes into his shop walks out with it, says here, take it, maybe you can fix it.

Local husky dealer might have one in his junk pile you could get for cheap. They were sold in mass quantities.
 
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