My truck isn't designed to haul wood.......

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Stang you are correct.


But in all fairness to the truck, those are fresh white oak, probably in the neighborhood of 120-130lbs each block. Thats why the truck is stacked all backasswards, I couldnt throw anymore up to the front.



Ride quality over capicity?


Mabye, but isint it fun hanging with the camaros on the on ramp and Smokin the ricers at stoplights? :hmm3grin2orange:


My "88" chevy wouldnt do either.
 
i stack the heavy wood right behind the cab, and the lighter wood near the tailgate. Balances out the load/ride, and the heaviest wood is over the axles.
 
WoodTick007 said:
You can add a set of "airbags" to work with your rear springs. When installed and set at full pressure the truck will sit "normal"....but you can reall load the hell out it it and it will not sag in the rear. I have a set on my F-250 and they are awesome. I can load the truck with wood even to the top of the cab and haul a 8' x 16' dual axle trailer with 30" sides FULL of wood without dragging a$$. Of course you should "not" exceed the GVW of the tow vehical. I bought mine from Arnott and they were $200 shipped....takes about 2 hours to install.

http://www.arnottairride.com/

Thats what the trailer is for!! If I go anywhere I know I am going to be hauling anything large or heavy, the trailer tags along.

I have seen those, and the add-a-leafs, but stock, with the trailer fully loaded and about 5-600 pounds on the tounge the truck sits level. And with 2" lift shackles on the back and 5 turns on the TB's on the front, thats pretty good.
 
In all the posts I have not seen anyone say a thing about tires. With all the added weight being hauled an increase in the tire load range would be wise.
 
Stihl -kid a buddy of mine has that same red truck, 2nd owner, first guy had a camper on the back and added 2 extra main springs and a helper to each side, the truck will hold well over a ton of material, bounces a bit when its empty, but rides like a cadillac with a load on it. They are great trucks.
 
stihl kid, I got a truck like that I also used to get cracked on all the time about. A 79 gmc k35 siera. Now it's not my daily driver any more, but I've had it since I was 18 or 19 and drove it for many years with all different color fenders and panels. It was only after one of my neighbors, a nationally syndicated radio host started make fun of it on the air that I restored it to it's former glory. I think it has pieces from all 14 years of that model style's production in it. And Yep, kept the a/c Delco 8-track player right in the dash.
Anyone know where I can an Ipod adapter for that unit??
 
yup.. dodge Cummins diesels trucks are so good it's hard to believe, until you own one.

first gen CTD 89-92 are totally solid trucks! low mileage can still be found for outstanding prices. Cummins motors are made to go 1/2 million miles. supporting chassis has to be maintained. naturally going low mileage avoids items like ball joints, Ujoints, wheel bearings, alternators, starters, etc. etc.

it's easy for Cummins Turbo Diesel folks to mod their 12 valves to put out 300+ HP. some are running 500+ HP. since these are mechanical injection motors, mods are done for next to free.

Cummins 6BT are true medium duty motors. CTD forum folks recommend pulling at least 10K load from time to time to properly stress these Cummins.

my best mileage so far has been 22mpg. still need to advance my timing to 16degrees, change my full throttle stop plate, etc. etc.
just tore timing cover off and secured the killer dowel pin.

paid cash for mine... have always followed the rule of not buying any vehicle unless you have cash. you can only bear so payments per month. save those monthly payments to buy a house ASAP. :greenchainsaw:

STIHL-KID said:
Yeah, ol' red is my daily driver to college. I really like how easy it is to work on and the availability of body parts (81-87) GMC/Chevy trucks. My friends who own mid-90's Dodge Cummins 12V trucks seem to always crack a joke or two about my rig. They never argue when we discuss who has their truck paid off and how much money they have put into it. Heck, my truck is still living in the 80's.......it has the original Delco AM/FM radio that I listen to tunes with. I realize this is not a truck forum, but to answer 046's response to Dodge Cummins trucks.......yep I agree totally about the 12V. I'm current going to school right now to be a diesel technician. The newer 24V Dodges seem to have problems, especially when a guy wants to start messing around and modifying engine/transmission stuff. What a really want is a first generation Dodge Cummins truck (89-92?) They are 12V equipped and reasonably priced. Finding the low mile, old man grandpa truck is my goal. Until then, I will beef up the Chevy's rear suspension.
 
98 dodge

i had a 98, motor buy cummins, truck typical dodge piece of crap. the 3/4 ton is not strong enough for the motor. i had to replace all front end parts, brakes several times, blew transmission at 100 K and on and on. i miss that truck for the shear pulling power but not for the amount of time it spent on the hoist. keep the old chev, rework the springs and use tire chains when off road for more traction.
 
That truck isn't overloaded... you have one of those silly toolboxes taking up space up front and that forces you to put more of the load behind the axle instead of on or in front of it. You should see my buddy's ol' dodge when we load it up... Now THAT'S overloaded. He has a transmission rebuild that's way overdue and his springs need reshaping. It never does sit at full height anymore even when empty. I'll try to get a pic of it the next time we make a run.

Ian
 
hanniedog said:
In all the posts I have not seen anyone say a thing about tires. With all the added weight being hauled an increase in the tire load range would be wise.

Oh yeah! I have "Wild Cat/Lt" on mine. High load rated. Even got a "you really have serious tires on there" from a tire shop once. That was the first thing I did to the truck after I bought it used - toss out the wimpy tires that were on it.

Harry K
 
here was a pic taken yesterday of my work truck.... It is a 2005 2500HD with the 6.0L. It has 97K miles on it.... The springs have since been worn out, but in all fairness the truck weighs 7900 lbs with no load on it. The utility bed is heavy and there are lots of tools in it....

I wish I would have take a pic before I started to unload it....LOL.
It is all white oak and Ash. the ash had been cut and down for a while, but the oak was freshly cut. Lot of weight in these pics


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RBW, yup love the power of the 5.3L. Good towing power for the car trailer and rather fast for a 1/2 ton pick up with no load load. I have a chip, K&N, and flowmaster exhaust on mine. Like your wheels too. That is next for me.
 
yup... no question Cummins motor was a mismatch for 3/4 ton dodge truck auto tranny. 5sp are better mated, but still blow up if you pull too heavy (40k lbs).

dodge like all mfg started leaving off grease zerts off of ball joints, tie rod end, ujoints, etc. until lately, it was normal to shoot grease every 15k miles. when ball joints go dry, they're toast! keep em loaded up with grease and they'll go next to forever.

replacing brake pads is normal maintenance every 35k to 65k miles. since diesels don't brake with engine unless you have a Jake brake installed. brakes on diesels in general gets a larger workout.

98's came with 12valve and 24 valve versions. naturally 12v versions with four doors are highly desired. 98.5 came with 24 valve and electronic fuel injection. these had lift pump problems and would knock out main fuel injection pumps. was not unusual to replace two lift pumps in 100k miles.

I would not own a 24valve 98.5-2002 CTD. that's why 97 is considered the best year for Dodge diesel trucks. 97 was the last full year for 12valves and had all the bugs worked out.

It's not unusual to hear of folks selling their 2005 CTD to go back to 97 12valve CTD truck.

______________ \____
¦ 6BT•••CUMMINS ¦¦ �,\____„
¦_...._...._________¦¦==¦"'"""'¦
/(©)¤(©) ¤¤¤ (©)¨(©)¨¨¨ (©)¨
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woodfarmer said:
i had a 98, motor buy cummins, truck typical dodge piece of crap. the 3/4 ton is not strong enough for the motor. i had to replace all front end parts, brakes several times, blew transmission at 100 K and on and on. i miss that truck for the shear pulling power but not for the amount of time it spent on the hoist. keep the old chev, rework the springs and use tire chains when off road for more traction.
 
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CaseyForrest said:
Thats what the trailer is for!! If I go anywhere I know I am going to be hauling anything large or heavy, the trailer tags along.

I have seen those, and the add-a-leafs, but stock, with the trailer fully loaded and about 5-600 pounds on the tounge the truck sits level. And with 2" lift shackles on the back and 5 turns on the TB's on the front, thats pretty good.

Next time you load your truck and trailer....why don't you take a photo and post it. I know nothing about this model...but if you can load a truck and trailer of wood and only drop a little bit.... I am very impressed. I have a 96 f-250 with beefed up springs, airbag helpers and If I load up the trailer and truck it still will sit down a bit more than I like. I have went across the scales with 1.5 ton of wood in the truck and 4 ton wood on the trailer plus the weight of the trailer (1800lbs). Perhaps I should get rid of Ole Red and buy a newer truck.
 
Yea i beat my "girly truck" to death.God its just a ranger in a F-150 body.Pullin?no probs.Stoppin?Yea we got some issues sometimes.I prolly keep around 2000# of tools in the back.Then whan i load it heavy it squats.I had 2 maples on there,brush and logs and that was a long ride home.Also i had 2 slash pines(just logs)on there when it started rainin i started slidin.Nothing you can do when you lose traction in the front.I just steered it over to the shoulder and let her dig in.Yea that was a hair stander.Prolly 75 ft slide then let off and prolly slid another fifty.

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Ill try to get some better ones next time.Havent had to load er down lately.;)
 
WoodTick007 said:
Next time you load your truck and trailer....why don't you take a photo and post it. I know nothing about this model...but if you can load a truck and trailer of wood and only drop a little bit.... I am very impressed. I have a 96 f-250 with beefed up springs, airbag helpers and If I load up the trailer and truck it still will sit down a bit more than I like. I have went across the scales with 1.5 ton of wood in the truck and 4 ton wood on the trailer plus the weight of the trailer (1800lbs). Perhaps I should get rid of Ole Red and buy a newer truck.

What I was getting at is I dont use my truck to haul anything heavy, thats what the trailer is for.

With the truck and trailer empty the truck has the stock rake.....Load the trailer full with about 5-600 pounds on the tounge and the truck sits level.(i.e. the rear drops.)
 
My little wheelbarrow-98sonoma,2x,4cyl, has brought home over 2k lbs of oak in the bed, and another 1klbs on my converted boat trailer. I still had some play in the springs, the tires get inflated to 50psi when I go for wood. As long as the front tires are still on the ground, it'll make it home okay.

Someday I'll have a real truck again, but for now 30mpg driving , and 1-cord per trip when hauling is not so bad, for 155,000 miles on it and no payments.
 
046 said:
yup... no question Cummins motor was a mismatch for 3/4 ton dodge truck auto tranny. 5sp are better mated, but still blow up if you pull too heavy (40k lbs).

dodge like all mfg started leaving off grease zerts off of ball joints, tie rod end, ujoints, etc. until lately, it was normal to shoot grease every 15k miles. when ball joints go dry, they're toast! keep em loaded up with grease and they'll go next to forever.
40K is double what most pick ups are rated for, if you're towing this much with a pick up your tranny should explode, and you should get an itchy rash also.

The grease fitting thing bothers me too but there is a reason for it. In some states a vehicle leaking oil or grease will fail state inspection, this includes balloned ball joint/ tie rod boots and leaking zerks. As the manufacturer cannot determine where each vehicle will end up, all are built without grease fittings. Most of the Moog replacement parts still have grease fittings.
 

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