barton174
ArboristSite Guru
So, I'll start by saying that, like I've seen here on AS, it never hurts to stop and ask about wood that's sitting around! Been watching to see if the guy who took the rest of the tree a couple weeks ago was going to come back, and finally stopped on the way home from work, today. Guy says dude hasn't been back to get it, get it out of his yard if I want it! Done! Went home and ate dinner, loaded up stuff, and came back!
Brought the 371XP and my new 550XP (Ok, brought the 540 along, just in case). Cut across the 40" piece with my 371XP, then started noodling. Now mind you, it's 90-92F outside, so saws are hot, anyway. I'm running the Husky XP fuel in my new 550 for warranty purposes, but my 371 gets 40:1 with bailey's synthetic oil and 91 non-e gas. While noodling, the 371 starts to run a little strange and I'm not sure if it's just hitting soft and hard spots in the trunk where the different trunks all come together, or what. Then my left hand starts to get really hot and when I pull the saw out to rev/idle/rev/idle to cool it down and oil down the chain, I notice it has an additional "ringing bell" sound when it revs. Like I've seen a million times on AS, when something's wrong SHUT IT DOWN! So, I shut it down and noodle a tank with the 550XP. I go back to the 371 and look it over and notice there is now an 1/16" wide slot in the top cover that didn't used to be there, sort of under the handle. Tap on the muffler, and oh ****, the muffler is loose! Finish what I could get done before dark with the 550XP, load the trailer up, and get home.
I check the saw out and piston looks like it always did, and the cylinder also looks good. Whew, dodged a bullet! Good thing I run 40:1 and run way rich with a muffler mod anyway, so it wasn't crazy lean with the muffler loose, and plus, I stopped pretty soon after it started acting up. When I say I run it rich, I mean the bar has to have a chain with low depth gauges, and has to have a good bite in at least 12" of wood to start 2-stroking. I know I can get more power out of it by going leaner, but it works in big wood, which is about all I use it for. *Note: The left to right marks in the piston in the 4th picture are me running a pick across the light vertical lines to see if I could feel any of them. I can't.
Anyway, now, the bolts are gone. Does anybody know what the specs are for the muffler bolts that go into the cylinder on a 1999 371XP? I suspect they're M6, but I don't know by what (1.0, 1.5, etc.), or how long.
Thanks,
Mike
Brought the 371XP and my new 550XP (Ok, brought the 540 along, just in case). Cut across the 40" piece with my 371XP, then started noodling. Now mind you, it's 90-92F outside, so saws are hot, anyway. I'm running the Husky XP fuel in my new 550 for warranty purposes, but my 371 gets 40:1 with bailey's synthetic oil and 91 non-e gas. While noodling, the 371 starts to run a little strange and I'm not sure if it's just hitting soft and hard spots in the trunk where the different trunks all come together, or what. Then my left hand starts to get really hot and when I pull the saw out to rev/idle/rev/idle to cool it down and oil down the chain, I notice it has an additional "ringing bell" sound when it revs. Like I've seen a million times on AS, when something's wrong SHUT IT DOWN! So, I shut it down and noodle a tank with the 550XP. I go back to the 371 and look it over and notice there is now an 1/16" wide slot in the top cover that didn't used to be there, sort of under the handle. Tap on the muffler, and oh ****, the muffler is loose! Finish what I could get done before dark with the 550XP, load the trailer up, and get home.
I check the saw out and piston looks like it always did, and the cylinder also looks good. Whew, dodged a bullet! Good thing I run 40:1 and run way rich with a muffler mod anyway, so it wasn't crazy lean with the muffler loose, and plus, I stopped pretty soon after it started acting up. When I say I run it rich, I mean the bar has to have a chain with low depth gauges, and has to have a good bite in at least 12" of wood to start 2-stroking. I know I can get more power out of it by going leaner, but it works in big wood, which is about all I use it for. *Note: The left to right marks in the piston in the 4th picture are me running a pick across the light vertical lines to see if I could feel any of them. I can't.
Anyway, now, the bolts are gone. Does anybody know what the specs are for the muffler bolts that go into the cylinder on a 1999 371XP? I suspect they're M6, but I don't know by what (1.0, 1.5, etc.), or how long.
Thanks,
Mike
