Need a 48"-50" Bar

[B_Turner]

I personally would not even consider anything but full skip on 36 and up. Does a better job and takes half as long to sharpen.

At 28 and 32 it is a personal call, and I prefer full skip typically.

Course that assumes really sharp chains, as skip is less forgiving.

 

[blsnelling]

How much drag would a hard nosed bar put on the saw? I've got a lead on a 50" hard nosed Canon and may be able to pick it up for a good price.

 

[leeha]

Brad, i run my hard nosed bars just a tad on the loose side.
Give it some oil and you will be fine.
Remember all the strain is between the clutch and the wood. the chain is just coasting around the tip.

______________
Lee

 

[Bill G]

Brad, i run my hard nosed bars just a tad on the loose side.
Give it some oil and you will be fine.
Remember all the strain is between the clutch and the wood. the chain is just coasting around the tip.

______________
Lee

Nice to see you around Lee

 

[Mr. Obvious]

I don't have a problem with personal preferences however I think that if a saw 90 cc or higher can't run a full comp chain on a 36 inch bar there might be something wrong with it. As far as longer bars I think semi-skip would be good enough. I think my 60 inch cannon bar on my 3120 has semi-skip and it has never begged for mercy. But then I'm just a firewood hack.

I'm out of piss now.

 

[Slamm]

Brad, I'm with Sling'r here, full skip is faster, at worst it isn't slower and it is so much easier to sharpen. I'm in the process of converting everything from say 24" on up to skip, possibly even 20" on up. I just don't feel full comp is worth the hassle. On 28" bars I despise using full comp chain, because it isn't faster and it is a pain to sharpen and doesn't bore through trees faster.

Don't bother with semi-skip that is just half-a$$ing it, LOL.

My opinion,

Sam

 

[blsnelling]

So what about the hard nosed bar? How much power loss? I'd like to hear more of your experiences here.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

I don't have a problem with personal preferences however I think that if a saw 90 cc or higher can't run a full comp chain on a 36 inch bar there might be something wrong with it. As far as longer bars I think semi-skip would be good enough. I think my 60 inch cannon bar on my 3120 has semi-skip and it has never begged for mercy. But then I'm just a firewood hack.

I'm out of piss now.

This was never in question. 3/8 full skip would be a faster chain, that is what this conversation is about.

 

[Christman]

Just get both, get you video cam out. time both and post.
I have a hard nose 42" for my 395 and i think it makes it work a little bit more.
But i don't run my chain loose because the thought of that coming off scares me.

why don't you keep the 404? That was full skip right?
Kent

 

[blsnelling]

I sold that 41" bar and .404 chain. I replaced it with a 36" for big cookie cutting. This 50" bar will be for work.

 

[Cheese]

A firewood hack with a 60" bar on a 3120?

I too am interested in the hard nose on long bars, why other than cost?

Where are you guys getting semi-skip round chain? I hate sharpening full comp on any bars and feel like I could get some less vibes shifting away from full skip on my 660.

Keep up the good work Mr. Snelling!

 

[blsnelling]

A firewood hack with a 60" bar on a 3120?

Boys and their toys!

 

[brncreeper]

IMO Cannon's are good for milling as they are very ridgid. My 36" hard nose Stihl bar works fine as long as the oiler (on the 088) is turned up to maximum. The Stihl are a good compromise between stiffness and light weight. If I were to get a 48/50" bar it would probably be a Stihl. I'm curious to see what you end up with and how it works out for you.

 

[blsnelling]

Actually, I had order the 36" and 50" together and then called back and canceled the 50" when I saw the tree wasn't as big as I thought. I had also found out about the possibility of getting the used Canon hard nose. That's why this is back up in the air as to which I will get. If the price is right on the Canon, I'll give it a try. If I don't like it, I'll sell it and get the Stihl.

 

[brncreeper]

I had to replace the old 25" bar as it was completely shot, $70 from my Stihl Dealer. The Carlton will be for playing around with timed cuts, $14 from Bailey's.
I have a large burr oak to get also, I need to check the DBH. Hopefully my
41" bar will be enough.

 

[Slamm]

I had to replace the old 25" bar as it was completely shot, $70 from my Stihl Dealer. The Carlton will be for playing around with timed cuts, $14 from Bailey's.
I have a large burr oak to get also, I need to check the DBH. Hopefully my
41" bar will be enough.

That 41" bar will be enough the tree isn't 82" in diameter, you should be okay, LOL.

Sam

 

[brncreeper]

That 41" bar will be enough the tree isn't 82" in diameter, you should be okay, LOL.

Sam

It's just a hobby, so I don't really have to justify a monster bar. Besides I need a good excuse to own a chain sharpener.

 

[Slamm]

It's just a hobby, so I don't really have to justify a monster bar. Besides I need a good excuse to own a chain sharpener.

LOL that's great, that was a good honest response to me be being an a$$, LOL.

As long as we can all be rational about our irrational purchasing of "tools", there can be no argument between us.

If we could only get the women to understand this concept, LOL.

Sam

 

[brncreeper]

LOL that's great, that was a good honest response to me be being an a$$, LOL.

As long as we can all be rational about our irrational purchasing of "tools", there can be no argument between us.

If we could only get the women to understand this concept, LOL.

Sam

LOL, I still am able to heat my house with the wood cutting I do so it's not totally irrational but it's close . I've yet to see a tree service locally that uses an 880 or 3120... they just don't mess with 'em. 394/395 and 066/660's for all there big wood stuff.
Yeah, the wife thinks I spend too much, lolol.

 

[Taxmantoo]

How hard is it to convert a Husky mount to fit a Stihl?