Need advice new to the chainsaw world

[dieselmissfire]

Ok so here's the story I moved to Kentucky from the Catskill mountains in NY and brought my wood stove with me. Well apparently split and delivered wood isn't available in KY like it was in the Catskills so I now trek out every weekend to find trees that look like they don't like being whole anymore. (I know every weekend seems a bit excessive, but I need seasoned trees lots of them and I moved down right before winter so I've already burned everything I managed to stockpile). I had been using a 30 year old craftsman saw a friend found in the garbage and I managed to get into running order, which worked fine until it started losing compression. I went out and bought a stihl ms290 from the local guys(always support local business) and now am using that. I need another backup saw since I heard you shouldn't head out in the woods without two saws. I was looking at a stihl 051 they seem plentiful with both parts saws and replacement parts. I'm going to be cutting down and splitting around 5-6 cords a year. Any tips would be greatly appreciated as I know very little about cutting down trees (so far I've been sticking to the ones that were already on the ground but there aren't any of those left). I thank you for any input.

Robert

 

[oscar4883]

Good idea to stick with downed stuff first. You don't really need a back-up saw but it is a good idea in case you get stuck. A cheaper option is to get another bar and chain. That way if you get stuck you can take the bar off and swap out in order to cut yourself out. I would stay away from an 051. That style saw can be a great saw, but it is getty quite old and may be very nit-picky. IMO 60cc's is a good all around firewood saw. Any of the newer offerings from the major brands will work well. If buying used you can find used 036 Stihls, and 359 Huskies for good prices. Depending on the size of the wood you are after, a 70cc saw may be a nice upgrade as we. MS440, MS460, 372 Husky, etc.

 

[josh1981]

Stihl MS361 is a good all around saw. Can cut big wood but still handle trimming/delimbing. I have one. This is the saw I use the most. I also have 066 and 211 stihl but again my 361 is the one I use the most.

460, 361 for stihl

5100, 7900 dolmar

357xp husky

how much power do you need and how big will u be cutting...

 

[dieselmissfire]

The biggest tree I had to cut was a 25-28 inch hickory that got felled from an ice storm and it was fun having to go side to side. I was hoping to get a saw that could handle a 36 inch bar so I wouldn't have any problems and I could just cut straight through. The 290 is awesome for small stuff but when it gets to the big hickory it doesn't quite have the power. Can anyone explain skip chains and when I would need one or if I would ever need one also?

thank you

 

[oscar4883]

36in. bar is Stihl 660, Husky 394/395 territory. Skip chains have about 2/3 or so cutters compared to a full comp. chain like you are used to. The allow a saw to pull a longer bar easier for the most part. They also are much better at clearing chips which can be a problem in larger cuts. Consider a 70cc saw. You can pull a longer bar ,with skip-chain, for the rare occasions you need to and it will be a more useful saw. IMO

 

[josh1981]

I have a STIHL 066 magnum 100 cc dual port muffler with 20 inch bar/stihl rsc 3/8 chain non skip and it does well on bigger wood 25 inches or so. It actually cuts very fast witrh this setup. But I only use it on those rare occasions I do need it.

I use a 361 stihl 20 B/C 3/8 chain stihl RSC as my main saw and have a new 211 for delimbing. lighter then your 290 (I know I had one at one time) pro saw lots of power.

Why not a 361 or 362 which replaced 361 and has better a/v fuel consumption etc. or even a 441? 362/441 half price of 660 ($1200 or so).

dont need to spend a fortune for occasional use since it sounds like you use 290 as main saw anyway.

 

[peregordusmc]

My opinion you dont really need to go over 60cc's for cutting firewood. In my business my main saw is the MS 362 and when i cut firewood thats the only saw i use. The 362 is what replaced the MS 361. I dont think you will have much luck finding the MS 361 any more but if you do it will probably go cheap and i wouldnt hesitate picking it up. I use skip tooth chain on my saws. Mostly because i hand sharpen my chains and its quicker. It was mentioned earlier about the skip tooth and that was good info you should store in the memory banks for when you are using a bigger saw. One bit of safety i will throw out there is it is a good idea to take someone with you when you are out cutting if possible. Things....wicked things happen out in the woods. Keep your eyes on your cutting AND up in the tops of the tree you are cutting. Small branches falling 30-40-50 feet can kill. Hard Hat a major plus. Oh and the comment about just getting a spare bar for your saw is good advice too.

 

[Cheese Whiz]

The saw nuts here are gonna smack me for this, but get yourself a smaller "limbing" saw. If you're happy with your Stihl (and the dealer), get a MS171, 181, or 211 (mostly the same size saw, just more ccs and more power, along with more $$$), otherwise if you can find a Dolmar dealer, the 420 is a mean little saw. I'm sure Husky/Jred has decent 35-45 cc saws as well, just not familiar with their models.

Why do I say this? That 290 of yours is good enough for "most" firewood cutting. It's no hot rod, but it will get-er-done. Big wood will be a lot easier with a big saw, but it's also a lot more work to process, sticking to 20" and less if you have a choice is more productive. A small saw when limbing and cutting smaller stuff won't wear you out as fast, and working tired can get dangerous. It will be able to cut the big saw out of trouble in an emergency as well.

Get ya a limbing saw, then go find yerself a big ole monster saw the NEXT (and there will be a next if you hang out here) time CAD (chainsaw acquisition disorder, we all got it here) strikes.

I'd personally stay away from an 051, or even the slightly newer 056 for a working saw. Some parts are pretty hard to find. Fun fixer upper and occasional toy, but get an 046/066 or 460/660 Stihl and you'll have a much nicer more reliable saw. 7900 Dolmar better yet.

My 2 cents, and some bonus words.

Subliminal message here: Dolmar rules!

 

[diggers_dad]

The saw nuts here are gonna smack me for this, but get yourself a smaller "limbing" saw. If you're happy with your Stihl (and the dealer), get a MS171, 181, or 211 (mostly the same size saw, just more ccs and more power, along with more $$$), otherwise if you can find a Dolmar dealer, the 420 is a mean little saw. I'm sure Husky/Jred has decent 35-45 cc saws as well, just not familiar with their models.

Why do I say this? That 290 of yours is good enough for "most" firewood cutting. It's no hot rod, but it will get-er-done. Big wood will be a lot easier with a big saw, but it's also a lot more work to process, sticking to 20" and less if you have a choice is more productive. A small saw when limbing and cutting smaller stuff won't wear you out as fast, and working tired can get dangerous. It will be able to cut the big saw out of trouble in an emergency as well.

Get ya a limbing saw, then go find yerself a big ole monster saw the NEXT (and there will be a next if you hang out here) time CAD (chainsaw acquisition disorder, we all got it here) strikes.

I'd personally stay away from an 051, or even the slightly newer 056 for a working saw. Some parts are pretty hard to find. Fun fixer upper and occasional toy, but get an 046/066 or 460/660 Stihl and you'll have a much nicer more reliable saw. 7900 Dolmar better yet.

My 2 cents, and some bonus words.

Subliminal message here: Dolmar rules!

Good advice! This worked well for me until CAD struck.

 

[turnkey4099]

For a 2-saw operation a good choice wouild be the 361/361 20'BC with a 25 or 28" extra bar/skip tooth chain for the rare 'big stuff'. 2nd saw one with at most a 16" bar (14" better) for limbing and trimming. MS210/211 would be at the top end of that group. When Cad strikes perhaps a 'big' saw in the 441 or 660 range but you are talking real bucks up in that area.

Me? I started witn one 20" bar saw and now have 4 (3 20") and a 361 for the 'big' stuff - that one has done trees over 4' diameter. You only really need a long bar for the falling operation and should be long engough to overlap cuts going from both sides of the log.

I have done a 4' log with a 20" bar but that is real work. Cut from both sides (cuts don't reach) for 3 or 4 rounds. Wedge chunks off round 1, 2 and 3 (leaves an uncut stub), cut stub, cut another 3 or 4 rounds and repeat witht he wedging. Ever need todo that again I will be looking for a loaner or a rental saw big enough to handle the job

Harry K
Harry K

 

[cuttingintime]

Cheese whiz post makes a whole lot sense to me.