Need info on new bar for Jonsered 910 910E

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Kiss4aFrog

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I have a hand me down Jonsered 910E in average condition. I'd like to use it for general clean up and trimming of trees, infrequent cutting one up for firewood.
First day with it the recoil broke and the fuel smelled like varnish. Ordered the recoil spring and installed and cleaned out the gas. It runs pretty well and will idle. Feeding it ethanol free fuel with a little cleaner mixed in. I'm happy with the way it runs just trying to figure out what it will need to get it back into proper shape. I'm thinking the PO just used it and put it away wet without taking too much care.

The bar I presently have is a Total bar, Total, Super Bar 24” 48P – V84 3/8 050 – 058 and when I put something across the bottom of the bar it had about a 35 deg tilt so I know the bar needs to be evened out. It's old and I'm guessing the channel is well worn too so I'm thinking replacement.

What I don't get from reading and I know very little about chainsaws is the gauge. I thought it needed to be a .050 or a .058 ?? This bar has stamped in it .050-.058 like it can use both. Wouldn't that make the .050 wobble a bit too much ??

I have four chains for it and they are A2 and .058 so if I replace the bar I'd like to get another 24" bar with a .058 gauge. From doing a bit of shopping on line it seems all the replacements are .050 and if so then are my chains useless in that bar ??

Can anyone give any insight into why the felling spikes are different ?? Is there some reason someone would set it up this way ?? Can this cause a problem when trying to cut straight or in uneven wear on the bar ?? I have the regular 5 spike dog on one side and the heavy duty 4 spike dog on the other ??

Any and all advise and links to suppliers welcome. Does anyone know of a good reputable chainsaw guru in the Minneapolis/St.Paul MN area ??
 

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First, the old Jonsered mount is obsolete. What you'll find new these days is a universal mount that also works with the Homelite XL mount saws.

That said, seems that most original type Jonsered mount bars you'll find will be .058 gauge so you'll need to match your chain. The bar you have pictured is undoubtedly .058 gauge.

Try to square your old bar and clean off burrs. As long as your chain will ride on the rails and not let the drivers bottom out in the groove, you'll be good. Is that .050/.058 stamped in the bar tip and not the bar itself? Bars are grooved for one gauge only, tips are more universal fit.

Will some filing to slightly widen the slot, you can make any large mount Husqvarna fit the 910.
 
Is the difference in a 910 to a 910E just the ignition system ??

AVB I appreciate the link but that bar is no longer available :-( It does however give me a part number to use on other sites. I've been working on some snow blowers and I use that site and others for parts but didn't think to try them for the chainsaw.

Yes , , , yes it does have that .050 - .058 stamped on the tip !! That makes sense out of that then. The bar is a .058 since all the chains are. I'll have to look closer at the bar as I've only started cleaning and inspecting and I thought I had the info for the bar when it's only the tip. I did take it out to try it and it cut very poorly.
It was just used for years without anyone taking any care of it. I'm just looking at fixing it up to use occasionally but trying to figure out what to replace now as parts get more scarce for it.

Is there any benefit to one size spike over the other ?? My inclination is to buy a match for the smaller 5 spike on the inside. I don't see an advantage to the more aggressive 4 but is there one ??
 
Sorry about that... That one of the reasons I don't order as much through Jack's as I did a few years ago. They are not keeping things update on their website as I like. I also found an Amazon link for the bar I listed at Mowtownusa but I couldn't pull anything on the their website directly at all. Sure is frustrating giving a bad link. It got to where I end calling an verifying that the parts list are actually available even when the item is as "In Stock" before I quote a repair here on an older piece of equipment.

Good luck on finding what you need.
 
Is the difference in a 910 to a 910E just the ignition system ??

AVB I appreciate the link but that bar is no longer available :-( It does however give me a part number to use on other sites. I've been working on some snow blowers and I use that site and others for parts but didn't think to try them for the chainsaw.

Yes , , , yes it does have that .050 - .058 stamped on the tip !! That makes sense out of that then. The bar is a .058 since all the chains are. I'll have to look closer at the bar as I've only started cleaning and inspecting and I thought I had the info for the bar when it's only the tip. I did take it out to try it and it cut very poorly.
It was just used for years without anyone taking any care of it. I'm just looking at fixing it up to use occasionally but trying to figure out what to replace now as parts get more scarce for it.

Is there any benefit to one size spike over the other ?? My inclination is to buy a match for the smaller 5 spike on the inside. I don't see an advantage to the more aggressive 4 but is there one ??


As far as I know there was never a points ign 910........the 910 E and the 910 EV (heated handles) were a fairly short run production then they went to the 920/930.

I have also never seen an outer dog to match the stock 5 tooth...only the heavy duty ones like the one you have, or similar after market dogs.

Be easy on the trigger handle lower AV mounts...they are hard to come by and were a weak point on the 910 models.....if you get the saw pinched find a way to free it besides yanking on it.

910E is a nice saw and yours look to be in pretty good shape....
 
Well I guess I need to track down a 4 spike inner then. I'd like them to match. I know a tree isn't smooth but I figure with the same length spikes you stand a better chance of keeping the bar straight.
Any idea why someone would do uneven spikes ??

Thanks for the heads up on the vibration mount. Will try not to get it stuck and if I do not to pull it by the handle to get it out.

Pulled the clutch today to inspect the bearing and sprocket. The bolt is reverse threaded, clockwise to remove. Have a new drum, bearing and sprocket on it's way.
 

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Well I guess I need to track down a 4 spike inner then. I'd like them to match. I know a tree isn't smooth but I figure with the same length spikes you stand a better chance of keeping the bar straight.
Any idea why someone would do uneven spikes ??

Thanks for the heads up on the vibration mount. Will try not to get it stuck and if I do not to pull it by the handle to get it out.

Pulled the clutch today to inspect the bearing and sprocket. The bolt is reverse threaded, clockwise to remove. Have a new drum, bearing and sprocket on it's way.

Yeah saw that in your other thread.......that one was run way to long....drivers came through and wore into the spline.....drive rims are cheap.....I replace every couple chains as was stated above.

I don't know that different length spikes will cause any particular problem......the larger, outer one will be doing 95% of the work....be about the same as only having the single inner spike like most saws do.....but it does look bad.....I have had an NOS heavy inner one for my 910 build project and just last week found an outer heavy duty NOS one to complete the set. Just have to keep an eye on ebay.....
 
The bad thing about this is now I'm starting to look forward to bringing my old David Bradley home and start to find a recoil for it, clean the carb and see if I can get it running once this one is back together !!
 
Cantdog, any chance you have a workshop PDF on the 910 ?? All I have is the illustrated parts breakdown.
 
Jonsered made the 2 different size spikes for those. The larger is considered the Western spike.
I may have an extra 5 point like your inner if your interested.
 
I have a hand me down Jonsered 910E in average condition. I'd like to use it for general clean up and trimming of trees, infrequent cutting one up for firewood.
First day with it the recoil broke and the fuel smelled like varnish. Ordered the recoil spring and installed and cleaned out the gas. It runs pretty well and will idle. Feeding it ethanol free fuel with a little cleaner mixed in. I'm happy with the way it runs just trying to figure out what it will need to get it back into proper shape. I'm thinking the PO just used it and put it away wet without taking too much care.

The bar I presently have is a Total bar, Total, Super Bar 24” 48P – V84 3/8 050 – 058 and when I put something across the bottom of the bar it had about a 35 deg tilt so I know the bar needs to be evened out. It's old and I'm guessing the channel is well worn too so I'm thinking replacement.

What I don't get from reading and I know very little about chainsaws is the gauge. I thought it needed to be a .050 or a .058 ?? This bar has stamped in it .050-.058 like it can use both. Wouldn't that make the .050 wobble a bit too much ??

I have four chains for it and they are A2 and .058 so if I replace the bar I'd like to get another 24" bar with a .058 gauge. From doing a bit of shopping on line it seems all the replacements are .050 and if so then are my chains useless in that bar ??

Can anyone give any insight into why the felling spikes are different ?? Is there some reason someone would set it up this way ?? Can this cause a problem when trying to cut straight or in uneven wear on the bar ?? I have the regular 5 spike dog on one side and the heavy duty 4 spike dog on the other ??

Any and all advise and links to suppliers welcome. Does anyone know of a good reputable chainsaw guru in the Minneapolis/St.Paul MN area ??


This won't help you, but it gives me a chance to crow.

3-4 years back I was looking at the Baileys site and came across some 24 and 28 inch bars for that mount.

They were Carlton/Tsumura bars (clearance) and the price was fantastic!

Think i paid 20 bucks ea. for the 24s and 24 ea. for the 28s.

I don't even own a Jonsereds, but they fit my big Huskys (just a little slop)

Them Tsumuras are made from some very nice steel!
 
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