New 260 purchase

[daemon2525]

Unless something really strange happens, I have finally decided on the 260.

I have a couple of questions though.

First. 260 or 260 pro? I am mostly healthy and do not think that I have to have the compression release. Is it worth the trouble to have anyway? Or one more thing to go wrong? The oiler adjust. I am old fashion and like to see oil. Again, one more thing to go wrong? The sticker. It's kinda neat to see the word PRO on a saw. Lastly, My dealer has a 260 in stock and would have to order the PRO. I am such a nice guy that I might buy the saw that he has in stock just for his sake, (if there is any).

Beak-IN. I saw in another thread that you should not WOT the machine for a little while?

Chain/Bar. I think I'll go with an 18" bar. and I think that I'll like the non-safety chain better. I am experienced in running saws.

Any Opinions?

 

[slowsuki]

from what i have read most pro,s buy 026 non pro something about the oiler but can not remember.do a search on 026 by its self do not put stihl in there or you will get every post from this site.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

This has been talked about quite a bit before, and the general concensus is that the Pro is woth the money. Like has been said, the decomp on a 260 isn't for you, it's for the saw. It lessens stress on the starting parts, it's not there to determine your manhood. The adjustable oiler is worth the extra alone.

And for break-in, do a search on this site for that, and you'll get as much reading as which oil mixture to read. Run it like normal, but don't rev it out of the cut.

Where are you in Indiana?

Jeff

 

[West Texas]

I agree with Jeff, the 260 Pro is worth the extra money.

 

[daemon2525]

Thanks for the tips guys. I hope others respond, but it sounds like I might as well get the PRO. I just thought maybe there was a chance that the extra parts might be inclined to fail. Is there such a thing as a decomp leaking and robbing compression?

I'm in Fort Wayne.

 

[Dr_dewey]

my dealer said no full power for first 4 -5 tanks.

and use slightly richer mix. 9L to a small oil jug rather than the normal 10L.

 

[Patrick62]

I want one as well

I will probably go with the pro, I agree the compression release isn't needed. Half the time I start a 460 without pushing the button...

I talked to my local Stihl shop, and they tried to convince me to get a 270, 280, 361, etc. My mind is set on the 260. I am upgrading a 2145 Jred.

For some reason, straight out of the box they started the 460 and wound it up tight for a few. He said it helps.... I was fairly gentle with it for a few tanks. After that I let it fly.

-Pat

 

[ticket writer]

Funny, I just went through this same dilemma last week. I decided on the regular 260 and I'm glad I did. First,the saw throws a ton of oil to the bar. The saw is also very easy to start without the decomp valve. I've got about 7 tanks of gas through it already and I'm very satisfied on the cutting performance. I'm running a 16" .325 narrow kerf bailey's semi-chisel chain with great results. The saw has good power and surprisingly a decent amount of torque for a 50cc saw. I did use my digital tach after about 5 tanks and found it to be revving at 14,300 rpm's. I tried to set the carb back but ran out of adjustment due to those darn limiter caps. I ordered the stihl service tool (part # 5910 890 4500A) to properly remove them and readjusted the carb to around 13,300 which gave the saw a tad more power in the cut then before. If you don't need to have that little sticker that says "PRO" on your saw I think you be just fine with the regular 260. Just my opinion.

 

[daemon2525]

Sounds like I'll have a PRO.

I'll call the dealer and see how long it takes to get one. It really does not matter. (a couple days, week?)

man.. that PRO sticker is NEAT.

 

[Lakeside53]

my dealer said no full power for first 4 -5 tanks.

and use slightly richer mix. 9L to a small oil jug rather than the normal 10L.

You dealer is not correct. You can have FULL POWER, just not MAX RPM... You always cut at full throttle, but keep it in the wood at less than 10-11k..

It's not so much that the oiler is adjustable on the pro, but that it doesn't pump oil unless the chain is running. if you idle a non-pro it pumps oil everywhere... Not a big deal, but... I like the pro for this reason alone.

Search will turn up lot's of discussion in prior threads...

 

[JPP]

I bought the 260 Pro with 16" bar and low kickback chains. I am experienced with chainsaws, but just feel better using the low kickback chains.

The saw is a dream to use...light, lots of power, very easy to start. Haven't used the adjustable oiler yet.

I don't know how you CAN'T go WOT when cutting wood? You must always be at full speed into wood.

Someone here once said that the 'Pro' sticker on the saw give it more resale value if you decide to sell some day.

 

[Lakeside53]

I don't know how you CAN'T go WOT when cutting wood? You must always be at full speed into wood.

.

Some confusion here... WOT is not the same as full power... WOT generally refers to the max speed with chain out OUT of the wood. During break-in prolonged WOT out of the wood is the problem; in the wood it's not an issue and is how you should be cutting. When in the wood the saw slows down considerably... WOT out of the wood is 14k, in the wood maybe 8-11K... depending on the wood, chain etc...

Just rev it and enter the wood about the same time... you'll be fine...

 

[sedanman]

Lakeside, Go take a look at the bar/chain catalog. It lists a serial number break for the 026. Prior to the s/n the oiler will pump oil when the saw is running, after the magic number the oiler is driven by the clutch drum and only oils when the chain is turning.

 

[Lakeside53]

Lakeside, Go take a look at the bar/chain catalog. It lists a serial number break for the 026. Prior to the s/n the oiler will pump oil when the saw is running, after the magic number the oiler is driven by the clutch drum and only oils when the chain is turning.

Not so sure about that...

That serial number break (225xxxx.. or 125xxx..) is from about 1993 and doesn't relate to the drive of the pump. It's possible that you can put on the later drum that "can" drive a pump worm spur, but unless you change the pump it won't affect oil delivery. Apart from a few odd ball versions (like Arctic in some areas) the 026 / 260 has always had different pumps from the 026 Pro..

I recently sold a pump conversion kit to an AS member with a new 260 (he didn't like that it pumped oil without the chain running), and the brand new stock 260 we sold yesterday serial number (267xxxxxxxx) had non-adjustable and non-clutch drive pump. I just checked the other inventory and the same thing...

The current production MS260 is using the 1121 640 3202 (plastic body) non-adjustable continuous drive pump.

 

[sedanman]

My 026 (non pro ) had a clutch driven oil pump. If you took the drum off you had to be sure to align the notch in the drum with the wire tab on the pump drive gear. I sold my 026 to a member here to finance my 361 purchase so it is not posible for me to disassemble and photograph the parts.

 

[Lakeside53]

It's interesting that you say this (and I do believe you) because this come up from time to time and everyone (mainly me) ends up arguing that black isn't white, but somewhere it is . I talked to Stihl NW about this - they are adamant that only the Pro models (and a maybe handful of Arctics) got, and still get, the adjustable pump... Did yours come from the factory like that or did someone change it out? The adjustable pump is listed as an "option" but I can't find anyone that remembers it to be an "ordering option".

I'm starting to believe that there was a batch that got into circulation that did have pro pumps, but this the exception, not the rule, and was never "official" which is why it's not in the IPL's or tech data. Maybe they were made in another county and shipped into the USA (serial number beginning with other than a "2")

I'm good friends with cheapstihlparts and he (and me helping him) has broken apart a lot (maybe hundreds) of 026/260 in the past few years, and we only see the adjustable pumps in the Pro's The non-pro have one of three pumps (round metal, white plastic, and black plastic), all crankshaft driven.

The bottom line here is that if anyone wants the drum driven pump, you need to check not only for the existence of the hole in the crank case (they've all has this since about 1998), but for the existence of the adjustment screw in the adjuster hole to indicate an adjustable pump.

 

[16gauge]

My 026 (non pro ) had a clutch driven oil pump. If you took the drum off you had to be sure to align the notch in the drum with the wire tab on the pump drive gear. I sold my 026 to a member here to finance my 361 purchase so it is not posible for me to disassemble and photograph the parts.

I have the 026 clutch drum and worm in a plastic bag in the gun room. Just upgraded to the "no oil on idle" version. The new clutch has the slot for the stem that runs the oiler and it was a simple UPGRADE. Need several new parts and the basic tools for conversion. Be careful to save the oil hose. Not all the 026s have the slot in the bottom for the adjustment. Make sure yours does before ordering these parts.

 

[Lakeside53]

I have the 026 clutch drum and worm in a plastic bag in the gun room. Just upgraded to the "no oil on idle" version. The new clutch has the slot for the stem that runs the oiler and it was a simple UPGRADE. Need several new parts and the basic tools for conversion. Be careful to save the oil hose. Not all the 026s have the slot in the bottom for the adjustment. Make sure yours does before ordering these parts.

...and in case anyone thinks its as simple as drilling the "missing" hole, it's not - the adjustible pump won't even fit in the case if the adjustment hole is not cast into the crankcase.

 

[daemon2525]

back to the top!

I got the saw today!. MS260 PRO. I did not get any breaks on the price though! . I got charged for the 16 to 18" upgrade, 1/2 price for the first extra chain, and full price for the next.

I have one green chain that came with it. and I bought 2 yellow chains. Will I regret that? I am very confident with a saw.

 

[JPP]

I went with the 16" bar and they gave me 1 spare chain.
Are you asking if you will regret getting the yellow chains? No, they cut better than the green. However, the green chain cuts great anyways.
I paid $479 and got a case for half price.
You will like the decompression valve after you've been cutting for a couple of hours and want to restart the saw. I appreciate it very much.