new 372xp xtorq carb questions.

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thejeep

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Well 1st post here.
just received, via fed ex, a brand new never started, 372xp xt and had a couple of questions. i had to replace the clutch in my truck today and didn't get to play with the new toy as much as i wanted to get it all squared away. now it is dark so i figured i would just ask.
1. start up procedure and throttle trigger.
When i initially start from cold i pull the choke out, do i need to pull the throttle trigger also? my old husky 66 seemed like when you depressed the grip safety (skinny piece of plastic on the back of handle facing the palm) and the pulled the throttle trigger you could make the trigger stick at WOT for start up. on the 372 it seems like the trigger won't stay depressed at WOT unless i manually hold it there. does the throttle trigger need to be depressed during startup from cold.

2. i flooded it today 2 times. so what is the correct startup procedure? once warm it starts just fine with one pull.

3. There is an occasional bog off idle i think i noticed it more with the bar angled down ward. i read the manual :cry: last night and it said not to screw with the h/l/idle screws till 10hours so today i didn't screw with them. I did however turn the L screw to see where it is at. Currently it is backed out to the limiter. So could the bog be a rich bog which could be fixed turning the screw in, or a lean bog where i need to turn the screw out. didnt check the plug. ran out of time.

4. i figure i'll leave the H alone till the 10 hour break in but after that i have heard mention of a special tool needed to adjust the screws past the limiters, where can this be obtained?
 
Do like tlandrum said and start the saw like your manual says and you'll never flood it.

Also, the off idle bog should go way after the saw it warmed up.
 
372xp starting

This forum is so convenient and helpful. I just got a 372xp and a new 445 due to having to replace four saws that burnt up in a fire. The biggest ones I had before was a 455 and a 55, so I decided to get a pro-saw as I do a lot of cutting. I lost the 445 and after 50 tanks of gas through it, I loved it for the lighter work. Anyway I was having trouble starting the 372 when warm and I figured I must be doing something wrong as this saw is different. Sure enough you guys made my day and I read the manual. The choke has to reset even when the saw is warm. SHAZZZZZZZZZZam. No trouble now and no flooding!!!! This saw is just different and after some time with it I will definitely add upper body muscles, and this saw has enough umpphf to pull a freight train.
 
Dont adjust one of those saws without a tach, the difference between a little rich, perfect and melted piston is about 300 rpm. The rev limiting coil sounds more like a slightly rich conventional 2 stroke than a stumbling breaking down coil. I've already seen two 2172's with burned down p&c's due to improper dealer set-up.
 
off idle bog went away by fattening up the low screw with my new adjustment tool. haven't adjusted the h since i dont have a tach but it is a little rich as it 4 strokes occaisionally in the cut.
 
I can't get mine started with the pressure release valve open - floods instantly.

I also don't use the choke if it's ran in the past two hours. Starts first pull warm.
 
i never use the decompression on mine. once you get the starting procedure down you wont have any problems. Nice saw
 
What kind of special tool is required to adjust the carb on the X torque saws? Are they the

Same limiter caps as previous generations had? screw tool on to remove plastic cap, trim tabs then reinstall. I'm asking as I am getting a used 2011 X torque in a day or two.
 
What kind of special tool is required to adjust the carb on the X torque saws? Are they the

Same limiter caps as previous generations had? screw tool on to remove plastic cap, trim tabs then reinstall. I'm asking as I am getting a used 2011 X torque in a day or two.

no, you need one of these
carbtool.jpg


works on the 390 also.
 
no, you need one of these
carbtool.jpg


works on the 390 also.

Thanks, I've been out of the loop awhile... What's the best place to pick one of those up? Didn't see them listed on Baileys and I'm sure that isn't going to be cheap..
 
The magic screw driver in the picture pushes the limiters out of the way so you can freely turn the mixture screws.

The mixture screws actually have flat screw driver slots in them but travel is limited to about 3/4 turn by the limiters.
 
The magic screw driver in the picture pushes the limiters out of the way so you can freely turn the mixture screws.

The mixture screws actually have flat screw driver slots in them but travel is limited to about 3/4 turn by the limiters.

Oh ok. Perhaps I didn't need to trim the limiter tabs as I was instructed in my thread. Funny I even have one of those tools from Northwood from when I owned a 450.
 
You can reset the screws within the limiters by pressing the limiter ring in with one small screw driver while moving the needle in the desired direction with another small screw driver.

You have to remove the big black rubber piece to do this.
 
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