promo code CUT 2
I've had mine for 4 months. i do a better job with this then files or ele grinder but you have to keep the tool level one side will try to rise. i'm hoping they will at the Maine expo this weekend would like to buy another cutter
New Chain Sharpener
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promo code CUT 2
I've had mine for 4 months. i do a better job with this then files or ele grinder but you have to keep the tool level one side will try to rise. i'm hoping they will at the Maine expo this weekend would like to buy another cutter
Moparmyway
Its just a saw
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I got no discount, and I still think this is th ebest thing to have in the field !!
I use a grinder when I rock my chains, but in the field, I aint got no grinder !! This is the best way to correctly sharpen a rocked chain in the field, better than a file and dont need no electric like I do with a grinder !!
All in all, its a usefull tool in the field if you are short on chains and good on rocks, but I still try to file mine and will grind when necessary
Timberline Sharpener Review
Last Thursday I ordered the Timberline Sharpener from timberlinesharpener.com. I was surprised to find it was delivered two days later on Saturday morning, excellent service. I also purchased an extra burr, a 5/32" for my climbing saws. Over the weekend I sharpened five saws. Here are my impressions:
First, I have been sharpening with an electric grinder for about fifteen years. For quite a few of them I would do 15 - 20 saws on Sunday nights to get them ready for a week's work with a tree crew. It has always bothered me that no matter how I tried, I could never get them to cut as well as a new loop and that the edges did not last as long as when they were new. Currently I use an Oregon 511 to repair damaged cutters and file with a little Husqvarna file guide in between grindings to keep them sharp. The guide is the type that drops over the top of the chain, the file running on plastic rollers and lets the operator turn the file. This keeps a saw productive but does not throw chips with the raucus abandon of a new loop... So I tried the Timberline.
The first attempt was a Husky 575, 20", full comp. I'd watched the vid and had read the instructions and the first attempt was a clumsy one but I soon got the hang of it. Tighten the two outside screws enough so the sharpener won't move. Snug the center screw up enough so that the burr will go into the cutter easily. Use multiple passes, very lightly on the first and second passes. My first saw took about an hour, fumbling around, trying to find the best work methods but the results were really fine. I have a fresh pile of big balsam poplar in the yard. The chain threw nice, fat, rectangular chips, no masa harina (corn meal.) Next was a 84cc Dolmar, also 20" bar and full comp. It was easier. Best advise I can give is don't hurry. Make multiple light cuts. When I was finished, I cut another poplar cookie. It seemed to cut better than new chain. After that I switched to two climbing saws, Echo 360T's with 12" bars and lo-pro chain. They seemed to me to cut better than they ever had, like they had found an extra 5cc's. The last saw was a Husky 394 with a 28"bar that i use for flushing stumps and dicing cottonwoods, our biggest trees here in N. New Mexico. The full skip chain had some light damage from its last job but three passes later the cutters looked like new and threw chips four feet behind me.
To summarize: The Timberline puts a precise razor-sharp edge on the chain and does it without overheating the steel and annealing it. So the edge should last as log as one on a new loop. I'd recommend using a grinder for serious damage, if you hit a rock or nail, then follow with the Timberline to restore the cutters. I've had guys tell me that they could file a new chain and make it cut better. Now I believe it. Also, I was surprised by how much abrasive residue from the grinder appeared as I was sharpening with the Timberline That's another reason chains don't stay sharp after grinding.
My opinion: This is a good tool.
Last Thursday I ordered the Timberline Sharpener from timberlinesharpener.com. I was surprised to find it was delivered two days later on Saturday morning, excellent service. I also purchased an extra burr, a 5/32" for my climbing saws. Over the weekend I sharpened five saws. Here are my impressions:
First, I have been sharpening with an electric grinder for about fifteen years. For quite a few of them I would do 15 - 20 saws on Sunday nights to get them ready for a week's work with a tree crew. It has always bothered me that no matter how I tried, I could never get them to cut as well as a new loop and that the edges did not last as long as when they were new. Currently I use an Oregon 511 to repair damaged cutters and file with a little Husqvarna file guide in between grindings to keep them sharp. The guide is the type that drops over the top of the chain, the file running on plastic rollers and lets the operator turn the file. This keeps a saw productive but does not throw chips with the raucus abandon of a new loop... So I tried the Timberline.
The first attempt was a Husky 575, 20", full comp. I'd watched the vid and had read the instructions and the first attempt was a clumsy one but I soon got the hang of it. Tighten the two outside screws enough so the sharpener won't move. Snug the center screw up enough so that the burr will go into the cutter easily. Use multiple passes, very lightly on the first and second passes. My first saw took about an hour, fumbling around, trying to find the best work methods but the results were really fine. I have a fresh pile of big balsam poplar in the yard. The chain threw nice, fat, rectangular chips, no masa harina (corn meal.) Next was a 84cc Dolmar, also 20" bar and full comp. It was easier. Best advise I can give is don't hurry. Make multiple light cuts. When I was finished, I cut another poplar cookie. It seemed to cut better than new chain. After that I switched to two climbing saws, Echo 360T's with 12" bars and lo-pro chain. They seemed to me to cut better than they ever had, like they had found an extra 5cc's. The last saw was a Husky 394 with a 28"bar that i use for flushing stumps and dicing cottonwoods, our biggest trees here in N. New Mexico. The full skip chain had some light damage from its last job but three passes later the cutters looked like new and threw chips four feet behind me.
To summarize: The Timberline puts a precise razor-sharp edge on the chain and does it without overheating the steel and annealing it. So the edge should last as log as one on a new loop. I'd recommend using a grinder for serious damage, if you hit a rock or nail, then follow with the Timberline to restore the cutters. I've had guys tell me that they could file a new chain and make it cut better. Now I believe it. Also, I was surprised by how much abrasive residue from the grinder appeared as I was sharpening with the Timberline That's another reason chains don't stay sharp after grinding.
My opinion: This is a good tool.
wanoyee
ArboristSite Member
Does anyone know the cheapest place to order one?
Greenland South
ArboristSite Operative
...Valley.
Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener |Sharpen Your Chainsaw
you'll be surprised at the service. i got mine in two days. the postage was cheaper than a trip to town in the f250.
SierraWoodsman
ArboristSite Guru
Heyduke, Good Review.
I also found the results to be "Better" than brand new chain.
I also found the results to be "Better" than brand new chain.
wanoyee
ArboristSite Member
Well, you're both right!
Sharpener only... Lee Valley $108.95 is better price
Sharpener w/ 1 extra cutter... Timberline $130.40 is better price
I'm thinking about getting the extra cutter, prices are only going up. Has anyone gone through a cutter yet? How long did they last for you?
Thanks! yeah, this gadget is like finding a new duck. it's really made me look at the way i've been sharpening all these years.
i'm not sure, but most of the places i've heard about seem to be forwarding their orders to timberline in idaho for "fulfilment." you can tell because nobody else would have them in your mail box two days later.
I sharpened fifteen or sixteen saws with my first cutters. three of those were lo-pro climbing saws. the rest were 3/8". i damaged the 7/32" cutter by being ham fisted and trying to cut too much too early but i've got my work flow figured out and my second 7/32" should last a long time. i still haven't sharpened the .404 on my 084. i'm a little worried that the cutter won't be long enough to go all the way across. anyway, i'd suggest getting two of your most used cutters with an initial order to get you thru your apprenticeship.
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Now use a battery powered drill at low range speed setting to drive the carbide tool ...
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
When I borrowed Gologit's Timberline sharpener I used it on a loop of .404 chisel. The cutter was more than long enough to go all the way across. Took a bit of time for me to get the unit square on the bar before starting, as the .404 chain is taller than 3/8" pitch. Had to position the unit pretty high on the bar. Worked well.
The chain was one of the many ####ed up used loops that I've ended up with on used saws. Was able to un-#### the angles and such on that chain. Throws chips and cuts straight now. I need to get one of those Timberlines, as I'm often undoing other people's crappy file work..........and .404 chain is getting EXPENSIVE.
wanoyee
ArboristSite Member
I came across an old Gamn sharpener... Looks like the Timberline is designed after it. Does anyone know if the Timberline cutters would fit on an old Gamn?
I've got one of both laying around here somewhere. Offhand, I'd say no. Maybe I'll dig around after my real job and see what the similarities are.
wanoyee
ArboristSite Member
Thanks gtsawyer, would really appreciate it... Let us know.
I only have one saw with .404 on it, an 084 with a 32" bar. i haven't sharpened that chain yet. i'll probably wait until i need to use it. fortunately i have half a roll of .404 in the shop. i should probably just change the saw over to .375 with a new bar tip.
yes, one thing about the timberline sharpener is it's humbling effect on the filer. my neighbor had some good size siberian elm that he needed to dice and split, thought he was a real stud with a file. i let him use my 272 with a freshly sharpened chain. he's real quiet now.
wanoyee
ArboristSite Member
Did you ever get around to seeing if the cutters from one would fit another?
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