New chain wont turn

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joe.snow

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Newbie question. I bought a new chain that is exactly same as the old one, but it doesn't move smoothly around the bar like the old one does. Its gets a bit jumpy as its leaves the sprocket. Does this mean i should also replace the sprocket?
 
Newbie question. I bought a new chain that is exactly same as the old one, but it doesn't move smoothly around the bar like the old one does. Its gets a bit jumpy as its leaves the sprocket. Does this mean i should also replace the sprocket?
If you can post pics of the sprocket Joe that will help. An old chain will move easier as it gets worn. Inspect the drivers on the new chain for any flaws.
 
I bought a nice little saw for $30 with a new bar and chain. Owner said chain wouldn't turn . Sprocket was wore through the teeth. Sold that saw near $200 after adding a sprocket to the equation.
Sprockets shouldn't be overlooked when going with a new chain. Wore sprockets don't mate right with new chains, causes some binding, robbing power, making vibration and they stretch chain.
 
Newbie question. I bought a new chain that is exactly same as the old one, but it doesn't move smoothly around the bar like the old one does. Its gets a bit jumpy as its leaves the sprocket. Does this mean i should also replace the sprocket?
You sure you have the correct pitch? Does exactly mean the same pitch, gauge and dl count?
 
Well i had a chainsaw shop match it up and he wrote on the box the pitch, gauge and dl count. 325 72 050. Same as the old original chain.
 

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i bought a new chain and a new bar for my saw .050. i could get the chain and bar on, but the chain wouldn't move, just like you. i either had a bur on the driver or a tight spot on the bar channel. i think it was teh latter and i worked through it. i spread the bar with my saw tool and dumped some bar oil in the gap and remounted it. the tight spot was at the heal of the bar, hidden behind the cover. i had to manually saw a log , to aid in the chain movement. it still wasnt enough, , so i started greasing the drivers, till the bar wore in. now i still grease the drivers, because it runs that much better. i had just replaced all the sprockets and needle bearings, simotaniously. it was just a goofy bar
 
i bought a new chain and a new bar for my saw .050. i could get the chain and bar on, but the chain wouldn't move, just like you. i either had a bur on the driver or a tight spot on the bar channel. i think it was teh latter and i worked through it. i spread the bar with my saw tool and dumped some bar oil in the gap and remounted it. the tight spot was at the heal of the bar, hidden behind the cover. i had to manually saw a log , to aid in the chain movement. it still wasnt enough, , so i started greasing the drivers, till the bar wore in. now i still grease the drivers, because it runs that much better. i had just replaced all the sprockets and needle bearings, simotaniously. it was just a goofy bar
Sounds like you got a wider chain then the bar groove originally was , but you were able to make it work cause of wear in the groove. The area behind the cover typically gets less wear and is the last tight spot to work a wider gauge chain through.
 
Sounds like you got a wider chain then the bar groove originally was , but you were able to make it work cause of wear in the groove. The area behind the cover typically gets less wear and is the last tight spot to work a wider gauge chain through.
it was only a inch section on the bar, everything else fit. i think it just was dropped on a hard floor before boxing
 
Remove bar and chain from the saw(power head)
Place chain on bar and try sliding chain around bar minus the power head which would eliminate the sprocket.
 
I've replaced the sprocket and it''s alot better except now and then when i'm moving the chain round by hand it feels like its catching on something. Anyone know what this might be? I've checked the bar and chain for burs. Or will it go away once the bar gets oil?
 

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