New Chainsaw for 4x4er/homeowner

[raskal]

I find it's always best to ask advice AFTER I've made a purchase... so here goes

I need a chainsaw for trail clearing when I'm out 4x4ing, so typical use will be small windfall up to 14". Space is a limiting factor in my truck.

I'll also use this for typical homeowner duties, limbing and occasional falling, but nothing real big as I'd get a professional for that. I'd also be doing some firewood, but not more than a 1/2 chord a season.

The saw I chose is the Echo 330T. I chose it cause it's small and easy to use one handed if need be on the trail to reach high up. I'm hoping it'll be powerful enough to cut through the extensive amount of pine beetle killed wood we have in B.C. (quite hard) for firewood.

I'm concerned with one comment I read on this site that said

top handles are significantly more dangerous and less effective than rear handled saws

what do you think of my choice?

thanks!

 

[Ianab]

Top handle saws are a bit more dangerous because the handles are closer together and there is a temptation (ability) to use them with one hand. This means you have less control of the saw if it kicks back. They are designed for professional use in confined space, usually when hanging from a rope.

Having said that the saw should be fine as a 'carry in the back of the wagon' tool for clearing felled trees and chopping up small firewood. Keep it sharp and look after it and it will gnaw though any sensible sized tree. Just take extra care with your hands and body position.. it's not a light sabre.. although it can have the same effect on flesh

Cheers

Ian

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Reaching up high is a very dangerous position to cut in. Use caution when you do, and two hands firmly on the saw.

Besides having less control when you cut one handed, you are putting the free hand and arm at risk. You can't cut your left hand if it's on the handle.

It happens all the time, the right hand doesn't tell the left hand it's going to go over there to cut, and the left hand gets right in the way.

 

[daemon2525]

I am gonna say bad choice. Top handle saws are harder to hang on to and you have already said that you are going to reach high.

Now imagine, reaching high, one hand on the saw, Since you are reaching there is more chance that just the tip of the saw will reach, thus causing the MOST likely chance of kickback. If it does kick back, it is coming at your head.


You could not have created a worse situation if you had tried.

 

[masiman]

I'd get a rear handle saw. The top handle is nice for tight quarters in a tree, but on the ground, give me a rear handle all the time. You will find that those little saws don't cut as fast as something a little bigger. Plus, sometimes you will need to put a little pressure on the cut, and that top handle does not do that well at all. I think you'll find it safer and probably better performing with a rear handle.

If you need to cut over your head, get yourself a nice little pruning hand saw. Those things can cut very quickly and are much safer than chainsaws if you need to work over your head.

Any chance you can return that Echo?

 

[rb_in_va]

Any chance you can return that Echo?

If not he can probably sell it on ebay by using phrases like "professional arborist saw" and "suckback preventer". But seriously I bet he could probably sell it for near new cost if he still has the box, manual, etc.

If you want to use it for firewood you need a different saw (or 3) anyway.

 

[chainsawchick67]

i have a small MS 230, sounds like something you coud use, its small, and light, but gets the job done too. TTR has a 200T that he uses, i have not used it just for the fact tha holding onto it feels uncomfortable to me. . . .just opionion. . .

 

[raskal]

thank you all for the replies!

I still like the compact size of the 330T, but a number of you seem to believe it's not the correct saw for me and I can definitely see what you're saying.

I haven't put any gas/oil in it yet so it's easily returnable so i will go and look at some other saws and come back here with more questions I'm sure.

 

[computeruser]

Top handle saws are a bit more dangerous because the handles are closer together and there is a temptation (ability) to use them with one hand. This means you have less control of the saw if it kicks back. They are designed for professional use in confined space, usually when hanging from a rope.

Having said that the saw should be fine as a 'carry in the back of the wagon' tool for clearing felled trees and chopping up small firewood. Keep it sharp and look after it and it will gnaw though any sensible sized tree. Just take extra care with your hands and body position.. it's not a light sabre.. although it can have the same effect on flesh

Cheers

Ian

Ian hit the nail on the head. It is not the best tool for ground-based cutting, but if you use your brain then the compactness of the saw can be a virtue.

If I were in your shoes and starting from zero, I'd buy a rear-handle Echo (CS346 for example) instead. With the muffler opened and with a good chain, it's a nice all-around trimming and limbing saw. They can be had for less than $180 new in box on eBay.

Incidentally, I was talking with the techs at my saw shop. They handle the repairs for a couple municipalities and major tree companies. A few of these organizations decided to trade their MS200T or Echo 3400 saws in and go with the new CS330/360 saws as a way to save money. Bad news. They have not held up in commercial use and they're hard to work on. Food for thought...

 

[PA Plumber]

I would probably consider the Echo CS-346. $190.00 new, including shipping on Fleabay. I have had no issues, have used it to cut hundreds of smaller trees, and for light limbing duty. I don't care for the spur sprocket but didn't know that when I bought it. Nice little saw and it has done everything I have asked it to do; just not very fast! I have been told a muffler mod will do wonders for it. I haven't gotten that far and have been using it stock.

 

[DGG]

I think your choice is on the small side for trail clearing.

The chainsaw purists will puh-puh this choice of saws but I think the Husky Rancher is perfect for what you are looking for. It isn't too heavy and yet it still has the guts to take out something bigger than your basic limbing chainsaw.

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/1974

A step up would be to what I use, the Husky 359.

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/991

 

[rb_in_va]

The chainsaw purists will poh-poh this choice of saws but I think the Husky Rancher is perfect for what you are looking for. It isn't too heavy and yet it still has the guts to take out something bigger than your basic limbing chainsaw.

I think the reason that people here steer clear of the 455 is because for the same price (or just a few bucks more) a person could get a much better saw. I believe a demo 5100 could be had for that price.

 

[raskal]

for me it's also still coming back to a space issue. Last time I went camping, I was stuffed to the roof with crap already. The Echo is only 25" long (14" bar) and that's one of the main reasons I went for the top handle design.

I've come to the realization that the little Echo probably won't have enough guts for what I want, but I'm still undecided since I'm a wimpy guy and cutting 14" logs will not be a common occurrence.

oh what to do....


oh also, Canada may have great health care, but we have lousy prices!! Everything here is at least $100 more than down south

 

[Austin1]

for me it's also still coming back to a space issue. Last time I went camping, I was stuffed to the roof with crap already. The Echo is only 25" long (14" bar) and that's one of the main reasons I went for the top handle design.

I've come to the realization that the little Echo probably won't have enough guts for what I want, but I'm still undecided since I'm a wimpy guy and cutting 14" logs will not be a common occurrence.

oh what to do....


oh also, Canada may have great health care, but we have lousy prices!! Everything here is at least $100 more than down south

I know your pain about prices now that are dollar is almost equal you would think it would change!
For three years I used a Poulan 2550 { much better than a Wildthing} as it has anti vibe I have no problem with those ''cheap''Poulans to me they will blow away any of the 40cc and under Stihls that is my personal experience!Mine had a muffler mod and a sharp I might say a very sharp chain. with a 14'' bar to me that is the way to go rather than spend the big bucks on a saw that will sit for 10 months a year.I gave my Poulan away after I bought my little solo but it was not because it was junk, I just ran out of room to keep all the saws I have.
Now my buddy has a Echo 346 for such use and I must say it does a great job. If we get a blow down 16'' spruce it cuts through it no problem way better than a hand saw or Axe and takes no space in the back of his early Bronco.I have no Brand loyalty and like them all except for the handle angle on Huskies but that is a personal thing.
To me any saw around 40cc will do fine if you feed it good fresh fuel and a good 2stroke oil. Just go with what feels good to you keep care of it and it will last! But I would stick to a rear handle saw.

 

[sawinredneck]

I think your choice is on the small side for trail clearing.

The chainsaw purists will puh-puh this choice of saws but I think the Husky Rancher is perfect for what you are looking for. It isn't too heavy and yet it still has the guts to take out something bigger than your basic limbing chainsaw.

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/1974

A step up would be to what I use, the Husky 359.

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/991

I was thinking 350, but even that is overkill for his needs.

 

[bushinspector]

I'm helping to build the Ozark Highlands Trail and we are running a 360-T Echo and it works great. I don't know how it matches up to the 330 but our Echo runs very well. If you are be carry it very far at all the 55 will be heavy.

 

[Vibes]

I know alot of you are gonna laugh at this one, but I use 2 of the old Craftsman top handle saws for that kind of duty. I have an orange 2.0 ci, 12''
and a gray 36cc 16''. The orange one is the same as a Poulan micro. The gray one is a the same as a Poulan timbermaster. I have a total of $50 dollars in the 2 of them. One from a yard sale, one from E-bay. Look for the ones with serial numbers that start with 358. something, and it should be a Poulan Baerd or earlier. These are very good saws and are easy to work on. They were usually the cheapest saw at Sears at the time and many homeowners bought them and used them once or twice and they're put away. My grey one was probably used once before I got it. Clean the carb and replace the fuel line and your good to go. The Micro might need a new air filter because they were made of that spongy stuff that tends to deteriorate with age, but I made a new one from a mower filter that I got at the flea market. My buddy got a real nice Micro with a 10'' bar on E-bay for $25.

 

[Just Mow]

thank you all for the replies!

I still like the compact size of the 330T, but a number of you seem to believe it's not the correct saw for me and I can definitely see what you're saying.

I haven't put any gas/oil in it yet so it's easily returnable so i will go and look at some other saws and come back here with more questions I'm sure.

I would take it back and purchase a Stihl MS200 rear handled saw. It should do a lot better job for what you are describing.

 

[stumpjumper83]

I think you made a good choice

I dunno, depending on how your plannin on using it it isn't a bad choice. I think some of the previous opinons are based on one using the saw for a job not as occasional use. If its for occasional trail clearing and cuttin firewood for camp use while out on the trail, it will do the job, and save valuable space too. I have a 330t w/ a 12" bar and in hardwood it doesn't want anything more. I also have a stihl 09L, ms250, & 460mag. Rear handle saws are easier to controll, and are nicer for limbing downed evergreens cause of longer reach, but take up more space due to the handle. I like to run mine with my left hand along side of the saw and the other runnin the trigger. If I had to choose which saw of mine to take it would be prolly be the 330 as long as I was cutting 14" and bellow softwood. :chainsawguy: