Just picked up a CS-4910. Looking for suggestions:
1. Spare chains, 0.325 x .050 72 links?
2. Any immediate mods or tuning advice?
1. Spare chains, 0.325 x .050 72 links?
2. Any immediate mods or tuning advice?
New Echo CS-4910
- Thread starter sundance
- Start date
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Open up the muff, pull the limiter cap and make sure it's tuned good . Give it 10 to 15 tanks to break in. My CS500 was rather doggy at first. Steve
echomeister
ArboristSite Operative
ANybody know if the drywall screw trick works on the limiters or do you have to buy a special tool?
I been eyeing one of these mysellf
I been eyeing one of these mysellf
I have done it, but one time I was two tough and the setscrew snapped. It's always a gamble of some sort to get rid of those limiters. There are different designs out there.
Just grind off the tip. You do need to lock it in then find your lock slot.
Pretty simple stuff. Not grinding the tip can wedge in the screw and cause issues or outright snap them.
Excellent! But, it seems like your first two sentences are not that simple. How do you lock it (which rotation direction?) and find the lock slot? Please explain.
Um you use a right handed screw to lock it down in the plastic cover bit. Then your timing of the "limiter" needs to be in line or lined up to pull it out. Turn it counter clockwise to line up the tab with the slot. It has a simple flat blade on one side to stop the thing from turing a full rotation around. Look up a limiter pic already removed or a new replacement one. Pic is worth a thousand words. I'm not very good at teaching just doing. Very simple process without the factory tool or any need for removing the carb on most models. Trim the limiter tab off and snap it back in if you haven't broke it. They beak if you mess with them when the plastic is cold so warm it up first. Single most overlooked step in removing them is temperature. I toss them most times on older tools with easy to reach screws. If you replace them with new ones slice the tops off and trim the stop tabs.
A bench grinder grinds those tabs off in 2 seconds and does a neat job. Steve
My bench grinder is too big, too awkward, and too powerful for a CS-4910 chain saw carb's plastic limiter tabs and would be virtually impossible to use in order to do a neat job as you say. The carb's plastic limiters are even surrounded by a metal shelter to protect them. Lots of carbs are these days.
Grind them after you pull them out with a drywall screw, I leave them attached to the screw when grinding. Steve
After pulling the limiter I cut the tabs off with a sharp knife.
That works also. The idea is to remove the restriction to the setscrew rotation.
@mountainlake , suggestions on opening the muffler? My ear sucks...can I tune with a tach? Thoughts and suggestions?
Multiple videos on YT showing exactly how to open that muffler. Looks super easy - take off the deflector and screen, pull out and toss the baffle/tube piece under the screen, make an opening in the front of the deflector and reinstall it, with or without the screen. Then retune.
Thanks. I've seen a few of those since I posted. Can I do the re-tune with a tach?
You can use a tach, but I don't have one and just go by sound. With a little practice, you should be able to tell when its 4-stroking vs 2-stroking. Open the high screw a few turns and it should definitely be 4-stroking. Listen to some tuning videos.
Need to tune the 4910 in the wood. Set the H screw somewhere between max rpm and occasionally 4 stroking while cutting
PUCKPLAYER_33
New Member
I muffler modded my new CS-4910 before it even saw wood for the first time. Two screws to remove the deflector and spark arrestor screen and pulled the baffle tube out of the muffler. I also removed the stock exhaust deflector and replaced it with the one from a Shindaiwa 400 (Echo/Shindaiwa part # A313001460). The new deflector is much less restrictive and deflects the exhaust at a better angle toward the bar instead of straight out above the clutch cover through the little 'knock outs'. I did open up the very front 'gill' on the new deflector to make it even less restrictive. This part was $3.60 and it required less modifying than the OEM one. Obviously, with more air flow through the saw, I had to re-tune it and ended up turning the 'H' jet out about 1/4 turn (not sure exactly how far as I tuned it in wood), but I would guess it was about 1/4 turn.
Even with the saw being brand new and not broken in, you could feel the throttle response difference between stock and modded. This is a smaller firewood saw, so I am not worried so much about speed. I wanted to get a little boost in performance and make the saw run a little cooler for longevity knowing these newer Echo saws are pretty choked up and lean from the factory to meet emissions requirements. I have about a tank of fuel through mine and this 4910 SMOKES my Stihl MS250 w/ 16" bar (yes, I realize there is a 5cc difference) and is lighter to boot! I have always been a Stihl guy, but read too many good things about the 4910/501P to not try one out. A 50cc saw with magnesium case and a more 'pro' build quality for $150 less than a Stihl MS271 strato plastic clamshell saw AND it is 2 pounds lighter?! I paid $349 for my 18" CS-4910 vs. $479/499 for the Stihl MS271 at a local dealer. With the build quality of these saws, I have no doubt I will get YEARS of service out of this saw as we only burn about 2 cords of firewood each winter. I will keep the MS250 as a spare and still have my trusty Stihl 039 for felling and bucking bigger stuff, but this 4910 will be the saw I will probably reach for the most.
Even with the saw being brand new and not broken in, you could feel the throttle response difference between stock and modded. This is a smaller firewood saw, so I am not worried so much about speed. I wanted to get a little boost in performance and make the saw run a little cooler for longevity knowing these newer Echo saws are pretty choked up and lean from the factory to meet emissions requirements. I have about a tank of fuel through mine and this 4910 SMOKES my Stihl MS250 w/ 16" bar (yes, I realize there is a 5cc difference) and is lighter to boot! I have always been a Stihl guy, but read too many good things about the 4910/501P to not try one out. A 50cc saw with magnesium case and a more 'pro' build quality for $150 less than a Stihl MS271 strato plastic clamshell saw AND it is 2 pounds lighter?! I paid $349 for my 18" CS-4910 vs. $479/499 for the Stihl MS271 at a local dealer. With the build quality of these saws, I have no doubt I will get YEARS of service out of this saw as we only burn about 2 cords of firewood each winter. I will keep the MS250 as a spare and still have my trusty Stihl 039 for felling and bucking bigger stuff, but this 4910 will be the saw I will probably reach for the most.
