New guy needs a chain.

[biggerstaff94]

What's your process for starting it?
Can you keep it running by feathering the throttle?
Have you checked the fuel line, they're particularly long on those & prone to failing.
The oiler is crankcase pressure driven & has a little one way duckbill valve between the crankcase & oil tank. If that fails you may not be getting enough impulse to properly draw fuel up that long line. A pressure test wouldn't necessarily pick that up either unless you had the oil tank empty & the cap off

Choke it and itll kick over in 3 or 4 pulls without throttle. Then take the choke off and it’ll start then immediately make it to around 8-10000rpm before it dies. That’s with me not touching the throttle. If i hold the throttle open it’ll run longer but it still dies. The rpm won’t drop until it dies though.

 

[Okie]

You say it starts at WOT and then when you pull the throttle trigger the butterfly closes completely and it dies??

You may know this about your Poulan but just a hint anyway:
Also keep in mind that since you found it in the trash a Bubba may have installed some wrong linkages or parts associated with the throttle or choke.

The choke when pulled to on also sets a throttle high idle for cold or hot start and when the throttle is triggered the choke's high idle throttle setting is released to normal idle and usually on a Poulan the choke automatically goes to off, but on some saws the choke has to be manually pushed to completely off MANUALLY and the saw stays at the faster idle until the trigger is operated to unlatch/release the higher idle. Normal operating idle is set with the idle adjust screw, BUT the choke high idle is fixed on some and adjustable on a few saws. You can observe all of this without the saw running by watching the THROTTLE LINKAGE as the choke knob is operated and then the throttle trigger pulled to see the release. If we had the EXACT model of your Poulan we can give you more precise/detailed info about the choke/throttle linkages Also on some Poulans to start the saw at fast idle W/O a choke, you pull the choke to full on then push the choke knob back in to off and this leaves the throttle at a fast setting until the trigger is pulled to release the fast throttle setting. .

Also get yourself one or two of these 556418 Oregon chain/bar gauges @ about $5 from flea bay.
They are fast for checking chain pitch/gauge, file sizes, bar groove width. It's plastic but not easily broken and fast to ID chains, BUT the 3/8 Low Pro (LP) also called Picco will check the same pitch as a regular 3/8 chain on a gauge. The difference is in the drive link shape/size. If not really familiar with LP and 3/8 keep a piece of both close to the gauge and you can see the difference in the drive links until you get familiar with seeing them.

Here is a link to view the Oregon gauge on flea bay
:https://www.ebay.com/itm/384186058345?hash=item5973460669:g:H0IAAOSwLtZgrTv3

 

[biggerstaff94]

You say it starts at WOT and then when you pull the throttle trigger the butterfly closes completely and it dies??

You may know this about your Poulan but just a hint anyway:
Also keep in mind that since you found it in the trash a Bubba may have installed some wrong linkages or parts associated with the throttle or choke.

The choke when pulled to on also sets a throttle high idle for cold or hot start and when the throttle is triggered the choke's high idle throttle setting is released to normal idle and usually on a Poulan the choke automatically goes to off, but on some saws the choke has to be manually pushed to completely off MANUALLY and the saw stays at the faster idle until the trigger is operated to unlatch/release the higher idle. Normal operating idle is set with the idle adjust screw, BUT the choke high idle is fixed on some and adjustable on a few saws. You can observe all of this without the saw running by watching the THROTTLE LINKAGE as the choke knob is operated and then the throttle trigger pulled to see the release. If we had the EXACT model of your Poulan we can give you more precise/detailed info about the choke/throttle linkages Also on some Poulans to start the saw at fast idle W/O a choke, you pull the choke to full on then push the choke knob back in to off and this leaves the throttle at a fast setting until the trigger is pulled to release the fast throttle setting. .

Also get yourself one or two of these 556418 Oregon chain/bar gauges @ about $5 from flea bay.
They are fast for checking chain pitch/gauge, file sizes, bar groove width. It's plastic but not easily broken and fast to ID chains, BUT the 3/8 Low Pro (LP) also called Picco will check the same pitch as a regular 3/8 chain on a gauge. The difference is in the drive link shape/size. If not really familiar with LP and 3/8 keep a piece of both close to the gauge and you can see the difference in the drive links until you get familiar with seeing them.

Here is a link to view the Oregon gauge on flea bay
:https://www.ebay.com/itm/384186058345?hash=item5973460669:g:H0IAAOSwLtZgrTv3

Its a Poulan 2000 woodsman. The choke is built into the carb cover so no linkage there. Theres isnt a throttle lock or high idle to hold it open when its been choked. Also the throttle linkage is as simple as it gets on this saw.

When i start it, i pull, it fires, then shoots up in rpm like it thinks its supposed to idle there, then dies due to lack of air because the butterfly in the carb is closed.

 

[Okie]

One other thing about IDing bars:

Sometimes with the bar off the saw if you will look very close towards the tail of the bar (bar nut end) you will see some small numbers/letters STAMPED into the bar. Sometimes you will have to take gas or lacquer thinner and clean off the tree sap to see the numbers.
The numbers can be either the part number of the manu for example Poulan or Craftsman part number or the Oregon part number for example. Take that number and go to the computer and search and if it pops you can then get all the bar's specs. Really handy for IDing the pitch of a new to you roller tip bar or replacing a bar.

Be very careful and use thick leather gloves when cleaning a bar or even handling. I've seen razor edges on especially worn bars that don't cut meat deep but takes long time to heal.

 

[Okie]

So it's a momentary surge to high throttle as soon as it fires without touching the choke or throttle then almost immediately dies?
I have not looked at the IPL for that Poulan, some have a Plastic spacer behind the carb that get lost/cracked or installed wrong.
Kinda indicates carb or air intake issues maybe.

 

[J D]

I'd be checking the fuel lines, filter etc. If something isn't right these saws can struggle to pull the fuel up. What Okie is saying is correct for the newer poulans, but as you already know these are about as simple as it gets. The user manual actually specifies to drop start them, which I would've previously never have recommended but it's the only practical way I have found to start mine... Choke on, hold throttle on, drop start till she kicks, choke off, hold throttle on, drop start till she runs. More often than not mine will run for a second or 2 then die & I have to start with the choke again. On mine this is because it's struggling to draw the fuel up due to a weak impulse as the pto side bearing & seal need replacing

 

[Okie]

After reading your #21 post:

AND I see you have had the little feller all apart and done away with the base gasket, etc.

Have you done a pressure/Vac test of the crankcase?

 

[biggerstaff94]

After reading your #21 post:

AND I see you have had the little feller all apart and done away with the base gasket, etc.

Have you done a pressure/Vac test of the crankcase?

I pressure tested it. It held pressure but only for about 45 seconds. I dont have a vaccuum pump.

So it's a momentary surge to high throttle as soon as it fires without touching the choke or throttle then almost immediately dies?

Yes, im assuming it runs out of oxygen and dies. Fuel doesnt seem to be a problem as the plug is wet after it dies.

 

[ray benson]

I think all of the Mac 100 series came with 3/8LP as default. But yours could have been changed at some point in time. Try taking the clutch cover / flapperdoodle chain brake combo off and flipping it over so you can see the underside. Take a sharpie and mark a tooth on the sprocket. Then you can rotate the clutch and count teeth. 6 is 3/8LP, 8 is 1/4. If you have the McCloverleaf sprocket, same routine, just count the slots.

Early mini-macs had 1/4" chain - 8 tooth sprocket
Later models had 3/8" low profile chain - 6 tooth sprocket.

 

[Okie]

45 seconds at 5-7 psi is not long enough if it's going completely to zero. Sometimes they will get to about 3 dropping slow and hold.
When you apply pressure use soap water mix and look for bubbles.
If you see it going slow but falling and not seeing the bubbles, try rotating the crank and watching the seals and also where the jug is bolted to the block. You might leave the flywheel and clutch on at first to see if it's leaking where you eliminated the base gasket.
A block leak really upsets the idle more so than the High speed.
I've replaced the seals on them little ones with the crank in place. Most generally a bad crank seal will be on the clutch side due to the chain tension load. A hint that this seal is going bad is the saw will almost run ok without a chain installed and idleing will change as the chain tension is applied and sometimes fail the tilt test.

sometimes you can get by W/O a Vacuum pump. Just use a blood pressure bulb.

If you are a piddler of things and chainsaws you need to eventually get a Mityvac that does both vac and pressure. Get the better metal type that can be kitted. I always use a white inline fuel filter when doing vac. The fuel filter keeps the pump from sucking in itty bitty pieces under the flapper check valves. I've taken them apart and gently used a Q-tip and clean under the check valves on a mityvac and not have to install the kit.
Brake fluid getting inside the pump is not a good thing when bleeding brakes.

 

[Husky77]

Thanks! Its 3/8.

I thought it took more to pull a 3/8 than .325? I like to learn things if you dont mind explaining.

Your right it does.

 

[biggerstaff94]

45 seconds at 5-7 psi is not long enough if it's going completely to zero. Sometimes they will get to about 3 dropping slow and hold.
When you apply pressure use soap water mix and look for bubbles.
If you see it going slow but falling and not seeing the bubbles, try rotating the crank and watching the seals and also where the jug is bolted to the block. You might leave the flywheel and clutch on at first to see if it's leaking where you eliminated the base gasket.
A block leak really upsets the idle more so than the High speed.
I've replaced the seals on them little ones with the crank in place. Most generally a bad crank seal will be on the clutch side due to the chain tension load. A hint that this seal is going bad is the saw will almost run ok without a chain installed and idleing will change as the chain tension is applied and sometimes fail the tilt test.

sometimes you can get by W/O a Vacuum pump. Just use a blood pressure bulb.

If you are a piddler of things and chainsaws you need to eventually get a Mityvac that does both vac and pressure. Get the better metal type that can be kitted. I always use a white inline fuel filter when doing vac. The fuel filter keeps the pump from sucking in itty bitty pieces under the flapper check valves. I've taken them apart and gently used a Q-tip and clean under the check valves on a mityvac and not have to install the kit.
Brake fluid getting inside the pump is not a good thing when bleeding brakes.

Well hell, it sinks to about 1 or 2 psi from 10 in about 45 seconds. I figured that was good enough. Ill have to find the leak. What is a good amount of time for it to hold pressure? Or should it be indefinitely? This is the first saw ive pulled the cylinder off of, figured a trash saw was the perfect candidate for learning. Also will do on picking up a mityvac, thanks for the fuel filter tip.

 

[biggerstaff94]

Your right it does.

I thought so, i swapped my husqy 55 from .325 to 3/8 so i can run a 20” light Sugi bar on it. It pulls like mad with skip tooth full chisel but Ive never tried it with full house.

 

[J D]

Well hell, it sinks to about 1 or 2 psi from 10 in about 45 seconds. I figured that was good enough. Ill have to find the leak. What is a good amount of time for it to hold pressure? Or should it be indefinitely? This is the first saw ive pulled the cylinder off of, figured a trash saw was the perfect candidate for learning. Also will do on picking up a mityvac, thanks for the fuel filter tip.

Thread 'Pressure and Vacuum Testing Basics' https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/pressure-and-vacuum-testing-basics.361582/

 

[J D]

Well hell, it sinks to about 1 or 2 psi from 10 in about 45 seconds. I figured that was good enough. Ill have to find the leak. What is a good amount of time for it to hold pressure? Or should it be indefinitely? This is the first saw ive pulled the cylinder off of, figured a trash saw was the perfect candidate for learning. Also will do on picking up a mityvac, thanks for the fuel filter tip.

Bare in mind that the passage from the crankcase to the oil tank may bleed off pressure (vac should be ok if the duckbill valve is working)
Seals for the PTO side are NLA but you may still find NOS. Generic replacements are readily available but most won't have the spring around the inner sealing lip

 

[ray benson]

Thanks! Its 3/8.

I thought it took more to pull a 3/8 than .325? I like to learn things if you dont mind explaining.

Picture shows the size comparison.

 

[biggerstaff94]

Thread 'Pressure and Vacuum Testing Basics' https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/pressure-and-vacuum-testing-basics.361582/

Dang this place has it all!

Bare in mind that the passage from the crankcase to the oil tank may bleed off pressure (vac should be ok if the duckbill valve is working)
Seals for the PTO side are NLA but you may still find NOS. Generic replacements are readily available but most won't have the spring around the inner sealing lip

hopefully ebay has them.