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What ya got in mind "Mkarlson"? That 250 seems a bit small for water and a bit big for burn chamber but I'm not about to say that my boiler is correct. I think I'm oversize for my application. I load 3 times a day wether it's 50 or 10 degrees. I'm certain that I have MANY innefficient setups in mine but I love to tinker so workin out the bugs for a few years is kinda fun for me. I'd love to hear your ideas. I've worked out a different design in my head for version 2.
I'm not sure if my new design will be better but definitely easier and better looking!

:givebeer:
 
Well this particular tank I was thinking burn chamber originally but your right does seem too big. Guess I could cut it down some. If mated together like yours it might work depending on the size of the water jacket tank.

I'm sure I've seen someone mention it, but what do you think bigger jacket to hold heat or what I'm asking when does the heating of stored water become inefficient?
 
How much is to much I really don't know. I think that I have too large of a water jacket and heating more water than needed but I have no facts to back up this assumption. I have a couple buddies that own manufactured boilers and they go through less wood than me and we've been speculating as to why. The water capacity factor is one of the things that we all seem to consider to be a good possibility. Mine holds alot more water than theirs. I run my water at 130 degrees with a preset 5 degree aquastat and can't go 12 hours when it gets below 30 degrees outside. My friends both only load twice a day and only once when it's 45+ degrees outside. I can't give you firebox dimensions for theirs but mine is 24" diameter approx 40" long. Theirs appear to be larger but I've never sat down and figured square inches out to compare.

After dreaming about your 250 tank for a burn chamber I've concluded that It might be cool. Larger wood capacity can't be a bad thing can it?
Do yourself a favor though and lay your water tank down and put the burn in the end. Putting it in the side as I did was a royal pain.
If I can get my latest sketch scanned I'll post it and it may give you some ideas.
One other thing. If you have access to a GOOD wire welder that will be a plus. I stick welded mine and believe me when I say, I burned ALOT of rod. I didn't mind it because I used to weld for a living but stick is much slower and wire welding should decrease the amount of leaks during your first test fill.
 
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There we go put a 250 inside a 500 and would be perfect. Well a 250 gallon tank would hold alot of wood.

So my next question would be....is there a downside to having a firebox thats too big? Would a small load of wood burn just as good producing the same heat in a oversized firebox that it would in a smaller firebox? I would think potential heat output from a chunk of wood would be the same anywhere it is burned. So long as the heat is transfered to the water tank.
 
I'll try to get a few drawings posted tomarrow afternoon that might give you a few ideas.
Gotta remember the ash box has to fit in the water tank as well.
 
I have a few hand drawn sketches of my new design that show more detail but My access to a scanner wasn't available so here are a couple drawings I did on the computer.
ry%3D480

ry%3D480


My idea is to cut off the fronts and weld a 1/4" or thicker flat face on them. Then you could go to a square door and attaching siding etc would be way easier than the round thing that I did originally.

You also could drop the ash and burn down in the water tank so the ash box protruded through the bottom to allow more water at the top where more heat is. It would require a big notch in the water tank and a little more welding but it may be an improvement. Somebody with some knowledge of thermodynamics would be helpful in designing it.
 
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Thats is what I was picturing from your description. The hardest part of the assembly would be the flue pipe.

Got a picture of your grate in the original or maybe improved version?
 
There is no grate. I simply torched holes in the bottom of the burn for ash to fall through.

Yes the flu is a ROYAL PAIN!!! You gotta crawl in and weld where ya can't see..
Measuring it all out for your holes prior to assembly is quite difficult as well.
 
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Trouble ahead?

Now that is what I would call Yankee Ingenuity!!:clap: I thankfully don"t have much need for heat in Texas I would like to point out one small item that might cause a problem later on. I tthink I see copper/brass valves and galvanized fittings together? If this is correct there is an increased possibility of electrolysis corroding this connection and having a leak prematurely. They make fittings with rubber isolation . Also maybe install a "sacrificial anode" similar to a water heater After putting that much work into this I hope You don't take this wrong,just trying to help.. :cheers: :cheers: Hope You have many years of service :clap:
 
There is no grate. I simply torched holes in the bottom of the burn for ash to fall through.

Yes the flu is a ROYAL PAIN!!! You gotta crawl in and weld where ya can't see..
Measuring it all out for your holes prior to assembly is quite difficult as well.

I was over thinking, trying to figure out a shake type grate. Didn't even think of blowing holes in the bottom.:monkey:
 
Now that is what I would call Yankee Ingenuity!!:clap: I thankfully don"t have much need for heat in Texas I would like to point out one small item that might cause a problem later on. I tthink I see copper/brass valves and galvanized fittings together? If this is correct there is an increased possibility of electrolysis corroding this connection and having a leak prematurely. They make fittings with rubber isolation . Also maybe install a "sacrificial anode" similar to a water heater After putting that much work into this I hope You don't take this wrong,just trying to help.. :cheers: :cheers: Hope You have many years of service :clap:
I had thought of the anode before but never heard anyone ever mention it. Wondering if manufactured boilers have them in them? I lived in small city most my life with city water. Never had an issue with a sacrificial anode till this well with its really hard water issues.
 
Anode

All commercial water heaters have them, As well as all home owner type. I really don't know that much about OWB's but any time dissimilar metals are connected, steel/brass/aluminum there is the possibility of electrolysis and the premaure failure of that connection:( :( Most outboard motors have anodes on them as they are primarily aluminum. I don,t know if this type could be placed in the water jacket to sacrifice it self :dizzy: : Like I said earlier I am only trying to help and I surley don't know every thing.Good luck and stay warm:clap: :clap: P.S. It was in low 70,s here today:givebeer: :givebeer:
 

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