New to wood burning

[zogger]

Chainsaw maintenance and chain sharpening is one thing I know nothing about so that will a learning experience for me. Hopefully this axe you mentioned works......usually shovels and stuff never fit my hand!

Around me the daily rate to rent a splitter is $150/8 hours. For a good splitter I'm figuring $2500-$3000 bucks. At that rate it would take me 20 days of use to pay for the splitter. Obviously that doesn't include maintenance and repairs though.

--there's a ton of splitter threads here. You could most likely get by with a cheaper one, only doing 10-15 cords a year or even double that. Some guys here use those smaller electric ones that are real cheap.

I have personally only ever used one powered splitter, a large one my boss made that will split up to a 36" long log and has a lift table that will lift..not sure, I know I have had at least 400 lbs of log on there before. I liked it when I was having to split nasty sweetgum, it helped, plus, cutting to only 16 inches, I could throw two logs on the thing at the same time.

BUT..that's been broken for awhile, I do 95% of my wood with a fiskars supersplitter now, they don't make that model any more, but they have a short handle and a longer handle similar version now, the x25 and x27. Tons of threads here on those as well.

Hang around, especially go over to the chainsaw forum part. See if you can find some close by members for some sawing tips and training, and/or attend your closest "get together" or GTG, there's always a bunch going on all over the country.

It's a learning curve but gets easier with practice and hands-on, like anything else.

 

[owbguy]

Around me the daily rate to rent a splitter is $150/8 hours. For a good splitter I'm figuring $2500-$3000 bucks. At that rate it would take me 20 days of use to pay for the splitter. Obviously that doesn't include maintenance and repairs though.

if you rent one, then speed is an issue since you will likely be trying to bang out your splitting in a single day of rental; if you own it then speed is less of an issue. owning is a luxury but imho it is worth it. being able to split wood for an hour or two here and there is a blessing. i can split a cord in an hour by myself. that means i can spend time with my family then take an hour break and split a cord of wood, rather than take an hour break from splitting wood to spend time with the family. or, the family can help me split and we can get twice the production.

with splitters you will find log length to be one of the biggest issues. many, if not most, splitters have 24" maximum capacity. for fireplace wood that is a non-issue. for owb wood that can be an issue. what log length will you burn? i like to burn 28"-30" logs.

 

[owbguy]

splitters

here's a TW knock-off w/o log lift
log splitter, commercail, trade

here's a TW-6, conveyor and wrapper for a few bucks more....
tree service equipment

 

[4seasons]

I am in the process of looking at trailers. I think I have decided on a Griffin 7x12 dump. My truck is more than set too. 01 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins. I also have access to a tractor with a front end loader to load logs.

As for a saw I'm probably going to buy a ms310 from a guy at work who's upgrading to a bigger saw. That should work for me shouldn't it?

I don't mind investing some money in a saw and splitter if it's gonna last me many years. I don't mind the exercise either. I'm young (27) and would rather spend a day splitting wood than a few hours in the gym. I just feel like I accomplished something.

I've been scouring craiglist for logs lately and have found several promising ads, one is really close to me. I'll post more about my CL finds down below.



While I don't have any neighbors, I will definitely not be that guy burning everything under the sun in the boiler. Wood only for this old boy. I also won't be burning mine in the summer as I have an electric water heater on a seperate breaker so I don't have to burn just for hot water.



Yeah I'm not sure yet if I can just cut the logs or if they will need to be split. Need to get measurements on the fire box. I don't have access to a woodlot so I'll just be buying logs for the forseeable future.

Sounds like you have the truck and trailer figured out but with a setup like that you are going to want to find a place to cut your own wood. I got lucky a few years back and a neighbor sold all the lumber off their place. When the loggers left and all the tops were laying I volunteered to help with cleanup. Something like that is a good place to learn as all the trees are down and you don't have to learn how to fell right from the start.
If you have a buddy willing to cut you a deal on a used MS310 jump on it. Stihl used to call that a landowners saw. It is a decent mid-range saw. For someone cutting 20 cords a year it will get the job done. Be careful about asking about it over on the chainsaw threads though. It is a little light on power and heavy on weight and that you really need a MS361, or a MS260 and a MS660 so you can have the best of both worlds. Just learn how to sharpen your own chain (with a file, you don't need a grinder for what you are doing) and never take up a buddy on his offer to run a professional grade saw and you will be happy with that 310. The same holds true for splitters. You don't have to have a splitter as you can split with a maul but having a splitter will make things nicer for you getting started. Again you don't have to have the best splitter out there to split 20 cords a year. Use a couple of different types of splitters before you buy to find out what you like. You don't want to buy a vertical splitter only to find out that you hate bending down to put wood in and pick up the splits or get a horizontal only and discover later that 1/2 the wood you are splitting is too big to pick up onto the beam. Lots of guys here love their Super Splitters but you won't find one for the $1000-1500 that a good homeowner grade hydraulic can be had for. You don't have to split all your wood, full rounds will burn but they take a lot longer to dry. That said you probably want to split everything for this year as you are fighting drying times to get ahead. Some types of wood will dry much faster than others for example ash would be great for you right now because cut and split now and it will be dry by winter. Oak on the other hand put aside for next years supply because it wont be dry for this winter.
Also don't listen to anyone that tells you green wood will be fine in a OWB. Even if you can get it to burn you lose lots of energy boiling off the extra water in the wood and that in turn means you burn more for less usable heat. It also makes lots of creosote. Even if you don't have the chimney fire concern like someone with a chimney in their house you will have to clean out the mess.

 

[STLfirewood]

If that is your splitter budget don't mess with a hydraulic unit. Get a Super Splitter and be done. The MS 310 would work for you but the price is kind of high. Those saws are heavy for their power. They will last a long time. The guy that cuts wood for me has cut over 300 cords with a MS290 and it still runs great. I don't know any thing about taylor stoves. I think the main difference between stoves is how much wood they burn and their burn times when loaded. They all heat water and heat your house. Get the Super Splitter you'll be glad you did.

Scott

 

[owbguy]

STLfirewood makes a good point that corresponds with what I was discussing in the post above. You can split a lot of firewood with a Super Splitter and its a quality piece of equipment. Log length is a factor. 24" is the maximum. If you are willing to live with that maximum length, then the Super Splitter is a super option you should consider.

Another issue to consider is getting the logs onto the beam. What will you be splitting? Mostly large diameter, heavy rounds, or mostly smaller diameter, lighter rounds. If you will be getting tree service wood you will likely be getting a lot of big ugglies and a mechanical splitter like a Super Splitter might not be your best option. On the other hand, if you will be splitting mostly medium and small stuff then you can fly through it with the mechanical splitter. In general, hydraulic units are typically slower but more powerful with log lifts as an option, and mechanical splitters are typically faster but less powerful and log lifts are not an option. Each style serves a purpose. You just need to decide which will serve you better.

 

[greendohn]

The well seasoned wood burning in an OWB is your friend. Having said that, I will say you don't need to sweat it if your wood isn't well seasoned this coming winter, your 1st year. I say that because the older, non gasification OWB's are GREEDY HUNGRY PIGS!! Living away from close neighbors the smoke won't be a problem. The creosote being a problem in older OWB's is a myth, unless you have a draft which is under the grates, below the fire, like you would find in a "Hardy" stove. It's an air tight unit which cycles with fan forced draft to keep you at temp. Even seasoned wood produces "some" creosote in my OWB. It's not a problem, nothing wrong with my OWB. The forced draft "fires the wood", the stove reaches temp, the forced draft shuts down and the wood goes into a "smolder" which, even with seasoned wood will produce "some" creosote. Creosote will burn off next time the stove "cycles".
When the dog daze of winter come down on you and your stove is burning like Dante's Inferno, feed that beast your best hard woods, the oak, the hickory, seasoned or not. You'll get longer burn times.
Cut and process your wood to the size-length you can handle safely. Keep cuttin' and gathering to stay well ahead of the curve and you can worry about the seasoned wood in the future if you can't get it worked out before this coming winter.

 

[7sleeper]

I agree with most posts above. One thing I would consider, I know I will get a lot of bad rep now, is I also use the file for most of my sharpening. But if you have enemy contact (stones, nails, etc.) filing out the dings on a 72(or more) link chain can be a pain! I bought an el cheapo electric grinder for exactly this job. It works great! Not fast, but much faster than a hand file. Anybody denying the fact that it is impossible to avoid all contact has simply no experience. I grind all the cutters straight and do one more pass with the hand file. Easy sharpening.
You are young and strong enough to handle a "underpowered and overweight"(quote Sawtroll) saw. So don't worry a second. It will do everything you ask of it. And when the time comes that you straight gas it, don't worry a second, get a 390 piston and cylinder and presto you now have a even stronger saw than before for cheap money!

Good luck,

7

 

[waldershrek]

if you rent one, then speed is an issue since you will likely be trying to bang out your splitting in a single day of rental; if you own it then speed is less of an issue. owning is a luxury but imho it is worth it. being able to split wood for an hour or two here and there is a blessing. i can split a cord in an hour by myself. that means i can spend time with my family then take an hour break and split a cord of wood, rather than take an hour break from splitting wood to spend time with the family. or, the family can help me split and we can get twice the production.

with splitters you will find log length to be one of the biggest issues. many, if not most, splitters have 24" maximum capacity. for fireplace wood that is a non-issue. for owb wood that can be an issue. what log length will you burn? i like to burn 28"-30" logs.

Exactly. Places around it's $150/ 8 hrs on the meter. So I wouldn't be able to work on wood when I got a chance to, I'd be in a hurry to get it done in one day. As far as length goes I'm not sure yet what the longest length the stove can handle. I originally figured on 18" but I might be able to go a little bigger once I actually measure the fire box.

You don't have to have a splitter as you can split with a maul but having a splitter will make things nicer for you getting started. Again you don't have to have the best splitter out there to split 20 cords a year. Use a couple of different types of splitters before you buy to find out what you like. You don't want to buy a vertical splitter only to find out that you hate bending down to put wood in and pick up the splits or get a horizontal only and discover later that 1/2 the wood you are splitting is too big to pick up onto the beam. Lots of guys here love their Super Splitters but you won't find one for the $1000-1500 that a good homeowner grade hydraulic can be had for. You don't have to split all your wood, full rounds will burn but they take a lot longer to dry. That said you probably want to split everything for this year as you are fighting drying times to get ahead. Some types of wood will dry much faster than others for example ash would be great for you right now because cut and split now and it will be dry by winter. Oak on the other hand put aside for next years supply because it wont be dry for this winter.

I was looking at splitters today and trying to decide what would be better. Sitting behind the computer I'd say a horizontal would be better. At least that way I can get a log lift to help out with lifting. With vertical you have to manually handle every piece of wood plus move it again once it's split so you can stack it. At least with horizontal it falls off the end and you can keep splitting.

It's not that I want the BEST splitter per se, but I'd rather pay now for one that's gonna last me for the forseeable future than keep having to buy one every few years. I'm looking for the best compromise of quality, price and a dealer close to me (I know aren't we all). I don't think I'll be burning full rounds just for the drying factor. It will probably be split in at least half.

With a Taylor OWB and the New York Climate I'm not surprised the last owner didn't leave you any wood. He probably moved after burning the last of his furniture!

You are going to burn lots and lots of wood for sure. Probably 25 tons or more per winter.

Can you elaborate on this a little more? Not getting pissy, just looking for honest information/problems with the Taylors. I've already been told by one person they are junk.

If that is your splitter budget don't mess with a hydraulic unit. Get a Super Splitter and be done. The MS 310 would work for you but the price is kind of high. Those saws are heavy for their power. They will last a long time. The guy that cuts wood for me has cut over 300 cords with a MS290 and it still runs great. I don't know any thing about taylor stoves. I think the main difference between stoves is how much wood they burn and their burn times when loaded. They all heat water and heat your house. Get the Super Splitter you'll be glad you did.

Never heard of them. Man they are fast! Still about 2500 bucks though with everything.

Another issue to consider is getting the logs onto the beam. What will you be splitting? Mostly large diameter, heavy rounds, or mostly smaller diameter, lighter rounds. If you will be getting tree service wood you will likely be getting a lot of big ugglies and a mechanical splitter like a Super Splitter might not be your best option. On the other hand, if you will be splitting mostly medium and small stuff then you can fly through it with the mechanical splitter. In general, hydraulic units are typically slower but more powerful with log lifts as an option, and mechanical splitters are typically faster but less powerful and log lifts are not an option. Each style serves a purpose. You just need to decide which will serve you better.

Well if I buy logs they will be 12"-18" diameter. If I start scrounging I'll be stuck with whatever I get. Decisions decisions......I didn't know splitting wood was this complicated! :bang:

 

[upsnake]

If you have the funding, by all means get whatever splitting you want, but as a couple others have said a "cheaper" splitter should work just fine for you as well.

When I was first getting all my stuff, I was doing the same thing, If I go with this splitter I mine as well just spent a bit more and go to that one, and so on.

I ended up getting a speeco 22ton (i got a speeco branded rather than husky but same thing).

It works fine for what I need, I split around ten cord a year.

 

[4seasons]

I was looking at splitters today and trying to decide what would be better. Sitting behind the computer I'd say a horizontal would be better. At least that way I can get a log lift to help out with lifting. With vertical you have to manually handle every piece of wood plus move it again once it's split so you can stack it. At least with horizontal it falls off the end and you can keep splitting.

It's not that I want the BEST splitter per se, but I'd rather pay now for one that's gonna last me for the forseeable future than keep having to buy one every few years. I'm looking for the best compromise of quality, price and a dealer close to me (I know aren't we all). I don't think I'll be burning full rounds just for the drying factor. It will probably be split in at least half.


Well if I buy logs they will be 12"-18" diameter. If I start scrounging I'll be stuck with whatever I get. Decisions decisions......I didn't know splitting wood was this complicated! :bang:

I agree with you on the horizontal being the way to go. Anytime I have used a vertical splitter my back is killing me in just a few minutes, but some guys here swear by them so I think it is a good idea to test drive one first and see what works for you. Also if you are planning on splitting in the 12-18 inch range there won't be much you can't pick up and put on the beam so vertical wouldn't be much use anyway. Even if you do scrounge some bigger you can always noodle them down to a size you can pick up. It really isn't complicated but if you have been doing it for a while you learn things that make it easier and reading someones 20+ years of splitting experience in a thread can be a little overwhelming if you haven't done it before. As long as you aren't getting hurt you aren't doing it wrong, but there might be a better, easier way to do it. A little advice here and there and lots of practice and it will seem easier again.

You also don't need the best splitter out there. While there are some that are not well made (Troy-Built, anything at Harbor Freight come to mind) most splitters will serve your purposes for many years if properly maintained. The biggest difference in price is speed and tonnage. Some options will drive the price up (like log lift) but lots of 15+ ton splitters will do what you need them to. First thing to do is measure that firebox. Cut your wood 2-4 inches shorter than the depth of the firebox, it gives you room load. Unless that length is longer than you want to handle sticks of wood, then use that as a starting point for your splitter. No reason to look at 18" splitters if you want to cut 24" wood.

 

[owbguy]

Well if I buy logs they will be 12"-18" diameter.

If you are going to be splitting mostly little stuff like that, then seriously consider buying a mechanical splitter. You will be a lot happier. I've been splitting wood for more than 30 years, and heating with wood almost exclusively for 9 seasons. If I did not have lots of large diameter wood to split, and the need for log length exceeding 24", I'd own a Super Splitter. No question about it.

 

[waldershrek]

If that is your splitter budget don't mess with a hydraulic unit. Get a Super Splitter and be done. The MS 310 would work for you but the price is kind of high. Those saws are heavy for their power. They will last a long time. The guy that cuts wood for me has cut over 300 cords with a MS290 and it still runs great. I don't know any thing about taylor stoves. I think the main difference between stoves is how much wood they burn and their burn times when loaded. They all heat water and heat your house. Get the Super Splitter you'll be glad you did.

Scott

Mechanical as opposed to hydraulic? What are some good ones besides the Supersplit? I was looking at the Ryobi electric one sold through the home depot. Seemed to have good review but it looked tiny and I am hesitant for some reason.

 

[zogger]

Mechanical as opposed to hydraulic? What are some good ones besides the Supersplit? I was looking at the Ryobi electric one sold through the home depot. Seemed to have good review but it looked tiny and I am hesitant for some reason.

Bro Genesis has a video review of his electric splitter. He will probably see this and drop the link.

 

[owbguy]

The Super Splitter and the DR Rapid Fire are the ones I would consider. The electric splitter you mention is a different design, and not in the same ballpark for speed/power combination. It would be considerably less money though.

Go to a couple of stores and see what is offered near you. Study the design, stand by them and see how they would work for you. Also, check out youtube. There are many videos showing splitters in operation. Do a bit of research so you avoid buying something that will not hold up or will be a thorn in your side. After you've done all that, buy a Super Splitter... :hmm3grin2orange: I kid, I kid.

For what you mentioned, a mechanical splitter sounds like a great option. Check these out:
DR® Power Equipment - DR RapidFire Log Splitter
Log Splitter, Wood Splitter - Super Split(R)

Here's a solid choice for hydraulic:
Iron & Oak Commercial Log Splitters - PRODUCTS

I got my commercial hydraulic splitter here, and highly recommend the company/owner:
All Wood Log Splitters - Home - Milan, MI

 

[Slackerjpt]

Ny

Where in NY are you?

 

[waldershrek]

I'm in Marathon, just south of Cortland.



I just wanted to update the thread......I have several calls out to various firewood and logging places in my area. Got my first call back from on today (an actual firewood business). He has log length firewood, 16ft lengths. Mix of Maple and Ash. He delivers in a dump truck and charges $350 per load. Says there's 8-10 face cords of wood per load. That works out to be $1400 for the amount of wood I need or he can deliver it cut and split for $1650. Tried to give me a song and dance about how really I should just get it from him already split because when I factor in my time, saw, fuel etc it will cost me more.

The guy was kind of a #### really. When I told him I was calling around to check prices he told me I shouldn't bother because his prices are the lowest around. I guess I should have informed him I already have a price from a guy in Fabius (even further away) that can deliver 10 cords worth in log form for $1100.

I'm still waiting on a few calls back from 3 other places so we'll see what happens. I was telling my buddy (who also burns wood) about my quote for $1100 and he said I was crazy to pay that much for logs.

 

[zogger]

I'm in Marathon, just south of Cortland.



I just wanted to update the thread......I have several calls out to various firewood and logging places in my area. Got my first call back from on today (an actual firewood business). He has log length firewood, 16ft lengths. He delivers in a dump truck and charges $350 per load. Says there's 8-10 face cords of wood per load. That works out to be $1400 for the amount of wood I need or he can deliver it cut and split for $1650. Tried to give me a song and dance about how really I should just get it from him already split because when I factor in my time, saw, fuel etc it will cost me more.

The guy was kind of a #### really. When I told him I was calling around to check prices he told me I shouldn't bother because his prices are the lowest around. I guess I should have informed him I already have a price from a guy in Fabius (even further away) that can deliver 10 cords worth in log form for $1100.

I'm still waiting on a few calls back from 3 other places so we'll see what happens. I was telling my buddy (who also burns wood) about my quote for $1100 and he said I was crazy to pay that much for logs.

Dang Vern, you are missing all this heat! 100 bucks one way or the other ain't gonna do you no good if your wood ain't dry next winter! You need it cut split and stacked ASAP. You got green wood only half seasoned next winter you can go out there with a wallet full of smilin' Benjamins and wave them all around and it won't burn any better.

As it is now, you better split smaller than you might want, unless you get all ash.

A week at 100 degrees and real dry out is loads better than a month at 80 with high humidity.

 

[waldershrek]

So you are thinking that I should just suck it up and pay for the already split wood and then worry about logs next year?

 

[Hedgerow]

FWIW, I deliver about 14 cord of hedge to a customer with a Taylor OWB. He likes it, but his only gripe is being able to really control the air supply when the wind is strong out of the southwest. Seems it gets a little hotter than he would like. So he has been trying to control his temps and burn time with large pieces of wood. The firebox is 36" deep and close to 24" x 24" high and wide... I deliver him 24 -27" long stuff up to 16" in diameter. Nothing smaller than 6" round.
He burns year round for the hot water.
For now, if I were you, I'd just get a load of something in quick and bust it to useable size. Get it stacked quick and take advantage of the hot dry months... The clock is ticking... Tick tick tick!!!
Splitter? = Speeco 22 or 30 ton hydro
Saw? = The 310 will be fine for now. Just learn how to sharpen a chain and keep spare loops handy. $250 is a bit high for it, but not totally out of the realm of reasonable.

Read the threads on this site every chance you get and learn everything from how to tune a saw, to what woods burn longest and how to sharpen a chain. Make like a sponge and ask specific questions. There's a wealth of info here...