Back in 1992 I came up with a way of doing the bore cut and getting the wedge(s) established while having matching cuts all the way around. This is generally dependent on a long enough bar.
1) Place your bore cut up to the holding wood and head about half way out the back. Pull your bar out so that you complete this portion of the back cut leaving a pillar, of sorts, on one side of the rear. Place an insurance wedge gently by the cut side’s hinge and a regular wedge snuggly near the rear. Finish the back cut from the opposite and balance with a second rear wedge or as needed. A weakness to this tactic is that you have to place yourself on both sides of the tree. Which may not be safe.
bwalker in post #7 states: "You can still use the bore cut method, but instead leave your holding wood off to one side so you can place the wedge perpendicular to the hinge." I think that is the same thing or close to what I'm saying.
Since about '95 I've seen where some books etc mention doing a half back cut, establishing a wedge, then going to the other side and best guessing a match on the other half of a back cut. Not bad usually, but if you're working at a max limit to talk a tree over leaving even just a sliver/or a mismatch can hold up the world.
But Mr. Walker and perhaps others may have figured this out long ago.
Also with a large, wide open conventional face or GOL face this can be accomplished on trees with diameters > than the bar length. But that’s another story that depends on good holding wood in the corners and no major need for the holding wood in the center.
