Ordered unassembled Bailey's ms 390 now what

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Fish. Just an FYI. Your posts are coming through. You can only do so much.

If he's replacing everything that can leak, does what caused the first one to burn up matter? I know you know more than I do about this stuff, so I'm asking.


If you're going to quote me, put my whole post in there! Why are you acting this way? I was asking a question. I wanted to know. I guess you know everything. I haven't given a NEG REP in a long time. Here comes one!
 
Gasket maker. Permatex makes an "ultra grey" that I have had great results with. A little cheaper and available at most auto parts stores. High oil resistance, for high torque load applications and withstands 500 degrees.

Ultra Grey is a no no! NOT gasoline resistant. Gasket Maker is a mess and I wouldn't use it on saws. Permatex motoseal is ok, a littly runny for my liking. Threebond 1194 is what I use, same product as yamabond 4 or hondabond. Dirko is good too but not available locally for me. Any good motorcycle shop will have either the Threebond, Yamabond, or Hondabond.
 
If you're going to quote me, put my whole post in there! Why are you acting this way? I was asking a question. I wanted to know. I guess you know everything. I haven't given a NEG REP in a long time. Here comes one!

I'd certainly want to know what toasted it in the first place like most folks would....even if I were replacing most of the "leakable" parts. Wouldn't you?

Only seems logical and obvious to me. Sorry I pee'd in your Wheaties.

Sheesh.
 
No, I think it is always a good idea to find out the cause of the failure, so it won't happen to the new piston/cylinder. Considering that a mis-
adjusted carb could be a problem, bad fuel, no oil in mix, partially clogged carb.

Had one guy burn his saw up just because he cleaned his air filter finally. He would always adjust his carb all of the time, each time leaning it more and more to compensate for his clogged air filter, then one day got the bright idea to borrow my air gun and clean his filter while I sharpened his chains. He came back later that day, his famous last words were, "It was really screaming real good untill it locked up!!!"

I took a quick look at his saw, checked his carb adjustments, told him what burned up his saw.
 
Ever feel like you can't give good advice for free? Seems like people value it more if they pay you. If Fish asks a question.... Trying to assist you. Maybe you should answer it? Consider it a qualifying question. Perhaps he's trying to answer your question. Reading the thread it doesn't seem like you want help.
 
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Dull chain and bad fuel line.
I did notice problem but did not stop before damage occurred. Expensive learning lesson. Have switched to SEF to eliminate fuel issues. VP fuels only 2 miles out of the way on the way home from work.

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk 2

If the fuel line was indeed the cause, then you need to seriously look at the carb!!!
 
Finally took saw apart (six months after getting new motor)The piston and Cylinder are both in excellent shape BUT the (crank bearing is toast.) Edit "Should have said rod bearing on the crank is toast." Have the old motor out and new in with fresh resealed crankcase. Clutch and flywheel reinstalled. I'm done for the night. Need to get new impluse line.
 
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Finally took saw apart (six months after getting new motor)The piston and Cylinder are both in excellent shape BUT the crank bearing is toast. Have the old motor out and new in with fresh resealed crankcase. Clutch and flywheel reinstalled. I'm done for the night. Need to get new impluse line.

are we to understand you replaced one engine with a bad bearing with another engine. To replace a crank bearing on a clam shell saw takes a bare few minutes after disassembled. Otherwise, hope you get your saw running.
 
are we to understand you replaced one engine with a bad bearing with another engine. To replace a crank bearing on a clam shell saw takes a bare few minutes after disassembled. Otherwise, hope you get your saw running.

Should have said rod bearing on the crank.
 
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Should have said rod bearing on the crank.

If the rod bearing (meaning the pressed on one that is part of the connecting rod) is bad, toss the crank and pick up a good used crank somewhere. If it is the wrist pin bearing that slides in the end of the rod that is an easy fix. The part is around $15.00 here.
 
If the rod bearing (meaning the pressed on one that is part of the connecting rod) is bad, toss the crank and pick up a good used crank somewhere. If it is the wrist pin bearing that slides in the end of the rod that is an easy fix. The part is around $15.00 here.

I replaced the motor with a Baileys 390 unassembled in it. Waiting on compression release button and impluse line to come in to finish.
 
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It's ALIVE. I know why old motor burt up know. Carb was way out of adjustment and fuel line was cracked. Did minor muffler mod by cutting metal out between existing slots and grinding notch in cover. Have not put bar on yet. MAX rpm with no bar 13,200 and idle 2500 . Tach is a big help in tuning. Low speed needs work. Can't put bar on now and adjust because neighbor has small kids getting ready for bed. Thank You
 

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