And a couple more details.
44 hours labor and close to complete.
Pioneerguy600
44 hours labor and close to complete.
Pioneerguy600
I personally would not part it out as it is not hard to get a good one up and running if you can do the work yourself. The NOVA II module will run that saw if you really need it but most times just cleaning and setting the points will restore spark on the Pioneers. The point contacts must be clean and shiny to work correctly , set them at 0.022 and you should have spark if there is no other problems. Did you get any info from Lawrence? I read his post where he made an offer and just let it ride, I figured he would give you all the info he could on how to remove the flywheel and check all the ignition parts. If you need more info just ask and some of us will certainly help but not all of us are on every evening so some times it may seem like a long while before you get an answer.
Pioneerguy600
The clutch driver unscrews with left hand thread and a special tool was used by Pioneer, I made my own and use a battery impact driver to remove all the threaded clutches on all saws. You should remove the spark plug and insert some rope such as pull cord into the sparkplug hole to partially fill the cylinder, then the piston will come up and jam it stopping rotation. The piston should be half way up toward the top so that the rope does not get caught in the exhaust port before inserting any rope or cord, this really works on all chainsaws.
Pioneerguy600
Thank you Jerry, I will build a tool with dowel pins that line up with the curved slots in the clutch driver that I can put on an impact wrench. thank you
This is exactly the answer that I was looking for. Yes, Lawrence is going to be scanning and emailing me some service information. The coil on the armature has some cracks in it. Not the coil itself, but the covering on it... I hope that does not hurt it.
The students in my class are helping me to work on it. Does anyone have any pointers on removing/servicing the carburetor? Any kits available for it?
One other thing... the rear engine cover says "400" but the model number plate states the model as "410". any reasoning to that?? These numbers are on the same piece of metal... I will snap and share some pictures tomorrow.
Thank you all for your willingness to help,
TFB
Wow Jerry, that RA is a thing of beauty, it looks absolutely immaculate. Nice work!
I think I'm going to be sick with envy.You are indeed a perfectionist.That is one smart looking saw.I feel like that little train engine,I think I can,I think I can..........I only wish.I'm not brown nosing HaaaaaHaaaaaa LOL!
Lawrence
Jerry; The round emblem on the top cover....when was that made vs. mine, which has the Pioneer script?
To answer some of your questions , if the plate says 410 then it is most likely a newer version of the 400. The 400 was made in 1958-59 and used a Brown carb which there is no kits for, the 400A was also made in 1955 and uses a Tillotson -108A carb. The model 410 was made in 1960-61 and uses the Tillotson 108A carb and there is kits easily obtainable for these carbs, you can get them at any small engine repair shop. The Pioneer saws were being rapidly developed in this time slot and some parts were carried over into each newer model of saw hence you would see parts from an earlier model show up on the newer version as it would cost big money and take up considerable time to change the molds used to cast the parts just to change a number up from say 400-410 or like the 600 series they kept the top cover with 600 on it and used the cover on the model 600, 600A and 610. The usual changes dealt mostly with the carburetors, air filters and air intake adapters to give the engines better airflow and fuel delivery plus better air filtration. The carb should be an easy removal after taking off the air filter and the rear handle cover to expose the throttle linkage. The fuel primer and hoses are one of the worst problems with these old saws and they usually need replacing but the primer pump kits are rare although Propliner has them sometimes. Keep us informed how you are doing ant let us know what type of carb you have on your saw when you get it out.
Pioneerguy600
Jerry,
I'm gonna guess that I have a 410 model saw. The carburetor adjustment screws are located on the side of the saw and NOT through the holes in the carburetor cover. I snapped a picture of the rear cover, the carburetor area, and the armature. I am gonna guess that I have a Tillotson carburetor, which is a blessing I guess. If I am unable to get this saw to spark, where will I be able to get a "NOVA II" solid state module?
Thanks,
TFB
And a couple more details.
44 hours labor and close to complete.
Pioneerguy600
Truly amazing Jerry! Thanks for posting these great photos. They will serve as inspiration on the long road to getting my RA cleaned up and back together.
That is what I did, welded two pieces of steel on the end of a 3/8" drive socket that fit in the slots of the clutch carrier. Works every time on the saws I have used it on.
Pioneerguy600
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