please explain chain gauge

[stihlinflorida]

Why is everything so complicated?
I'm getting an education, so please be patient with me.
I purchased a used MS 361 Stihl and need a new bar/chain. I can buy either a 3/8 w/ a .050 or a .063 gauge bar/chain combo. My thought is the .063 will last longer. What is the difference and why?

Thanks for any help

J

 

[Stihl #1]

Since no one else has joined in I will give you my thoughts. Gauge is a thickness measurement of metal. STIHL makes .043 thick drive links for the small saws and pole pruners, .050 for most other models. Most of the .325 pitch chain (pitch is a measurement of any 3 rivets divided by 2: 1/4", .325, 3/8", .404., etc.) that STIHL sells is .063 gauge. Husky uses .058 a lot.
The theory is that the thicker the drive link (gauge) the longer the chain will last and the less likely the drive link will wear on one side and start cutting crooked. But the thicker the gauge the more mass the chain has and so the more horsepower needed to pull the chain around the bar and through the wood.
So on a pole pruner or small saw like a MS 170 using a .043 gauge chain would actually feel like the saw had more power that using an .050 gauge chain.
But I generally use .050 on mid size saws and that will usually work out just fine.
I run .063 gauge .404 on my 084 since it has plenty of power.
HTH

 

[mtgrs737]

I don't know if the .063" gauge will last longer but the chain sure does weigh more that the .050" gauge chains. I figure that the .050" gauge chain will take less HP to pull it around the bar so more HP is available to cut wood. I set up all three of my Stihls with 3/8" x .050" chains, sprockets, and bars so that I could use the same chains on all of them.

 

[GASoline71]

.063 will not last longer... it's just bigger.

Use .050, 3/8" on your 361... the saw will like it and so will you...

Gary

 

[Rookie1]

I guess there are a bunch of different gauges but I stick with popular ones like 3/8 .050. That way you could get it anywhere if you had to.

 

[stihlinflorida]

Y'all make sense. I prefer "field advice" over "sales experience". I' m thinking .050 gauge now, even though the saw has the hp for .063. I'll probably use a green chain, too. What is the thinking on the hardness of the Stihl vs. Oregon or others?

J

 

[excess650]

Y'all make sense. I prefer "field advice" over "sales experience". I' m thinking .050 gauge now, even though the saw has the hp for .063. I'll probably use a green chain, too. What is the thinking on the hardness of the Stihl vs. Oregon or others?

J

"green chain" won't save the planet , rather, its safety chain because big brother is tryin to protect us from ourselves.:censored: The yellow tagged, non-safety chain will cut more aggressively and has less, or smaller rakers to deal with when it comes to sharpening time.

Opinions vary, but the consensus seems to lean toward Stihl making the best chain, and I'm not inclined to disagree. It is more expensive unless you have a source to get it heavily discounted. The site sponsors here at AS (I've bought from Bailey's and Amick's) have good prices. I run whatever I have and sharpen it when its dull.

Stihl's 3/8 .050 is good stuff as verified by running it on my 99cc 066BB.

 

[nilzlofgren]

If in the future, if you decide to switch gauges from .050 to .063, you will also need to get a different bar. The new bar will need to have a groove that is .063 wide, to except the .063 gauge chain. Also don't run a smaller gauge chain, .050, in a larger gauge bar .063. That could be dangerous.

 

[heimannm]

On chain hardness and gauge

In a recent thread, someone actually measured the hardness of chains (cutting tooth) from several manufacuters (Stihl, Oregon, BG/Carlton), GB was slightly harder but no real statistical difference.

Sorry I don't have the reference but I sure a quick search will lead the way.

On the matter of gauge, I have .050,.058, and .063 in .325, .375, and .404. All it really means to me is I have to be pretty careful to get the right bar/chain combinations together. I like the .063/.404 on my older saw as I think they are more original.

If I had only a few saws I would try to make them all the same, as it is, I will continue to use whatever comes in with the saws I add to the collection.

Mark

 

[Termite]

Check-out

Do a search of posts by HolmenTree. He seems to have a good insight into chain. He suggests .063 for many reasons.

 

[Roy M]

Stihl#1 mentioned .325x .063. This size seems to be a regional thing, we do not see it here. Most Stihls, with the exception of the MS170. MS180, and MS192, are sold with .050 although some show up with .058. The MS880 almost always has .063.
Husqvarna comes mostly with .058, I understand this is the gauge of choice in Europe.

 

[The Lorax]

Here in my part of Europe, Husky = .058 and Stihl = .063
but as always .050 is also available as 3/8 but not seemingly as .325
Of course microkerf .050 .325 Oregon 95vp H30 is common on lower capacity saws

1.1mm - .043
1.3mm - .050
1.5mm- .058
1.6mm -.063

 

[stihlinflorida]

I'm blown away by the good advice I've received here. I have done some more checking and am thinking the .063 might be better for what I need. I still believe in heavy duty things so they are less apt to break and by having a larger chain driver link, my thoughts are it will last longer. I have an old Model A and the flywheel in it weighs 75#. That translates to lots of torque at the bottom end. Rotating mass should display the same characteristic. Maybe I'm just displaying what the bean counters call "presale cognitive dissonance" (For you non-bean counters, thats where one justifies his future purchase--like the new Chevy Duramax to his wife, because he will save 10 grand by buying NOW).
I'm still thinking, tho, so if anyone has any other ideas, chime in.

J

 

[stihlinflorida]

View attachment 80693

FYI--Stihl owners
I found this PDF on the web on chains for all the MS saws. It may be of help to someone.
J

 

[valekbrothers]

stihlinflorida,,,,,,,

Let me be the first to tell you that I stongly recomend going with stihl chains.. I have used them all, stihl, husqvarna, oregon, carlson,,,,,

Stihl outlast and holds an edge much longer than the rest....
We run 3/8 .050 on everything except the newly purchased Husqvarna 41...(Soon to be converted) We put a new Husqvarna chain on and within about an hour of cutting it started pulling to the left,,, Break out the file!

My Husqvarna has had the same Stihl chain on for about 7 months now,,,, for a total of about 10 - 12 cords of wood (mostly dead standing oak),,,, a few touch ups with the file and away I go.....

Hope this helps.

 

[rmihalek]

failures

The failures I've seen on chains in my 30+ years of cutting wood are in the area of where the side plate and the rivet are. I've never seen a drive link fail. So, what's the purpose of a 0.063" thick drive link? I have no idea, maybe it's a metric thing as The Lorax posted...

I run either 0.050" or 0.058" on my bigger saws and 0.043" on the top handle saw and they all work great.

 

[stihlinflorida]

bro,
I am planning to use stihl bar and chain. I read somewhere that Stihl makes their own chain. I like that. I'm still thinking .063, tho. Ran my saw this afternoon and guess what--my chain did the same as yours--went sideways. I guess that's a husky for ya. My other saw is a poulan. It is a cheapie, and has to be fiddled with regularly, but is ok for limbing. I have an OLD poulan 361, but needs to be rebuilt and new carb kit...just can't get worked up to do that...too many other projects.
Thanks for the input and confirmation on the chain.

J