Post your helpful chainsaw/cutting tips and tricks.

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Well this is very interesting stuff I was wondering if I had anything to add. Now I know that you should always wear eye protection but even with my screen shied I still get stuff in my eyes from time to time. My kit contains a 4" spot mirror the kind a dump truck may have below the full size one. It has saved me many slow painful trips back home to dig saw dust or some other crap from one of my eyes. As far as gear I take a lot of stuff but one thing I always have is a spare re-coil.
Also I would like to see some plunge cut demo's I have done it a few times but most of my trees I cut for fire wood are 24" and under. I was wondering if people plunge cut on trees that size or just the larger stuff? Great idea Ed,...and wonderful information form you all thanks . Jeff
 
It would be easy to write a small book incorporating all of the tips that are posted here in this thread (hint for budding authors). Tens of thousands of copies could be sold. I'm not sure that a "1000 Chains Saw Tips" book has ever been published. Here's a rule I've been following lately when collecting firewood at a drop site or in the woods:

Bring to the site no less than two saws of different size, no less than four sharp chains, and no less than three bars.
 
YEP,THAT WHY I KEEP BUMPING IT,I FOUND MANY NEW IDEAS I NEVER THOUGHT OF!!!! IT BE NICE IF THE IDEAS WERE IN A FORMAT ON HERE SOME WHERE,WERE NEW OR VETERANS ALIKE COULD FIND THESE IDEAS EASY........:clap::bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
 
Also I would like to see some plunge cut demo's I have done it a few times but most of my trees I cut for fire wood are 24" and under. I was wondering if people plunge cut on trees that size or just the larger stuff? Great idea Ed,...and wonderful information form you all thanks . Jeff
I plunge cut just about everything with enough room too. It doesn't take any extra time and I appreciate the extra piece of mind.
 
We had several threads about the different tool boxes and carry cases guys used to keep their stuff together, or to carry into the woods. Many of those photographs were lost. Good to see some again!

Thanks.

Philbert
 
it holds 6 plastic stihl chain boxes very tight , nothing slides around but the depth gauge tool ,tuning screwdrivers , spark plugs , black sharpie but they stay contained to there area.
I double up on the 16" chain 2 per box
so on hand I keep 4 16" , 3 20" and 1 25"
two file guides .325 ,3/8
6 pack of hp in one gallon mix
I like to keep my fuel fresh by adding a gallon at a time to a 2.5 gallon jug
and you have to have at least a 16' tape measurer for bragging rights proof :D
 
Couple weeks ago I couldnt find the scabbard for my Super Wiz so being the cheap bast^$d I am I grabbed some insulation tubing and made it work. Sometimes you got to do what you got to do. I never leave home without a bed full of saws!
123010_zps388aae00.jpg
 
Couple weeks ago I couldnt find the scabbard for my Super Wiz so being the cheap bast^$d I am I grabbed some insulation tubing and made it work. Sometimes you got to do what you got to do. I never leave home without a bed full of saws!
123010_zps388aae00.jpg
 
I cut my own felling and bucking wedges that I use in the woods using scrap hardwood. A 4 to 5-degree wedge is about optimal with a pointed end. These are easy to lose, so I paint a blue stripe on them:

The loops hold several. I make these from scrap wire saved from political campaign signs.
 
IMG_0353.JPG
Sometimes when I'm aways from the truck cutting I'll cut smaller wood in 8' lengths to cut down on trips back and forth from the brush to the landing
My saws are prepped the night before 2 bucking and 1 limbing. If I dull two chains in one day that's probably a full dump trailer and I'll call it a day.
I always carry a wheel barrel to hump it out to the landing. I carry most of the tools mention here and a few wedges and a youth axe.
I carry my camera and shotgun in the truck just in case I see something interesting or tasty.
For me wood heat is the way to go because fuel oil is 3.75 a gallon and propane just shot up to 4.75 a gallon.
It has been in the -0 at night here for 2 months and probably through march.
Happy Cutting
Randy
 
I cut my own felling and bucking wedges that I use in the woods using scrap hardwood. A 4 to 5-degree wedge is about optimal with a pointed end. These are easy to lose, so I paint a blue stripe on them

I found out why stihl wedges are orange ,,,
so when they fall down through the cut on the big logs (that you don't know what there going to do pinch or spread)
and hits the top of your bar and launches it a mile its a little easier to find:D

Wood Doctor,
that's a good idea to make your own might try some out of hedge or pecan

yours looks like red oak?
you cutting them on a table saw or band saw?

might tie a long pink ribbon to mine :ices_rofl:
 
I found out why stihl wedges are orange ,,,
so when they fall down through the cut on the big logs (that you don't know what there going to do pinch or spread)
and hits the top of your bar and launches it a mile its a little easier to find:D

Wood Doctor,
that's a good idea to make your own might try some out of hedge or pecan

yours looks like red oak? You cutting them on a table saw or band saw?

might tie a long pink ribbon to mine :ices_rofl:
I usually cut them from an 8" wide x 10" long slab of 2" thick hardwood using a table saw with a dedicated ripping blade. You can use a tapering jig or my simpler technique: Tape a 3/4" thick spacer peg on the slab near the end furthest from the saw blade (between the fence and the slab) and set the fence at 1/8" closer than the slab width. Rip with the end of the slab flush and the spacer peg flush to the fence. The cut off "waste" forms the first wedge.

The second wedge is created by removing the peg and ripping again, moving the fence 7/8" closer to the blade. The slab is then flush to the fence along its entire length. The third wedge is created by taping the peg to the near end again and moving the fence 7/8" closer to the blade. Continue cutting wedges until only an inch or so of stock is left. That's the real waste.

The wedge shapes are then crosscut for symmetry at the thick ends by using a second one positioned half-way up and underneath the one being trimmed. That way you will form a long isosceles triangle. I generally sharpen the pointed end slightly with a disk sander.
 

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