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When you come across a tree hung up in another tree and using a rope too pull it down, rap your choker around the tree. This helps to roll the tree out of the other as you pull it.
 
When filing, cram a wedge between the chain & bar to tighten the chain without wasting mucho time fiddling with your wrench..

i learned that here..

I was always taught that if the chain is snug without sagging, while still moving freely, the drive sprocket will last a LOT longer, as will the drive links.
I could never fit a wedge between the chain and bar.

Shop tip: Gorilla® duct tape can be used to vacuum check a saw. One piece on the carb manifold, one on the freshly cleaned exhaust port flange. Stick a vacuum pump in the impulse line, and pump away. You may have to rub the tape to be sure it is stuck on there well, but it will hold sufficient vacuum to ensure the seals are good.

Ammo can has a pair of hemostats as well as the other things mentioned previously. I will add a small paint brush to clean around the flip caps before opening them.
 
More of a wood burning tip, but here is a coal saver I made for my wife. She saw one in the Lehman's catalog but it was like 17 bucks plus shipping. I bought a cheapo ash shovel for 4 bucks, cut out most of the bottom and welded in a piece of expanded metal. Works good, seeing how little ash I am getting, I must have been throwing quite a few coals on the garden.
coalsaver.jpg

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LogRite Tools

Just thought I'd mention a place which makes some really good tools, including log carriers. They are a bit pricey, but if you like good tools, you should check them out. The stuff is really built to last.

www.logrite.com
 
After every use we clamp the bar in the vise for routine maintanance. makes that job sooo much easier. Of course any work in the clutch area requires the saw to be rolling around on the workbench . .

I have see some saw shops using this to hold a saw by the front handle while working on it. They are made for clamping bikes by the frame tubes. This is a bench mount version, there are also several free-standing models (www.parktool.com):

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My simple bracket for clamping a chainsaw to a table for filing, when no vice or stump vice is available:

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Simple bar cleaning tool (learned about it here on AS) - a used Sawzall (recip) blade with tape or heat shrink tubing around the teeth (*** Note: the blades come in different thicknesses - the thicker ones will not fit into .043 or .050 guide bars ***):

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Philbert
 
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I keep a pair of tweezers in my bag of tools. It not only is useful for pulling splinters but most it is used for cleaning the bar grove.
 
If you find a stripped screw, for instance a handlebar hold down screw or pull starter screw - insert a short piece of a wire tie into the hole before putting the screw back in. This will make the stripped out hole just small enough to allow the screw to tighten and hold.

Use an old beat up or broken hacksaw blade to clean out a bar groove. Fits correctly and will go deep enough to clean out all the sawdust so the oil will flow the length of the bar.

Best wishes,
Bob
 
Carry extra bar nuts. If you're working in snow or a lot of duff paint your scrench, your axe handle, your lunch box, your thermos, and all those extra bar nuts red. Don't use blue paint...blue paint makes the foresters nervous.
 
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Carry extra bar nuts. If you're working in snow or a lot of duff paint your scrench, your axe handle, your lunch box, your thermos, and all those extra bar nuts red. Don't use blue paint...blue paint makes the foresters nervous.

Why is that?

I can see red being OK with them, seeing how much they like safety! safety stuff is orange which isent far from red...
 
Why is that?

I can see red being OK with them, seeing how much they like safety! safety stuff is orange which isent far from red...

I use electric blue (light blue) paint on all my woods tools. Red and orange blend too well with fall leaf colors on the ground. I have never seen a light blue leaf.
 

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