Poulan 4018 Running Hot

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doctorj77

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Picked up a Poulan pp4018 at a garage sale for $15 this weekend. It came with the bar, chain, and case, figured for the price, what the hell why not. It was definitely used, but not too bad looking. I did notice though the plastic cover on top, showed signs of melting a little bit where it just covers over the muffler. Some of the plastic there got scorched. But the rest of it looked perfect.

So I took it home, put fresh 40/1 mix and tried to start it. No love. I then took it apart, found that the spark plug literally had no spark. Before concluding a I had a bad coil, I borrowed a plug from another Poulan saw, and 36cc, and put it in my garage sale saw. It fired up on the 2nd pull. The carb was way out of adjustment so decided to shut it off. This is where I quickly noticed the muffler was hot. I know they warm up quick, but I was a little concerned. This hadn't even been running for 1min. I decided to replace the fuel lines, filter, cleaned the carb good, and fire it back up, this time tuning the carb appropriately. Again it got hot within the first min.

So I'm happy I got this thing running, and for $15 I'm very happy. But I'm a little concerned about the heat. Has anyone experienced this before? One of the other things I noticed is when it revs high, I mean it revs high. It doesn't feel like a normal 40cc saw. I'm curious if maybe someone modded the muffler or something on this one cause at full throttle its screaming. I decided to shut it down and let it cool down.

While waiting for the cool down, I noticed the sticker on the back, the VIN, or whatever that's called, was clearly is labeled a 42cc made in 2006. But the plastic start & bar covers clearly say 40cc. I don't know if the previous owner swapped plastic at some time in its former life, or the factory would have snuck in a 42cc and labeled it a 40cc. I trust the sticker more than the plastic covers.
 
They only made these later saws in 42cc regardless of what the stickers say. Is this one of the strato saws with the separate air valve? I believe that it is - the easiest way to tell is that the earlier non-strato saws have a green foam air filter while the later ones have a white felt or paper type filter. Anyway, if it is a strato it should not have a catalytic converter muffler and it should not be getting that hot that fast, but from the sound of it the saw may be tuned way lean. That will heat things up. If it's a non-strato then it's a late one with a cat muffler and those will get very hot.

If you post a picture I can tell.
 
Based on what you describe, I would say its a non-strato model then as it has a white felt air filter. If that's the case, I guess my question is how hot is 'too hot' then for these saw? I already see evidence of it melting the cover.

EDIT: Pictures added






 
Actually it is a strato and does not have a cat muffler. It should not be getting all that hot. It looks like the top cover got pushed into the muffler, but you can get plenty of those on eBay.

When properly tuned it should "4-stoke" (misfire) lightly no load, and clean up in the cut. Also, a mild muffler mod may help reduce heat, but I have not modified that style.
 
Actually it is a strato and does not have a cat muffler. It should not be getting all that hot. It looks like the top cover got pushed into the muffler, but you can get plenty of those on eBay.

When properly tuned it should "4-stoke" (misfire) lightly no load, and clean up in the cut. Also, a mild muffler mod may help reduce heat, but I have not modified that style.

Oh, duh, I went back and re-read your 1st reply. Non-stratos = green filter with no separate air value......... So I'm sure it still needs tuning properly too. I'll work on that later this week. But for the meantime, can any obstructions like carbon build up in the Muffler cause extra heat? I got a bucket of Chem-Dip and have been dunking my chains, carbs, any anything else that gets deposits on it. Can't hurt anyway
 
From what I know those mufflers are quite restrictive stock, so maybe it's just that plus tuning? I would not dip the carb if it's working properly.
 
oh, lol no after some careful reading I learned I need to remove all synthetics, gaskets, diaphragms.....etc... That Chem-Dip is some nasty stuff, but it sure did clean the carb good on my PM610. As for this Poulan, I'll just leave the carb be as its working fine. But the muffler, can't hurt to take that apart and give it a good soak overnight
 

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