Does anyone really believe that two stroke oil for air cooled motorcycles is any different than for air cooled chainsaws?
You could run Motul 710 as the difference is an additive to keep the power valve on bike engines free
I like Motul 710 @ 40:1 in my Snellerized MS261. It seems to be clean & leaves a nice film.
Great info on this thread (minus the bickering of course). I was wondering the whole time reading this thread why if a 32:1 ratio is so much better why does my manual, and seemingly every other saw manual recommend a 50:1? Is it really a scam by "big chainsaw" to wear out saws after the warranty, it certainly wouldn't surprise me. I'm sure there is also some marketing involved too, consumer sees 50:1 on the saw or oil bottle and naturally assumes that it's better than the one that says 32:1. Whatever the reason reading this thread has changed my mind and I'll be switching to 32:1 or at least 40:1.
The other factor to the story is to do mainly with the US laws/regs on emissions the relevant Gov dept wanted to cut down on smoke & exhaust emissions so the manufactures achieved this by going North with the oil/fuel ratio. 50/1 seemed the magic number. Now they are trying to phase out 2 smokes altogether, which they have succeeded in doing in the Motorcycle Road & Moto X Racing the Moto GP classes are now all 4 stroke Shame really as back in the day a 500cc GP 4cyl 2 stroke was producing similar power at the rear wheel as a 1000cc 4 pot 4 stroke I read somewhere that if all the chainsaws in the US were run/used at the same time they would produce about the same pollution as a couple of 747's taking off from JFK airport if as many people ran saws as there are airline passengers. We would possibly get treated more fairly
Great point about the EPA. It is a real same about 2-stroke bikes, I have an "02 KTM EXC-250 and a '91 CR-125. Those little 125s have some much character! Absolute blast to ride.
When we ran Stihl's in the money making logging we ran a couple of saws for very close hours for 2 years, one on Stihl Ultra at 50/1 & "tother" on our own oil that we have used the last 8 years at 32/1, on stripping the 50/1 the bottom end was dry with signs of wear in the bore approx 6 thou over the part were the piston didn't run+ some ring wear.the crank bearings & seals were on their way out. The 32/1 the bottom end was oily wet the bore had approx 3 thou wear & the rings showed no visible wear, bottom end was reassembled with original bearings & new seals the piston /cylinder were just reassembled & the guy who bought it from the dealer we traded it in to was still working it hard 3years later using Ipone oil at IIRC 35/1
Some of the small independent oil company's/blenders cannot afford the cash for the Jaso etc. test I understand some years back it cost $75,000.The oil we use has no rating but we know the company has checked & tested most if not all the FD rated oils to see what "ingredients"they contain & brew theirs accordingly
Could you point me in the direction of the differences between the oil for bikes/ saws. I always was under the impression that 2 Smoke oil was either for air or liquid cooled motors & either premix or injection some suitable for more than 1 use. in variations between straight mineral & 100% synthetic
They will both work in a saw ,but most of the bike oils i have tried are overkill and do not fully burn though compared to a saw specific oil ,they are too thick ,that is why teardowns people show with bike oils have soaked pistons ,and clean spots on the pistons ,even wet muffler cans ,the bike oils are made for an engine that put out a lot more power than a saw ,what is a bike 45-60 hp ? A saw may be 5-9 tops ? I did not really kick in to me till i noticed the performance loss when i ran bike oil in my weedeater ,It makes more power with a oil made for power equipment than the bike oil ,Tunes out way better also ,as do my saws .Unburnt oil out the exhaust is wasted energy resulting in loss of performance .
Thanks for your reply, Working with & servicing saws for a hopefully a money making company working processing wood for the last 25 or so years, during that time we have used a good number of brands of mix oil among them Motul 710/800, Ipone Samurai, Castrol A747, Mobil MX1,+ other bike oils, I have not experienced the problems you have with a mixing at 32or35/1. The small blending company that we now get our oil from although not Jaso ratified has checked etc. the "ingredients" of other oils & blended a "brew" which they think suits us the best, one of their findings is the viscosity of Bike /Saw oil is very similar so your statement that bike oil is to thick in my use has not made any noticeable difference. I have always understood that for combating oil failure Castor base stock was the best but to quote it's a "Dirty" oil,this being R40/50.so that's fairly thick. Using Ipone oil we did not have any of the problems you experienced, & the Mobil oil left the motor internals the cleanest I have come across I must also add that our Fallers would notice any differences in saw performance in fact our most experienced guy to quote him "I'd know if a fly landed on the chain"& Iv'e had no adverse comments.
