Pricing this job. Need some input please.

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I am a little closer to the price the good ole boy wanted. With our overhead we really can't fool with anything for $300.00. I am leaving the cheap stuff to the illegal aliens.

Overheads a killer.

I don't have much, I'll take a couple small jobs like this one anyday. :cheers:
 
Why is overhead an issue with small jobs? Say you are doing a $600 job, which takes 8 manhours including travel. Now, you have a job 2 miles away that will take 20 minutes for 3 men.... That is a total of 1.5 manhours.....do you have a problem with that? Not me....
 
i do. if me and my old lady can do it by ourselves, youd better believe we will be.

also rb. i saw a video of you self lowering the top out of a conifer. howd you do that??? bein going over it in my head the last day or two, and all i can think of is a figure eight crotched on the spar... but it looks like youve gotit on your belt lol. please elaborate for me.

also also. whoever dropped that fir down that fenceline is a bad mothef:censored:er lol
 
i do. if me and my old lady can do it by ourselves, youd better believe we will be.

also rb. i saw a video of you self lowering the top out of a conifer. howd you do that??? bein going over it in my head the last day or two, and all i can think of is a figure eight crotched on the spar... but it looks like youve gotit on your belt lol. please elaborate for me.

also also. whoever dropped that fir down that fenceline is a bad mothef:censored:er lol

I self lower all the time just wrap it around a stob left for the purpose.
I wrap about four times and cut the limb shut off the saw and feed it
slack. Really better to use three strand rather than braid in this type
work.
 
Okay, so now I feel MUCH better about this. The Property company I did this for sends me a ton of work, and for that reason a always try to give them a price that is under market value, mostly because all their tree works they need done goes through me, and I never have to bid against anyone. They trust me on my prices, and my prices are fair.
Here's the bang. I did this job for $600! WAAYYY under market value.

You guys are great, and I much appreciate the info here.

By the way, I am in Redding CA. Shasta County.

I would still appreciate any more comments you have on this one.

How long did it take you and how many guys did you have on the job?
 
500 Each....4 guys MAYBE.....MAYBE..... 4 HOURS!!!! 3 guys loader and stumper,damage free and done.But some one would low me and get it for 800.00

As long as you made money thats all that counts.
 
proper bidding

I would have bid @ 2300-2700 to take down and haul off w/out touching the stumps here in Downsville, La, but I wouldn't have gotten the job. Some will, some won't, oh well. People around here work for nothing. For instance say you had a 70-75' pine that is approx 43" around at breast height.....tree is 15' from the house and is not accessible by a bucket. will not have to be lowered, but must be climbed, topped, and hauled off... (Complete cleanup)....Not many limbs say only top 20' has limbs..... I have done work for the gent before and so I told him I would do it for 900.... I was told I am bidding waaaaay too high????? What gives?
 
I would have bid @ 2300-2700 to take down and haul off w/out touching the stumps here in Downsville, La, but I wouldn't have gotten the job. Some will, some won't, oh well. People around here work for nothing. For instance say you had a 70-75' pine that is approx 43" around at breast height.....tree is 15' from the house and is not accessible by a bucket. will not have to be lowered, but must be climbed, topped, and hauled off... (Complete cleanup)....Not many limbs say only top 20' has limbs..... I have done work for the gent before and so I told him I would do it for 900.... I was told I am bidding waaaaay too high????? What gives?

congratulaitons. youve just been lowballed!:chainsaw:
 
Those are some pretty easy trees by the looks of it, around here I would say probably 1200 and be lucky if I got that. Looks like a load of chips and a load of logs in my one ton. About a 6 hour job if that.
 
ialso rb. i saw a video of you self lowering the top out of a conifer. howd you do that??? bein going over it in my head the last day or two, and all i can think of is a figure eight crotched on the spar... but it looks like youve gotit on your belt lol. please elaborate for me.

also also. whoever dropped that fir down that fenceline is a bad mothef:censored:er lol

Fig 8 sucks for lowering...can't adjust the friction. I normally use just a couple of branch stubs as rigging points, then route the line as needed back and forth or around as needed using a couple more stubs below....easy to fine tune the amount of friction....multiple wraps on a stub might be too much-gotta let the load run. If I'm concerned about the line popping off, I'll sling the trunk and add one of two carabiners as a rigging point, or just to assure the line stays put.

Old double braid works fine for natural crotch rigging.....don't want to abrade new stuff. I usually use 12 strand however. Haven't used 3 strand in years and years, though it does work well, with the benefit of some added friction. It's fine if it doesn't twist or hockle.
 
Fig 8 sucks for lowering...can't adjust the friction. I normally use just a couple of branch stubs as rigging points, then route the line as needed back and forth or around as needed using a couple more stubs below....easy to fine tune the amount of friction....multiple wraps on a stub might be too much-gotta let the load run. If I'm concerned about the line popping off, I'll sling the trunk and add one of two carabiners as a rigging point, or just to assure the line stays put.

Old double braid works fine for natural crotch rigging.....don't want to abrade new stuff. I usually use 12 strand however. Haven't used 3 strand in years and years, though it does work well, with the benefit of some added friction. It's fine if it doesn't twist or hockle.

Rb most times I self lower I am butt tying so shock load really is
not a factor. I will wrap making sure my wrap on the stob is not going to
cross my wraps when loaded as that really stinks :laugh: Then I cut wraps
will hold it until I shut saw off and feed slack! I do this mostly so my wife
can steer limb away from bushes,flowers etc. I know I should have more
help but hey if works out.
 
Fig 8 sucks for lowering...can't adjust the friction. I normally use just a couple of branch stubs as rigging points, then route the line as needed back and forth or around as needed using a couple more stubs below....easy to fine tune the amount of friction....multiple wraps on a stub might be too much-gotta let the load run. If I'm concerned about the line popping off, I'll sling the trunk and add one of two carabiners as a rigging point, or just to assure the line stays put.

Old double braid works fine for natural crotch rigging.....don't want to abrade new stuff. I usually use 12 strand however. Haven't used 3 strand in years and years, though it does work well, with the benefit of some added friction. It's fine if it doesn't twist or hockle.

awesome...

will give it a try next time its called for. thx rb

oh and i dont like the 8s either lol

Rb most times I self lower I am butt tying so shock load really is
not a factor. I will wrap making sure my wrap on the stob is not going to
cross my wraps when loaded as that really stinks :laugh: Then I cut wraps
will hold it until I shut saw off and feed slack! I do this mostly so my wife
can steer limb away from bushes,flowers etc. I know I should have more
help but hey if works out.

exactly why i was asking lmao
 
Anywhere from $600-$2000 would get the job done...depends who,s sold the work.
 
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