Question about bar and chain on husky 55

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CJH1

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I was working on my dads old 55 and the bar and rim sprocket are beyond shot. The current setup is .325 pitch .058 gauge and 78 drive links. He got a new stihl 362 for christmas and that runs 3/8 pitch .050, 72 drive links. Will the 55 pull a 3/8 pitch chain? If I'm going to replace the bar and sprocket, it would be nice to use the same chains for both saws. It looks like I can get a 20" bar with the 3/8 pitch for the 55. Any thoughts on how it will work out? The 55 is probably from 1995 or so, and I don't think it is considered a 55 rancher, just a 55. I could be wrong though. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
The same chain to match up to your Stihl would mean a 20" bar in 3/8 on the 55.....................Its not a very good option.
Go with .325 in a 15-18" bar lenght.
 
People are going to be telling you that a 20" bar is too much for the saw, but if you aren't looking for a race saw then it's fine. Considering you already have a 20" on there you shouldn't notice a huge difference.
 
In all honesty the 55 models branded as a "Rancher" came with a 3/8" rim on them. So, yes your dad's saw will pull a 3/8". I can not say how it will do with a 3/8 20" setup but my 51, has the closed port 55 top end, is running a .325 20" setup with no issues at all. If your dad's saw happens to be a 55 branded only with "Air Injection" and was built between 1998 and 2000, then it will be the closed port EPA model and should pull the setup just fine for the average firewood cutter.
 
I've had 2 51's(still have 1). I use 3/8 050 on them, 20" bars. It works fine for me, but I'm not cutting "hard woods" either.
 
In all honesty the 55 models branded as a "Rancher" came with a 3/8" rim on them. So, yes your dad's saw will pull a 3/8". I can not say how it will do with a 3/8 20" setup but my 51, has the closed port 55 top end, is running a .325 20" setup with no issues at all. If your dad's saw happens to be a 55 branded only with "Air Injection" and was built between 1998 and 2000, then it will be the closed port EPA model and should pull the setup just fine for the average firewood cutter.

Thanks for the replies. The saw does have "air injection" on the side decal. The saw has run the 20" .325 for the last 12 or so years with no problems. Since this saw will be demoted to a back-up saw, I think it will be worth a shot trying 3/8 pitch. The main reason behind switching is to have one chain size that will fit the two saws.
 
"Will pull" is a hopeless expression in such discussions, everyone will define it differently.

20" and 3/8" can of course be used, but it is a far from ideal combination on that saw.
 
Thanks for the replies. The saw does have "air injection" on the side decal. The saw has run the 20" .325 for the last 12 or so years with no problems. Since this saw will be demoted to a back-up saw, I think it will be worth a shot trying 3/8 pitch. The main reason behind switching is to have one chain size that will fit the two saws.

For the purposes you describe I would say it will work perfectly. You say it's a backup saw and you're not going to demand absolute performance out of it. Go for it :chainsaw:
 
Please remember that, changing from 325, to 3/8, also means that the gearing is changed!

Maybe it will work? But I say, it's not the set-up, that maximises the performance of the 55!

Just how I see it!
 
Max bar ?

I run a 20" .375 50 gauge full skp on mine and it handle fine. Wishing I had put a semi skip on it instead. It is a back up saw so why worry about performance on a rarely used saw:laugh:
 
""Will pull" is a hopeless expression in such discussions, everyone will define it differently.

20" and 3/8" can of course be used, but it is a far from ideal combination on that saw"

+1

Very well put.

I had four 55's till a few months ago, sold both of my "Rancher" models with the 3/8" bar/chain set-ups. They are open port P/C's, and just OK with 3/8", even with an 18" bar. If you own a closed port model, you woln't find yourself using them much.

I kept both of my closed port models, which are much stronger runners. They are best suited to an 18" bar .325". Sure, they will "pull" more bar and more chain, but if you really want to keep the engine in it's power range and "push" them a bit, they will love the 18" .325 set-ups......Cliff
 
I run a 20" .375 50 gauge full skp on mine and it handle fine. Wishing I had put a semi skip on it instead. It is a back up saw so why worry about performance on a rarely used saw:laugh:

Skip may be a good idea, but then the whole purpose (using the same chain as on the MS362) is lost.....
 
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I plan to run 3/8" and a 16" bar on my muffler modded gasketless rancher 55........ I sure hope it does okay or the saw is a real dog.
 
It will be OK with 3/8", and get better after a few sharpenings without lowering the rakers.

The "Rancher" models with the open port P/C's have a broad power curve, but do not enjoy the strong upper mid-range and top end power that the closed port models have.

They "grunt" pretty well, and probably why they were outfitted with 3/8" set-ups in lieu of .325".

The reason .325" works better on these saws, is simply the amount of load applied to the engine is less, at least for the amount of work they are doing. This keeps engine rpm's up, and chain speed as well.

Bottom line here, any Husqvarna 55 will easily pull a 20" bar with 3/8" chain. There are many thousands of them in service doing this just fine. It's still not the ideal set-up, in terms of power, weight, chain speed and cutting potential, IMHO.

If you want top efficiency and cutting speed, go to .325" and no longer than an 18" bar. A closed port 55 with 16" .325" is quite a cutting machine. I can see no difference anyplace between one and the "famous" 346XP in actual use.....Cliff
 
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