Question to all who buy used saws....

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Khntr85

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Hello long time lurker first time poster lol.... First off let me say you guys have a absolutely awesome site here, tons of info, good people, and everyone seems to always try and help one another out, my hats off.....
My question to all you guys that have been buyin and sellin saws for probably as long as I have been alive is what are key things you look for..... Is it compression, piston, if the piston looks ok but the bar has zero paint and the chain is so dull it won't cut a 2x4 does that weigh into your overall opinion of the saw...
I have been lookin for a 044, 440, or 361 for a long time, and last night I thought I found a 361..... I go look at saw it starts fine, sounds decent, idles good, oiler works.....I brought a 12" or 15" piece of red oak as I always do check out a saw, and chain won't cut butter and bar has zero paint....yes I know how to dress bar and sharpen a chain, but makes me wonder how long did the previous owner try to cut with it as it is....

Thanks a lot guys and I hope to get some good replies..... Kyle
 
Did you remove the muff and take a good look at the piston?

Did you end up buying the 361?

...Everything you mentioned is a factor when considering buying used. Certainly some factors far more outweigh others.
 
No sir I didn't look at piston... He is asking 400 for saw.... I have a mas250 and a 290.... I cut a lot of firewood, I am on a job now we're I get 90 tops of mostly black walnut, some ash and oak....thanks for replyUSMC615 do you think if piston looks on saw is worth 400...
I should add that I do know that there has been many threads like this, I just thought any additional pointers would be good for all....
Thanks in advance Kyle...
 
No sir I didn't look at piston... He is asking 400 for saw.... I have a mas250 and a 290.... I cut a lot of firewood, I am on a job now we're I get 90 tops of mostly black walnut, some ash and oak....thanks for replyUSMC615 do you think if piston looks on saw is worth 400...
I should add that I do know that there has been many threads like this, I just thought any additional pointers would be good for all....
Thanks in advance Kyle...
I would certainly check the piston out...if it's ok, and the physical condition of the saw is good, not beat all to hell, it may not be a bad deal. I can't see the saw so it's difficult to tell, at least without pics. You know you're already into it if you buy it, for dressing the bar and a little coin for a chain. The ol' sayin...everything used is always seen best through the eyes of the buyer...or beerholder.

Sounds like you've cut enough wood, you know what to look for. Be great to get a compression gauge on it as well.
 
Yes sir I have cut a lot, this job I on now with the 90 tops biggest I had yet.... Your sayin could not be anymore true, I am just lucky I told myself that I won't buy it before I got there unless it was a beauty....and yes sir I have been wanting to get a compression gauge, is there any you recommend....I don't need best just a good one that will work when I need it to....
 
It is a risk buying used. I bought my first saw brand new (Stihl 036Pro for $368). The rest were all used. 2 441's, 266SE and 266XP, an 038 Mag 2, a MS362 and 2 MS361's. All turned out great. One of the 361's needed an ignition, but everything else is great. My buddy has bought a few and one completely blew up and the other needed a clutch. Looking at the piston is an easy way to see usage. Also pull the plug and look at the air filter. Lastly take a good look at the whole say. Is it caked in dirt around the base, does it look like the owner took the covers off? The best other tool is use your ear. If it sounds good then go for it.
 
Hi there.
Only one piece of advice I can give you: if this is your first used chainsaw, pick a model for which there are plenty of aftermarket spares. The 044/MS440 fits the bill: you can pretty much build one from the ground up using aftermarket spares.
If you end up buying a saw that has been straight gassed or overrev'd too much, a genuine Stihl piston and cylinder alone will set you back hundreds of dollars... unless somebody here has used spares to sell you. ;)
 
Yes sir I have cut a lot, this job I on now with the 90 tops biggest I had yet.... Your sayin could not be anymore true, I am just lucky I told myself that I won't buy it before I got there unless it was a beauty....and yes sir I have been wanting to get a compression gauge, is there any you recommend....I don't need best just a good one that will work when I need it to....
I'll see what info I can find for ya. Several folks here within saw threads have made mention of comp gauges that are reliable and ain't the arm and leg Snap-On, etc priced gauges. Maybe others will post up some gauge info as well.
 
Comp gauges are good to use, so is vac/pres gauge. Lot more work if you are standing in a rain storm in a parking lot buying a saw!
 
Logeeland when you said your ear is good method I believe that to the fullest..... I wish I knew a guy around me that had a 361 just to hear her run and make a cut with it...and yes some people look at you like you are insane when you ask to take the muffler off to look at piston lmao.....
Conquistador3 thanks for the info I bought the 290 I have used and I know people have mixed reviews on the 290, but with the muf mod I did to it I swear it helped her out tremendously in the cut, with a carb adjust also... That is another reason why I don't jump gun and buy 361, because I know for sure it is built a whole lot better than the 290, but I honestly think I may be better to get a 044/440 so I can run bigger bars without a problem....
And thanks agian USMC let me know what gauge is good but not the most expensive....
I knew this was the site to come to I love it... I wish I woulda took pics of 361, but I had cut wood all day and it was dark, and the women was already Bitcoin bout gettin home lmao!!!
B I may call fella and go back in day light and take a look at piston and take pics for you guys, I really appreciate all replies so far...thanks Kyle
 
What is the price of the 361? I bought one of mine for $250. The person was selling at a yard sale and another for $275.00. He said it did not run. It needed an ignition but still worth the risk. I just sold the fist one. It runs amazing and does not leak!
 
Myself I like to look at the piston, That answers a great many questions for me. The I look at the overall condition of the saw. From there I make an offer. Also location is important. Some places small saws sell very well, and the larger ones sit for a while. So you have a good chance to get a bigger saw for less.
 
The seller might be selling a nice powerhead with a crap bar and using the nicer bar to sell a crap powerhead.
When I buy a used saw I don't even look at the chain or bar unless it is necessary for haggling.
All I do is pop the muffler for a peek at the front of the piston, then I remove the air filter for a peek down the pipe at the backside of the piston. Then I give a tug and a wiggle on each side of the crank to check for bad bearings. Most carbs need rebuilt anyways so I don't even try to run them.
 
He is wanting 400 and I would still haggle him if he was at 300..... So we ain't close really....he seems good guy so I may call him back and try to look at it in light and see what piston looks like...
Thanks stihl aficionados this site is sweet...
 
I have only not haggled once. Guy had a great condition MS362, he wanted $275 because that is what he had into a job he did and got the saw as payment. Haggling is a must! If he wants $400 I would offer $300 and see what happens. I always start a used saw or at least try to. I got a MS360 once for $80 because it would not start.
 
Rockjock and chainsaw Jim other than scoring is there anything particular I should be lookin for on the piston....there seemed to be a new air filer on the saw....
 
Oh and guys please don't strap me to the whipping post for asking this question and I don't want to get off topic, but to all of you guys that have ran 290, 361, and 044/440/441, would you say that there is truly a major cutting difference between 290 and 361.... I mainly just want a saw for the big and Knarly pieces so I think I may just be better off getting a 44 model...unless obviously I can get a 361 at a steal lol.....
 
If you offer more than you could sell the parts for you are taking a chance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Oh and guys please don't strap me to the whipping post for asking this question and I don't want to get off topic, but to all of you guys that have ran 290, 361, and 044/440/441, would you say that there is truly a major cutting difference between 290 and 361.... I mainly just want a saw for the big and Knarly pieces so I think I may just be better off getting a 44 model...unless obviously I can get a 361 at a steal lol.....
The 290 is a good saw, but they are worlds difference. The 361 is lighter, smoother, better anti vibe, more HP to weight. Homeowner/Farm Saw vs Pro saw. I love my 361, I have used an 029 for a day. I rebuilt for a friend and wanted to try it. Worlds difference.
 

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