Rebuilding Stihl 360

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Flywheel is off. Working on pulling everything else apart. Haven't gotten any further than that.

Do I need to hone the cylinder before new rings? My neighbor is a big car guy, he pulled the flywheel off for me and he was quizing me about the chainsaw stuff. Said I didn't know. Wanted to ask. He can do it all he just wondered.
 
What does the cylinder look like? I understand you want to have your saw running like new but to this point "running rough" doesn't warrent tearing it completely down as you have.
 
What does the cylinder look like? I understand you want to have your saw running like new but to this point "running rough" doesn't warrent tearing it completely down as you have.

Cylinder is fine. Of course I don't need to tear it down completely. If this place was about justifying actions and purchases then it may as well be shut down. :) I want to learn. I'm in college, bored and in the north country. Not much else to do. I might try to restore this more than I need since my grandpa gave it to me. Just looking for advice on how to tear it apart...
 
Yeah I was going to replace whatever necessary to tear it apart. I want to take the clutch off. The T27 is on it's way. What's the next step for removing the clutch?


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If you have an impact, leave the plug in the cylinder and pop it off with the impact. I've done dozens, nay, hundreds using an impact and have never damaged a single crank.
 
I've done a few saws now. Stihl and husqvarna and never used a piston stop removing or installing fw or clutches. impact tools.. even electric cordless are pretty good. I use a 3/8 d ewalt 12v for most...and bring out the air if it don't work.

And I agree with you. To understand better how thesaw works and operates and to gain a tone of knowledge its best to gets hands on. Take it apart and rebuild it...then not have it wwork and get frustrated for a few hours...then figure it out. Reading is one thing...doing it is another.

Have fun with it.
 
If you have an impact, leave the plug in the cylinder and pop it off with the impact. I've done dozens, nay, hundreds using an impact and have never damaged a single crank.

My neighbor used his impact to take it off for me. I pulled the cylinder off, but the flywheel is still on. What do I do? Is it possible to split the crankcase without the tool required? I know the seals can come out with a lot of patience. I'll just keep posting pictures since it's easiest for everyone to see where I'm at and what stuff to take off next. I'm reading with the service manual but since I'm going to try some stuff without their tools I'm guessing my process might be a little different.

The clutch came off very easy with the impact too.

Do I need to hone this cylinder before new rings? It's not damaged. I can post a picture if need-be. My neighbor is an auto instructor at a local school. He was curious as to why I don't hear much on here about honing. I did some researching and it seems that Nickel Silicon Carbide is the reason why honing isn't necessary. How will new rings seat? The rings wear to the cylinder?
 


Do I need to disassemble any more to thoroughly clean this? I'm considering repainting this saw/sanding clear coating. I want it to look new. I probably won't use it much and my grandpa gave it to me. Can I dunk this is something? What's the best way to clean it?
 
Dump the gas first off, then use purple power and hot water. Blow everything dry when its clean and make sure the tank does not have water in it
 
I did and I'm starting to clean/sand the plastic. I'm considering full restore on this saw and getting it powder coated (I have a contact). I have a 50cc and 70cc but this one is sentimental. My great uncle just passed away. I'm going to try and grab his 026 and possibly restore that one too. I'll need to split the crank and fully disassemble though.
 
My igintion module was completly caked in sawdust, there was some sort of terminal (don't know a lot about them) that looks like it was supposed to be bare and exposed but was not. I can attach a picture. I assume this should be cleaned quite thoroughly.
 
Drain out the fuel and oil. Wash off what you can, then when the spousal unit is not looking...throw it in the dishwasher.
 



How should I remove the flywheel now that I'm this far? Bolt the cylinder back on? Also, can I replace the oil seals without splitting the crank case? I'm thinking of getting down to that point then taking it to the local stihl dealer and seeing how much he'll charge me to remove them with his puller. If I don't need to split the crankcase for removing the seals how much further do I have to go and what do I do next?
 



How should I remove the flywheel now that I'm this far? Bolt the cylinder back on? Also, can I replace the oil seals without splitting the crank case? I'm thinking of getting down to that point then taking it to the local stihl dealer and seeing how much he'll charge me to remove them with his puller. If I don't need to split the crankcase for removing the seals how much further do I have to go and what do I do next?
You don't need to put the cylinder back on. Take off the nut (13mm?). The best way to do it is with a flywheel puller (about 25 bucks on eBay). If you don't want to buy the puller you can try it this way:

Put the nut on so it's flush with the end of the crankshaft. Hold the saw up by the flywheel and hit the crank/bolt with a hammer. This is best done with 2 people. I've had mixed results with this method. I bought a puller.

Once the flywheel is off, you can get to the seal. It looks like you're already down to the seal on the clutch side.
 
I used TSC Ford Light Gray for the clutch cover as my test. I have an oven that could bake these. Any temp or time I should use?
 
OK, where do I start..... NEVER use an impact to remove a clutch or flywheel. I know everyone as done it successfully, but once you see what happens when things go wrong, you'll never do it again. An impact on the clutch can easily shear the cast-in key on a flywheel. Some flywheels are over $100. An impact can twist the crankshaft in a minor way- remember that cranks are 3 pieces pressed together, then straightened prior to installation at the factory. I love impacts, but they have virtually no place on a saw tech's bench. Sooner or later bad repair practices will cause a failure- why chance it, do it right. Stihl & Husqvarna tech info show the use of hand tools on things attached to the crank for good reason. Chance are that the saw you're working on is either your livelihood or your job to repair- understand why its always smarter, faster, and cheaper to do it right.
 

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