Rebuilt 357XP problems

[Brian_42]

Should I try plugging one side of the loop on the bottom of my intake and run a hose from the open side to the open port on the cylinder? Feel like I'm grasping here... can't stand it when I can't figure something out...

 

[394xp]

Should I try plugging one side of the loop on the bottom of my intake and run a hose from the open side to the open port on the cylinder? Feel like I'm grasping here... can't stand it when I can't figure something out...

I think that should work

 

[Brian_42]

I think that should work

I really do appreciate all the input here, being a chainsaw nut, it is really great to have all this support. Thanks again guys, really appreciate it...
When I dive back into the saw, I'll post what happens.... right now, it's time for a drink, some popcorn, and a movie with the fam...

 

[brownbuttlover]

my 017 done the same thing,i replace the pump valve gasket in carb, an the fuel line,i thing maybe it was the fuel line, i noticed it was hard where it went to the carb

 

[teatersroad]

I had apart awhile ago and sure don't remember an impulse port on the cylinder - other that the one that is integral to the carb isolation block (as I believe you have shown). Some 357/359 Walbros had issues at idle. There is a husky tech bulletin that calls for them to be replaced with the ZAMA carb.

 

[Brian_42]

I had apart awhile ago and sure don't remember an impulse port on the cylinder - other that the one that is integral to the carb isolation block (as I believe you have shown). Some 357/359 Walbros had issues at idle. There is a husky tech bulletin that calls for them to be replaced with the ZAMA carb.

This isn't really an issue at idle, the saw will start and run for only a few seconds, not that it won't idle, it won't run....

 

[tree monkey]

plug the nipple on the cylinder. it is for the auto decomp system

 

[cityboy]

plug the nipple on the cylinder. it is for the auto decomp system

Yep, that's your problem. Some of the older 357xps had the auto decomp system, a hose ran from the nipple in your picture up to the side port in the cylinder where the decomp valve was located. I have one of the saws with this system, and I recently plugged it off because it developed a crack in the hose and I never really wanted it in the first place. I understand they removed this system on the later models, so that's probably why you didn't notice it on the old cylinder. Just put a short piece of vacuum hose on the nipple and plug the other end with anything convenient. That should solve your problem, then if you want to look for a factory part to seal off the nipple there's probably one available. What I used for mine was a short piece of vacuum hose and one of those 'goof plugs' that are used to plug irrigation line.

 

[272super]

After you plug the line see how it runs. It's going to run very bad with that open like. If you did a rebuild and did not do an air leak test,you are taking a big chance imo,especially with the 357/359. They were know for air leaks at the intake clamp and auto decomp. Air leak test it and you can be sure the saw is running at 100%. Cheap insurance.

 

[Brian_42]

So... after church today, plug the port, do a leak test, and move on from there... Thanks everyone for all the help. I'll post what what happens after I try this.
You guys rock.

 

[Brian_42]

Alright, plugged the port... No difference, will still fire up and stall, next step: leak test...

 

[Brian_42]

I do not have the special tools shown in the manual to do a leak test, are there any trade secrets to doing one in my garage without the special tools?

 

[Brian_42]

Okay, being a little frustrated with this, I went out to do a little trouble shooting... I noticed the Zama carb from my 351 (parts saw - completely unassembled) looked very much like the Walbro on my 357... So I pulled the carb and the first thing I noticed was the makeshift gasket someone put between the carb and intake, also it completly blocked the impulse hole at the bottome of the carb. I already had the Zama carb with the air-cleaner assy. and throttle linkage/choke assembled, so I installed the Zama from my 351 on the 357. The saw started and idled as it should right away, but seemed to die off when hitting anything past mid range rpms, I'm assuming due to the lack of fuel delivery from the 351 carb. Anyhow, I reinstalled the Walbro, minus the defective gasket, the saw started and ran great, idled and reved as it should, for about 20 seconds, then died and wouldn't start again. I have read some threads along the line of the defective Walbro carb, some with the link to the service notice. I'm considering calling and getting a price on the Zama replacement from my local saw shop, trying that, and if that doesn't work, handing the saw over to them along with my troubles...

 

[SkippyKtm]

I'll help ya out, I've been there with all those problems you describe! My 357 purrs like a kitten... it transformed from one of the worst running saws I've ever owned, into the very best.
You need to get rid of the remains of the auto decomp, you'll need to plug off the hole where the lower fitting is (the fitting on this saw hasn't been plugged, these are pictures of a parts saw I have. You can see the fitting that needs to get plugged just below the upper handle AV spring):
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/PICT6647.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

You can just use a bolt with the appropriate sized thread.

If you have a Walbro HD199A or B You'll need to get rid of it and replace with a zama C3 series carburetor, Here's a link detailing this:

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/114326.htm
Good luck!

 

[parrisw]

Thanks Steve,
I just noticed what looks like place for a hose on the cylinder on the compression release side... with no hose....???? The cylinder I pulled did not have that????? I think this may be my issue, advice on what to do with this, or what this is?

Get rid of all the auto decomp crap, they gave major problems. Can you not run just one solid line for the impluse? The lest amount of connections the better.

 

[Brian_42]

I'll help ya out, I've been there with all those problems you describe! My 357 purrs like a kitten... it transformed from one of the worst running saws I've ever owned, into the very best.
You need to get rid of the remains of the auto decomp, you'll need to plug off the hole where the lower fitting is (the fitting on this saw hasn't been plugged, these are pictures of a parts saw I have. You can see the fitting that needs to get plugged just below the upper handle AV spring):


You can just use a bolt with the appropriate sized thread.

If you have a Walbro HD199A or B You'll need to get rid of it and replace with a zama C3 series carburetor, Here's a link detailing this:

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/114326.htm
Good luck!

Well, not being someone that has the ability to leave something alone, I continued to mess with it today, I grabbed the Zama from the 351 and cut/filed off the limiter tabs on the carb adjusts and re-installed it on my 357, with a little tuning, the saw idles and revs great. So, being in complete agreement with you, the Walbro is junk, and the correct way to fix the auto-comp would be to plug it with a bolt... For right now, I think I'm going to call the saw-shop in the morning, get the correct Zama ordered, and start cutting....
Again,
many thanks to everyone that helped guide me through this, I'm finding this site and all the members to be a great asset.

 

[Brian_42]

Just to report, after calling the saw shop, and pricing on ebay, picked up the correct Zama for $50 less on ebay, arrived yesterday, installed this morning. The saw started on the first pull, idled, and reved like a new saw (good: since most of it is...). Going to hit the woods later this morning (I have two teens at swim practice that need to be picked up in about an hour), then hook up the trailer, load the saws in the back of the car, and hit the woods. I'm modifying a Husky 61 (another thread), and I'll do a head to head with the 357XP, and see how they compare, power to weight. The 61 (in process) has a 268XP top end on it, should prove to be beast when finished... I'll report back how the 357XP does on the woods today.

Thanks again for all the great advice, don't know what I'd do without you guys and this site.

 

[sunfish]

Just to report, after calling the saw shop, and pricing on ebay, picked up the correct Zama for $50 less on ebay, arrived yesterday, installed this morning. The saw started on the first pull, idled, and reved like a new saw (good: since most of it is...). Going to hit the woods later this morning (I have two teens at swim practice that need to be picked up in about an hour), then hook up the trailer, load the saws in the back of the car, and hit the woods. I'm modifying a Husky 61 (another thread), and I'll do a head to head with the 357XP, and see how they compare, power to weight. The 61 (in process) has a 268XP top end on it, should prove to be beast when finished... I'll report back how the 357XP does on the woods today.

Thanks again for all the great advice, don't know what I'd do without you guys and this site.

Good to hear it's runnin right. 357 is a great firewood saw!

I've bought 2 of those ebay Zama carbs, can't beat the price. Put one on a ported 346 and have a back-up for my 357xp, just in case. Might get another for the other 346xp.

 

[SawTroll]

Get rid of all the auto decomp crap, they gave major problems. Can you not run just one solid line for the impluse? The lest amount of connections the better.

It is not a coincidence that Husky dropped the auto decomp, and used Zama carbs in place of the Walbro 190 series, on the late production saws.......

 

[Brian_42]

I spent a few hours this afternoon working on a big down'd maple at a friend's farm, the 357XP is, by far, my favorite saw now. The saw cut with great power, started easy, and idled exactly as it should have. What an awesome saw, thanks again for all the great advice working through this. I have the auto-decomp plugged with a hose right now, I'll replace with an allen bolt later, right now, I think I'm planning my next trip back to the farm to work some more on the maple... I'll have to break out my 181SE for a big part of this monster, some of it my 32" bar won't be large enough...

View attachment 205019